It’s been 4 years since I have been able to get back to Nor Cal to taste. What used to be annual trip took a back seat, but I finally got some time to make it work, and so for the past week I have been hitting some of my favorite stops with a small crew. Sean Kennedy joined me, as well as a few other folks who are important in my life and also enjoy wine.
It’s customary for me to start in Santa Cruz and then finish in Napa/Sonoma. This year I built it the same way, starting with Bradley at BIG BASIN on Tuesday. We then went to RHYS and saw Kevin and Jeff on Wednesday. For Thursday, we split the day CARLISLE and Mike O in the morning, then finishing with Jeff at PISONI/LUCIA in the afternoon. For Friday, we got cracking early in Napa, meeting with Will for RIVERS MARIE and MENDING WALL, then finishing in the afternoon with Jamie and Joanna at KUTCH. Finally on Saturday, we ended with the good portion of the day at COPAIN, tasting with Wells. Along this tour, we had Cary Wun, Mike Dildine and Alan Rath join us at a few stops, along with Brian Tuite who also dined with on Friday evening at his crib in Forestville.
I will attempt to build this report in day sequence, adding the visits and narrative/TNs. I’ll post some photos, some of wines/vines and also more importantly of people, the people in this hobby that I appreciate and respect. I welcome comments to the post here and I appreciate you reading my perspective .FWIW, I won’t get to all this in one post so please check back if you want to read about the days, as I am able to build them here.
Tuesday–BIG BASIN. We met with Bradley Brown, who some of you know as the owner and winemaker. I have tasted with Bradley a handful of times in the past few years–some at his winery, some here at the house over dinner. I have got to know him, his energy for evolving and trying to create change in his approach, most notable in the past few years. Already committed to organic farming, I have also seen the wines recently be more to my liking, as the size and weight of the wines has become more focused and elegant, with balance. His approach to lessening new oak, of re-aligning acidity and alcohol. For me, the wines are improving and some of them are excellent in my palate lane. He continues to evolve each vintage and I see and heard that evolution in our recent visit. Below are some of my impressions, mostly finished wines from bottle but I did post a few barrel notes, to give some props to where I saw some barrels really singing. Bradley, I appreciate your passion, as you dial in your Santa Cruz pinots, as well as your rhones. Keep going, man.
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2012 Big Basin Vineyards Pinot Noir Alfaro Family Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains (7/23/2017)
Made with about 40% whole cluster, 13% ABV. Spicy/lightly stemmy aromatic, which also gives it a perfumey note. Cranberry and dark cherry. Juicy with plenty of structure to let the wine evolve further. -
2013 Big Basin Vineyards Grenache/Syrah/Mourvedre Gabilan Mountain - USA, California, Central Coast, Monterey County (7/23/2017)
49% G, 27% S, 24% M. Juicy, some meatiness, dark cherry and raspberry, good acidity and no heat (which was showing on the 13 Grizzley we tasted just prior). I like the juicy quality of the wine here, along with a light brushing of minerality. -
2013 Big Basin Vineyards Grizzly - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains (7/23/2017)
Due to timing, this got picked after a heat spike so that extra push of ripeness reflects in the wine. For me, I didn’t care for that impact in this wine. This bottle showed a light maple quality, some heat on the nose and a candied raspberry. Some will like this, I just found it a little big for my tastes. -
2014 Big Basin Vineyards Chardonnay Coastview Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Monterey County (7/23/2017)
Crushed rock aromatic with lemon peel, lime, anise and a bitter-like tangerine note. Anise in the finish. -
2014 Big Basin Vineyards Pinot Noir Alfaro Family Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains (7/23/2017)
Made with 100% whole cluster, 13.2% ABV. Forest floor/pine aromatic, and the stems give influence to the palate through an herbal note. Cherry is the core here, and tasting this next to the 2012, it comes off riper. There is plenty of structure here that is burying some of that fruit so this needs more time. -
2014 Big Basin Vineyards Pinot Noir Coastview Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Monterey County (7/23/2017)
12.8% ABV. Juicy, red/black cherry, minerality and a good dose of structure in the finish. This is tight and will deserve some time to soften. -
2014 Big Basin Vineyards Roussanne Homestead Block - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains (7/23/2017)
Lime, melon and light touch of vanilla bean. In tasting this with Bradley, he also added that he gets a gardenia/white flower in this wine, which comes from a small plot on the lowest part of the estate hill. -
2015 Big Basin Vineyards Altitude 2292 Coastview Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Monterey County (7/23/2017)
This is a brand new wine for Bradley, something I believe could be a flagship for the winery. It’s a 5 Bdx blend, made with 25% new wood and grown at 2200 feet on Coastview. Light bdx aromatic, with cherry, light tobacco leaf, cedar. I enjoyed this. -
2016 Big Basin Vineyards Pinot Noir Lester Family Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains (7/23/2017)
I don’t usually put barrel samples into CT but I believe this is close to a composite of what the wine will be so I will go ahead with my TN. This sample was excellent. A blue/red mix, showing a lovely balance with juicy acidity that complements the fruit. Ends with some mineral and tannin. Should this expression hold up once under cork, this will be excellent. -
2016 Big Basin Vineyards Syrah Coastview Vineyard - USA, California, Central Coast, Monterey County (7/23/2017)
Barrel sample, and this really struck me as delicious, so I am going to drop a TN for it here. Purple/blue fruit (reminding me of Copain Brosseau), dried potpourri, great acidity, length. Just a beautiful sample and I look to see if Bradley can get this under cork when he bottles. Really good.
Posted from CellarTracker
And finally, a couple cool photos.



Wednesday–RHYS. I always enjoy this stop, one I have done several times, getting to know Jeff and Kevin over the years. One thing about Rhys that governs my perception–these guys bust their ass to keep learning and investing in their pathway. You can see the intensity in Jeff’s comments as he discussed the wines, as well as the focus of Kevin. Their both excellent to taste with because I always learn something from them about pinot noir, about their views on grape. While it’s easy to throw a dart at them that the wines are stemmy, or that their approach is this or that, I will tell you this is not the case. These guys flex and realize a rigid approach doesn’t work, so you will see in my notes some of the data on whole cluster, which may not be what you think. Yes, lots of whole cluster in the Home, but I could not sense it. Or, the Alpine which is less than 20%. These guys keep pushing their vision and driving ahead, I dig it.
Our visit was a tasting of all the 2015s, as well as a few additional wines for perspective. In total, to see all the 2015s and line them up side by side (like Family Farm and Home, or, the Bearwallow pinot plots). I really appreciate Kevin and Jeff, and thank them for letting us see the craft and such a complete way.
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2012 Rhys Pinot Noir Alpine Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains (7/23/2017)
Floral and perfumey, really cool aromatic. The palate is generous with strawberry, and I want to say jammy, but that seems to send a connotation to some that the wine is sweet or cloying, but it was neither of these in the glass. Medium weight, spicy finish. Minerality here, light creamy and after 5 years is developing very well. My notes have a star next to them, as did the 2015 Alpine, and so I now find myself landing with finding a new appreciation for Alpine, as I already have with 'Shoe. Terrific PN here, the 2012 is excellent. -
2014 Rhys Syrah Horseshoe Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains (7/23/2017)
Light incense, dried potpourri (which suggest to me stem inclusion, yet my notes don’t have the %). Lots of tannin and grip here, with purple flower and game. This should be age-worthy and a vintage of 'Shoe to track over time. -
2015 Rhys Chardonnay - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley (7/23/2017)
12.5% ABV, declassed Bearwallow. Light pineapple, lemon, touch of vanilla, spicy yellow apple and a tangy finish. Approachable now. -
2015 Rhys Chardonnay Alpine Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains (7/23/2017)
Tasted next to the 2015 'Shoe Chard, and while I liked that wine a lot, I really dug this Alpine–my notes have a big star next to it. Pineapple, a touch creamy, light lemon curd with a great depth and intense finish. There is a sexy quality to this vintage. Excellent. -
2015 Rhys Chardonnay Bearwallow Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley (7/23/2017)
After tasting the 2015 AV Chard right before this (which is essentially declassed Bearwallow), I can see the quality difference in this wine. As opposed to the declassed AV Chard, this wine shows more intensity through a lemony/citrus acidity. Green apple/pippin with a long finish. And FWIW, I did not perceive any wood/oak tones here. I know some of us around these parts have debated oak/wood perceptions in the Rhys chards so I offer this final comment to add to that debate. -
2015 Rhys Chardonnay Horseshoe Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains (7/23/2017)
Minerality and an intense lemony cut. What intrigues me about this vintage of Shoe Chard is the depth and intensity that is here, yet the wine is neither heavy or dense. Just a real power in a leaner frame that I really dug. -
2015 Rhys Pinot Noir Alpine Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains (7/23/2017)
Just under 20% whole cluster. Aromatics have a lifted, spicy quality–terrific. This wine has a distinct purity, with beautiful depth, length and balance–all of this just dialed in. My notes has a big star next to the wine, along with the last word being ‘gorgeous’. Jeff nailed this wine in 2015. -
2015 Rhys Pinot Noir Anderson Valley - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley (7/23/2017)
This is the AV cuvee, which I believe (like the AV Chard) is declassed Bear PN. Pine needle, herbal and juicy. Cherry and blood orange flavors (I credit the blood orange reference to Jeff Brinkman who made the remark during the tasting). It finishes with black cherry note, and some good tannin. -
2015 Rhys Pinot Noir Bearwallow Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley (7/23/2017)
This is 5% new oak, totally destemmed. Juicy, almost plush, with a spicy component, gamy and a dark cherry finish. My notes also say blue fruit, which given the proximity to Kiser, I’d expect some blue tones here, too. -
2015 Rhys Pinot Noir Home Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay (7/23/2017)
100% whole cluster and what caught my attention is that the wine has integrated the stems, meaning I didn’t sense anything herbal. Pretty cool. Dark cherry, some strawberry but this is darker and brooding than the Family Farm, which is essentially adjacent to Home. Plenty of complexity here, depth, touch of incense, finishing with a black cherry, spice and tannin. Very good version of Home, for sure. -
2015 Rhys Pinot Noir Horseshoe Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains (7/23/2017)
This is fully destemmed in 2015, yet it does have a cool, sage-like note in the aromatic. And, I am going to be called crazy for saying this, but when I wrote notes in a tasting, I jot down honestly what comes through my senses. In this instance, my notes say an aromatic of chicken soup. So, maybe what I was digging on was the savory quality of that aroma, and yet there are no stems here. Just a captivating aromatic whatever you take away from my perceptions here. This is juicy, approachable with crunchy red fruits of raspberry and light watermelon and just perfumey. Finishes juicy. This is a rad bottle of 'Shoe that will be something cool to try again when released. -
2015 Rhys Pinot Noir Porcupine Hill - USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley (7/23/2017)
Made like the 2015 Bearwallow, so this is destemmed and just 5% new wood. This is approachable now, with dark cherry and moderate complexity. There is some minerality here. My notes have a question mark abut the wine’s development, meaning is the wine going to need more time to show added complexity? At this stage, I prefer the 2015 Bear better but we’ll see with time. I plan to buy the 2015 Porkie, as I want to see where the wine heads. -
2015 Rhys Pinot Noir San Mateo County - USA, California, San Francisco Bay, San Mateo County (7/23/2017)
33% whole cluster, a blend of declassed Family Farm and 'Shoe. Smoky note in the aromatic, along with a nicely open-knitted texture. Round, juicy. Some redder tones of strawberry and a soily/loam note in the finish. I found this to be quite drinkable at this stage.
Posted from CellarTracker
As for a few photos…



For the remainder of the trip, please check back over the next few days, as more to come…



