No more Jubilee: Hugel takes terroir turn over brand

WINE TALK
1

After visiting Trimbach on Monday morning 5 October - and tasting their first ever terroir named wine - I went to Hugel and discovered that Jubilee is no more.

Starting with the 2010 vintage, this wine made from vines grown on the grand cru Schoenenbourg will be called simply Riesling Grossi Laüe.

Interestingly, the “new” label resembles very much 1950s era labels used by the domain, but there is a key difference: back in 1953 for example, there was no mention of terroir.

Starting in 2010, it is all about terroir as the words Grossi Laüe in Alsatian mean grand terroir. You can read more about all that on this page: http://www.wine-chronicles.com/blog/hugel-brands-terroir/

But here some tasting notes from my visit.

2008 Hugel et Fils Riesling Jubilee – France, Alsace
To me, not quite as concentrated as the Clos Sainte Hune tasted earlier that day, but a premium brand Riesling indeed, with complex aromatics of kiwi, lime, wet stone and a fine texture on the pure and pristine palate, leading to a long and bright if still somewhat steely (which is normal) finish. With 12% alcohol and three grams of residual sugar, an excellent expression of grand cru Riesling! (93 pts.)

2009 Hugel et Fils Riesling Jubilee – France, Alsace
The nose – when compared to the 2008 – seems almost out of focus. But the palate is full of stone fruit, more yellow than white, and very juicy and rich. “I could get drunk on this wine,” remarked Jean Frederic. And why not? It is sheer pleasure, with 13.5% alcohol and nearly 8 grams of residual sugar. (91 pts.)

2010 Hugel et Fils Riesling Jubilee, er actually, Riesling Grossi Laüe – France, Alsace
Like a combination of 2008 and 2009, this 2010 was harvested at 14% potential alcohol, but there seems to be more relative acidity and thus more zing than in 2009 even if nearly 7 grams of residual sugar. Wet stone dominates here, rather than stone fruit, which is more ripe and white than yellow. I prefer it to 2009, and like its 2008 qualities, although the 2008 may in the longer run prove superior. Full body and long finish. (92 pts.)

2

Will this be the case for their entire Jubilee series, including Gewurtz and even Pinot Noir?
How about their “S” which came from the Sporen? Actually, I believe one year, before the Alsace AOC Grand Cru rules came on-line, they actually had a 1990 “Sporen,” a blend of varieties from the grand cru.

3

How does changing from one non-vineyard name to a different non-vineyard name mean they are taking terroir over brand? Sounds like a different brand name to me.

4

I was at Hugel two days ago !! Had a good tasting. For some reason the above fact was not mentioned during our tasting which went for almost an hour.
Ps: also managed to squeeze a tasting at Paul Blanck and Weinbach.

5

Perhaps, but a “terroir” brand name change and significant at that. I am not sure that customers will even get the new name as a new brand, given its authentic Alsatian name, complete with an umlaut.

6

I am not certain about the other Jubilee series, Eric.

7

Dear Eric,

Just checked with Etienne Hugel and he sent me a message this morning indicating indeed that the last Jubilee vintage is 2009, and that from 2010 they all become “Grossi Laüe”, for all 4 varietals.

8

So they will think it’s a vineyard name? I think you are giving Hugel way too much credit for this name change.

9

Well, my goal was not to give them “credit” but rather to point out an important stress on terroir, even if they do not put the specific vineyard name on the front, they stress terroir. But from a commercial standpoint, I am not sure that consumers will prefer this to Jubilee. Can you pronounce Grossi Laüe? [shock.gif]

10

Nope. And I can pronounce Grosses Gewachs!

11

This strikes me as a distinction without a difference. On top of that, it doesn’t seem to forward the cause of simplifying or clarifying what style of wine come inside a bottle from Alsace.

12

Well then. Give them a call and tell them that (Tel: +33 (0)3 89 47 92 15) :slight_smile: champagne.gif

13

Is that pronounced the same as Grosses Gewächs? neener

14

Yes, as long as I am on a keyboard that supports umlauts.

15

I know. I have to find one and copy it.

16

May be Hugel is taking a cue from Marcel Deiss

17

Please God, no.

18

Maybe Deiss is helping Hugel petition for an AOC of its own for this new brand.

We need further cheapening of the Alsace AOC requirements and integrity…since Alsace wines are already so easy to sell in the US. [swearing.gif]