It’s not always the case, but last weekend was full of winners.
Julien Pilon - Les Maisons de Victor - St.Peray -2021
Like last year’s, this has hazelnut and lemon on the nose, with the same on the attack plus some acacia, then some waxy but refined honey, then a long but crisp finish. Not quite as good as his Lône, but at half the price no quibbles, as this is delicious. Great value at 22€. 91 pts
La Louvière White Pessac-Léognan 2017
Apple and pear aromas, with spring flowers and vanilla, then a crisp, fresh attack of orchard fruits and lemon, morphing into something more honeyed midpalate, with grapefruit and gooseberry just before the long finish. Very promising, it can be enjoyed now if you prefer fresh, young fruit, but this will become more complex and interesting in a few more years. Great value again at 23 euros. This is my go-to wine when I feel the need for a Bordeaux white and it seldom disappoints. 92 pts
Clos du Jaugueyron - Perrain - Margaux 2014
This is a one-off cuvée only made in 2014. It was entirely oak-free, since they didn’t have enough barrels for the whole harvest (I think), so made in their cement vats. Lovely nose of rose hip, spring flowers, forest fruits and cream, then a very fresh but winsome combination of wild strawberry and red cherry at first; broadening out into a blackcurrant middle section and finishing with a typically dusty, elegant Margaux finale. I wasn’t a fan of the first bottle I tried, but this was splendid and at 31 euros, a very good buy since I’m not sure it’s less good than the top wine. 93 pts
Clos du Marquis - St.Julien - 2008
Like the 06 this has silky notes of blackcurrant and plum, then a little spicy blackberry, and wafts of dark raspberry, with wild strawberry in the finish. Not quite as good as the 06 but very enjoyable, another winning CDM. 92 pts
Poujeaux - Moulis 2000
I wasn’t over-impressed by this a few years ago, but it has really improved since. Plums, roses and dark cherries on the nose, then a deliciously multi-layered mouthful, with waves of plum, dark cherry, dark raspberry and blackcurrant. Still very well-rounded and crisp, but the big change is the finish, much longer and more persistent than before, simply beautiful. Excellent value, this can still be found for about 30-35 euros a bottle at auction. Crazy when you think about it. 94 pts