New Zealand Wine & Champagne Travelogue: The (Mis)Adventures of Marybeth and Warren

[Warren_Taranow]

Haven’t posted in a while. Not exactly the trip we planned.

We booked an 18-day South Island NZ tour a year ago. Small ship, helicopters, fixed wing flights, kayaking into places few people ever see. Left home on a Sunday. Four flights. Over 40 hours door to door. Landed in Christchurch… and Marybeth tested positive for COVID.

With eight couples heading into tight quarters the next morning, we had no choice but to cancel. Six hours in NZ urgent care for documentation, optimistically hoping insurance might care. Then pivoted to convalescence mode.

We escaped to Akaroa. No rental cars available anywhere in Christchurch. None. Hotels and house rentals essentially sold out in peak season. Pure luck — someone canceled an apartment in Akaroa right as I was refreshing listings. We had to pay for a ride there because there were literally no cars to rent in the entire city.

Several days later, when she was finally well enough to go out to dinner, we had a terrific meal at Caldera Winery above Akaroa. Stunning setting. I ordered a flight of their whites, all very nice and well made.

That’s the winery and restaurant in the background of this photo

And then I couldn’t resist a 2015 Cristal at a very reasonable restaurant price.

First experience with the 2015. I’ve generally found young Cristal to lean heavily into lemon citrus, but this bottle was much more pear-driven. The fruit felt rounder and more open than I expected. I didn’t notice the vegetal or green notes I’ve encountered in some 2015 Champagnes. I haven’t cellared any 2015 Cristal and probably won’t unless I stumble across a deal, but this was impressive.

I’m about a week behind on posting. After the initial pivot, the lodging challenges continued. Everywhere we thought we might go was essentially sold out. We’re piecing it together and somehow managing to salvage a memorable trip.

We eventually returned to Christchurch when a rental car finally became available. One. A subcompact. They charged me $4k for ten days. Ouch. We had a pre-arranged Uber to get us there, but they cancelled at the last minute, and no other drivers would accept the 90 minute drive. We managed to find a transport company with a driver willing to come and get us (for another small fortune).

Not the trip we envisioned, but we’re rolling with the punches, even when they kept on coming. We can take a licking and keep on ticking. Or as I prefer to say, take a bucking…
(and keep on “trucking”…I know where your dirty minds were going!)

Some of the accommodations have been… beyond rustic. “Glamping” would be a generous description.

More to come.

[Nick_Christie]

Ooof. Stay safe you crazy kids . This is quite the journey.

[ky1em1ttskus]

Thank the gods for small miracles — at least you found some Champagne!

[Warren_Taranow]

Later on in Akaroa, we were able to try some other New Zealand producers. Black Estate Pét-Nat Damsteep, a sparkler blend of Pinot Noir and Riesling. Honeyed amber colored, dry and crisp. Perfect for a simple meal.

Back at Christchurch for a night. We ate at another nice restaurant. They had 2008 Comtes on the list, but after speaking to the sommelier, we decided “while in Rome” and ordered another New Zealand sparkler, this one the well-regarded Quartz Reef Methode Traditionelle Blanc de Blancs. Rich, not showing as much brioche as I’d have expected given the time on the lees. For me, the bead was a bit aggressive. I liked it but would never mistaken it for Champagne.

Next up, Christchurch → Castle Hill / Kura Tawhiti → Arthur’s Pass → Otira

[Ben_M_a_n_d_l_e_r]

We are also in New Zealand right now, wrapping up 2 weeks in the South Island and about to head home. I know you said you’re about a week behind on posting, but if you’re still on your adventures, I figured I would let you know our best experiences:

Food: Kika (Wanaka), The Sherwood (Queenstown), Greystone Winery (North Canterbury). Ditto in Te Anau was much more casual but a surprisingly excellent find, and Milford Road Merchant in Te Anau and Fairlie Bakehouse in Fairlie gave us the best pies.

Wineries: Prophet’s Rock (Bendigo), The Bone Line (North Canterbury). Also tasted broadly across producers at The Winery in Queenstown, which was a fun time. Mon Cheval Le Char, Stewart Town The Bounder, and Bell Hill were my favorite Pinots of the trip.

We are staying with friends in Christchurch for the last portion of the trip and have been eating and drinking very well (and, for Californians on vacation, very inexpensively).

I hope the rest of your trip has been and continues to be a great success despite the inauspicious start!

[Warren_Taranow]

Thanks, Ben.

We’re leaving Wānaka this morning and heading to Mt Cook Village, then on to Queenstown, and eventually up to Russell on the North Island. We had a great dinner at Kika two nights ago and at Bistro Gentil last night. We already have a reservation at Sherwood for our last night in Queenstown.

Thanks again for all the recommendations. I’ll look them over. Safe travels,
Warren

[Ben_M_a_n_d_l_e_r]

Sherwood was probably my favorite of the places we went. My wife was visibly swooning over the potatoes.

[Phil_T_r_o_t_t_e_r]

@Warren_Taranow

Marybeth tested positive for COVID

Crazy! Well done rolling with the punches Warren! I hope Marybeth is fully recovered with no lingering effects.

I wish you reap all good karma that will come as compensation for these misadventures!

[Warren_Taranow]

From Christchurch, we took our wildly overpriced subcompact west toward Hokitika and the Hokitika Gorge. The closest place we could find was about 30 minutes from town. A “deluxe” stay with cement floors and plywood walls. On the plus side, there was hot water.

Hokitika itself has a beautiful beach, mountains rising in the background. Despite the town being fully booked, the beach was nearly empty, which made for long, quiet walks. The town has a bit of a low-end tourist shop vibe, but the setting more than makes up for it.

At dinner I had a fermented alcoholic ginger beer that was genuinely refreshing and thirst-quenching. I liked it a lot. I followed that with a mini bottle of Deutz Marlborough Cuvée NV — the NZ partnership between Deutz in Champagne and a Marlborough producer. Pinot/Chardonnay blend. A little riper and less mineral than Deutz from Aÿ, of course, but honestly quite good. Easy to drink and well made.

The next day we hiked Hokitika Gorge — a beautiful walk through temperate rainforest, crossing several suspension footbridges over that unreal blue water colored by glacial mineral runoff. The color looks filtered, but it isn’t.

The gorge was one of those places that makes all the logistical challenges worthwhile.

Next stops: Franz Josef village, Lake Matheson, Haast, Wanaka, Mt. Cook Village, and Queenstown, where we are now, before heading north to Russell on the North Island.

More New Zealand photos, wines, and champagne to follow.

If you want to check out a NZ travel post with much better stories and photos than mine, check this out from @MadsW. I hadn’t seen it until now, and it puts mine to shame.

[S1m0n_b]

Don’t know if your schedule allows, but I loved the Gibbston valley region near Wanaka. Several good wineries on a mountain biking path. Our favorite pinot was Mt. Edwards Winery and favorite sparkling was Peregrine, though we really barely scratched the surface of the region.

[Warren_Taranow]

Funny you should mention that. I’m typing this from a beautiful home we rented on a vineyard in the hills of Gibbston. It’s just up the road from Peregrine; I passed their sign yesterday. I believe this place was once the home of the owners of Gibbston Back Road Winery. Not a bad setting to regroup.

[DanPOB]

While you are in Queenstown, a visit to Chard Farm is well worth it; great Pinots (top to bottom) , classically made Chardonnay, and very fine representation of southern hemisphere Riesling.

[Rauno_E_NZ]

Oh dear! I do hope your luck turns, though good on you guys for making the best of it. Glad you’re getting some great experiences in amongst the frustration. Are you passing through Wellington?

[Scott_Watkins]

Hope the rest of your trip is fantastic Warren! One of my favorite memories in NZ many years ago was the world Buskers festival they have in Christchurch every year.

[Warren_Taranow]

No, not this trip. The only place we have a planned stay on the North Island is Russell. Since we had originally planned an active adventure on the South Island, we opted for a quiet week on the beach at the end. We did make room for a night for dinner with @brodie_thomson and Raz, and will spend a day in Auckland with them. Many thanks to him for helping me navigate the emergent change of plans. His advice has been priceless.
Are you in Wellington?
Cheers,
Warren

[MadsW]

@Warren_Taranow

check this out from @MadsW

I think those pics are from @bradkaplan but they’re great! I saw your posts Warren— I could imagine NZ being a difficult place to book things if out of luck like your start. But hey the weather looks amazing and you’re with, taking a wild guess here, your favorite travel companion. Looks pretty amazing. And you’ll get to see Brodie later! Did I ever mention I want to drink like him when I grow up?

[Warren_Taranow]

@MadsW

taking a wild guess here, your favorite travel companion

Yes, something I’m grateful for every day.

[Warren_Taranow]

@MadsW

I think those pics are from @bradkaplan

You’re right! @bradkaplan hijacked your thread with more awesome notes and photos!

[Warren_Taranow]

After Hokitika, we drove to Franz Josef for lunch. We shared another bottle of Deutz Marlborough, leaving half of it for the grateful server.

We then drove to and hiked around Okarito Lagoon for a short walk and bird watching.

then on to `Lake Matheson for another hike.

We stayed in a beautifully equipped small home in Haast.

At dinner, I broke down and ordered a bottle of Champagne instead of going local.
The basic Billecart-Salmon Brut (and the next day an André Clouet Brut) were solid reminders that either we’ve conditioned our palates to prefer sparkling wine from Champagne over everything else, or that when it comes to sparkling wine, Champagne is simply hard to beat. If you’ve followed me here, you know my opinion on the subject (Champagne rules!).

Up next: Wañaka, then Mt Cook Village

`

[Charles_Weiss]

Nice Oystercatcher photo! We love seeing them on Cape Cod (MA) in the summer, and were delighted to see a pair on Robben Island (where Nelson Mandela was in prison for many years) off Capetown.

If you have the opportunity to have a Quartz Reef Pinot, suggest you take it. Also Valli.