Decades ago, I spent a good bit of time in NOLA for business. I enjoyed many great restaurants but this was my first real tourist experience…and it was a blast despite a good bit of rain. We got and AirBnB in the Warehouse District that was well situated but not recommendable.
Mostly we just hung out in and walked around the neighborhoods. Audubon Park was a great walk as was the sculpture garden at the art museum.
We hit up Bacchanal Wine a few times - once for a tasting and the others for some fine music. The wine selection is interesting. You just need to get over the steep markups since the music is basically free. Nearby, Parleaux Beer Lab is good. An antique shop called Lucullus was also diverting.
Fritzel’s on Bourbon Street is kind of cliched but also a respite from the chaos outside. One drink minimum and the jazz is just good enough.
Near our apartment, Keife and Co is an excellent wine shop. We picked up a couple of bottles to fill in gaps. Knowledgeable folks who helped us with other ideas. Some guy was busy buying Rayas and Coche while we were chatting.
Breakfasts were mostly coffee. Mammoth Espresso and The French Truck were impressive. One morning, the wait at Willa Jean was 90 minutes. We walked to the next corner and had a surprisingly good breakfast at the unfortunately named District All Day Delicious.
Lunches:
Leah’s - while waiting for our friends to arrive. Rice & Beans and Gumbo at this airport offshoot of Dooky Chase was really good.
Liuzza’s at the Track is all it’s touted to be. Oozing with local character. All the classics seemed to have a slight twist. Enjoyed everything.
Turkey & the Wolf - the line outside probably goes all afternoon. Adventurous chow and the collard melt is the real deal.
Domilise’s is the only place I go to every visit. The shrimp sandwich is perfect as is the accompanying Barq’s. First time trying other pi boys. The catfish and oyster were great. Roast beef tasted great but was a bit dry. Love this place and the women who work there.
Cafe Reconcile has such a great mission that it would be worth supporting even if the food isn’t great - but it is. Turkey necks, fried chicken, fried catfish, rice n beans and phenomenal collards.
Dinners:
Maypop really impressed. Dynamic flavors. Every dish was exciting. A 2012 Von Othegraven Riesling Altenberg Kabinett was a great bring along. We gave to som a taste of this and our 2016 Analemma Blanc de Noirs. She waived one of the $25 corkage fees.
Brigtsen’s wanted to get here because I suspect they will retire any day. Excellent but this was the start of an unfortunate trend of entrees coming out too soon - even while still eating our first course. We ordered a Raul Perez Atlaier off their list and paid $25 corkage for our 2011 Edmunds Saint John Syrah Fenaughty Vineyard that was very good of a bit past its apogee.
Dooky Chase this was kind of a bucket list thing. Some very good food (fried chicken) but more about the experience. Love the art work. We brought a Vigoble du Reveur Riesling and 2019 Ridge Pinot Noir Corralitos (terrific) at $25 each corkage.
Cane and Table this was like the Caribbean version of Maypop. Exciting dishes and flavors. Best known for cocktails which were great. We brought a fine 2016 Rolly Gassman Gewurtzraminer (picked up at Keife) and a fine 2006 Hermanos Pecina Rioja Vendimia Seleccionada. We got friendly with the GM (& gave her tastes). She charged us $25 corkage total even tho we also opened a half bottle of Durban Beaume de Venise (also from Keife).
Cochon this Donald Link spot is hitting on all cylinders. Pork rules but plenty of other great stuff. We ordered a 2018 Fritz Haag Riesling Trocken and brought a 2018 Andrew Rich Sojeau Vineyard Willamette Pinot ($25 corkage).
Commander’s Palace is certainly on the short list of America’s best restaurants. The already lavish setting is amped up at holiday season. For was excellent though there were a few dishes that were over salted. The wine list is fabulous - older vintages and very reasonable prices. We selected a very good 2014 San Salvatore Pian di Stio Fiano. The Somm suggested a 2019 Tyrell’s Hunter Valley Semillon that checked many of our requested boxes but was too light. Then we grabbed a 2012 Allemand Cornas Reynard. It was magnificent but not quite ready.
Cocktail note - the GM at Cane and Table sent us to Manolito a half block away. This small but serious cocktail lounge pays tribute to a Havana cocktail legend. Same owner has another excellent place called Jewel of the South.
Overall, it was a fun-filled fabulous time in this unique, party-all-the-time City. Like so many other places, homelessness is surging.