Napa Report: Old Favorites and Exciting New Spots
I was just up in Napa/Sonoma introducing the in-laws to the region for the first time and had 2 short days to give them a lay of the land. After they left, I stuck around for a while longer to hawk my wine glassware. As always I wish I had more time and money to go hog wild, but I think I did pretty well.
This was also my first trip there not as a “civilian” but officially as someone now in the “trade” and I was overwhelmed by the hospitality, nerdiness, and excitement from everyone I met. There is so much to learn and I really appreciated the ecology, agriculture, and winemaking knowledge all the experts had to share. Coming from a previous career that I really disliked, it’s invigorating to meet a whole industry of people who absolutely love what they do.
MATTHIASON
First stop was introducing my in-laws to this wonderful winery. In my opinion this should be class Napa 201 at Wine University™. Very approachable, but interesting. They recently introduced a higher priced reserve tasting for $125 as well, so we did both standard and reserve to have the largest lineup. They excel at light and bright wines I’m always down to drink.
Reserve
- 21 Chardonnay Reserve, Linda Vista - Balance is the word. Not too much acid, not too much weight. Really like as an approachable yet interesting Chard. While obviously the reserve is better at $75, I feel it’s a big qualitative step up from the enjoyable standard offering at $40 and IMO worth the jump.
- 21 Chardonnay, Michael Mara - This is more to my personal preferences. Heavier weight, but not over oaked. A little more funky… Drinks 4 years older than the the Linda Vista and I’d probably love this with even another 8 years of age.
- 21 Cab Franc - Have always been a huge fan of this bottling. Slightly atypical style, it is so gentle and aromatic with both fruit and pyrazine notes. The deft Matthiason hand is really showcased with this big personality grape.
- 21 Phoenix - Very linear with rounded gentle fruit. For the AFWE, this is 100% the Cab for them.
- 15 Oak Knoll - Really well made, but I feel like this bottle was either open a little too long or even slightly over-aged. Everything was singing in harmony, but the volume wasn’t as turned up as I’d hope.
Standard
- 23 Rose - Wonderful zippy aromatics with Grenache and Barbera. At 11% ABV, it truly is crushable.
- 21 White - For me there was a little much overwhelming pineapple in both aromatics and palate, which I fully admit is a personal quirk since the rest of the group loved it.
- 22 Pinot Noir - Absolutely love this bottle. The Carneros coastal vineyard is so light and tangy at 12%. 1/3 separate vinification each of destemmed, 50% cluster, and 100% cluster is a great way to get different layers of flavor and complexity.
- 22 Montepulciano - Juicy Italian style. Vibrant fruits. The last bottling due to hillside vineyard erosion.
- 22 Red Blend - Consistently one of my favorite sub-$100 Napa Cab blends. Plenty of depth but very ready to drink again indicative of the Matthiason personality.
POTT
Ahhhhhh, the Pott family. I mean, are there words? When I set up our tasting, Claire apologized that Aaron wouldn’t be around and humbly downplayed her hosting abilities. Of course she was being modest and was so generous with her time, knowledge, and humor. There is real rock ‘n roll energy that you can feel through the family, their wines, and their estate. For the in-laws this was like Napa 304 at Wine University™. Not for the faint of heart, but provides great rewards.
- 21 Viognier - Mineral and lower acidity play very well. White peppercorn. Lovely.
- 21 Dynamite w/ Laser Beam - One of the most aptly named wines as there is a huge fruit presence but also pinpoint accuracy in how the flavors present themselves. Silky linear tannin. Drinkable now with a generous decant. So elegant.
- 21 Space & Time Franc blend - Surprising oaky cream elements. Some tar and herbs to balance it out. Dark fruit reaches the edges of the palate and lassos everything together. Fantastic Franc forward favorite.
- 21 Agnes Sorel Cab Franc - No sulphur. This gal got some personality and needed time in glass to blow off some funky steam. Dark blue and some red fruits. So elegant. Light but noticeable pyrazines, which is just how I like them. Again, supremely well named!
- 21 Incubo - Drinking great right now! A much friendlier and approachable vintage. A ripeness that makes it ready to drink but there are some brambley tannic shadows lurking about that hint at years of great aging.
- 16 Incubo - Deep dark complex beast. Black cherry, stewed blueberry, asphalt. Even at 8 years, it feels some years away from prime… but when it hits, will be lights out phenomenal.
- Lagier-Meredith Zinfandel - Yeehaw. Pott winemaking and it’s awesome. Those aromatics were spectacular and bursting with life. Farmers market dark fruit and fig jam with just a hint of spicy shrubbery.
MAYACAMAS
My 3rd visit to the tasting room downtown to introduce the father-in-law to this classic winery. No descriptions needed, you know it. Napa 301 at Wine University™, serious but not intimidating. Library flight is a pro-move.
- 11 Merlot - Normally I like their Metlot, but this was good but sharp and felt like it need a long decant.
- 20 Cab - Mayacamas is typically solid even at a young ages, but this felt a little wobbly. Seemed like fruit and tannins needed some time to harmonize. Required holding.
- 14 Cab - A slightly odd pyrazine forward vintage which some may not like, but for my funky palate I really enjoy. Would be so curious to see how this ages another decade. Would have liked to buy a bottle.
- 12 Cab - Very similar to ‘13 in opulence and elegance, but a little more reserved. In my mind, a textbook example of great cab. Drink or hold.
- 20 Chard - I’m starting to realize a) Chardonnay is not really my thing b) Mayacamas Chard would be the textbook definition of my go-to style if I had to choose. I think I can feel the quality of the fruit, because I’ve had many similar executions of this medium texture and acid style, but there’s something indescribable about what makes this better for me.
Bonus Add-Ons
- 23 Sauv Blanc - Green apple all the way. Hint of salt and sugar. Underappreciated.
- 11 Sauv Blanc - Holy Mosel riesling, Batman. Not what I was expecting, but totally here for it. I bought several bottles.
MEDLOCK AMES
Did the special tour with Ames Morrison himself and it was so cool to walk through the vineyards with him. He is extremely passionate about the whole ecosystem surrounding his vineyards and very happy to just ramble on about his property. Another pretty estate and I have to say they won the game with their cheese pairing.
- 20 Sparkling - ⅔ Chard, ⅓ Pinot. 3 years lees. Kinda blown away how good this is. Really crisp with fine bubbles. I know Schramsburg is the CA sparkling royalty but this goes toe-to-toe. No it’s not elite Champagne, but it’s damn good.
- 20 Burning Daylight White Blend - Peach aroma. Swimming pool with chlorine aroma, but in a nice way. Evokes happy memories of jumping into a pool on a hot summer day.
- 20 Yarlow Merlot - Juicy. Well crafted. Feels a little shy and young, I think it could use a little more age.
- 20 Franc - Herbs, brush, smoke but gentle and approachable. No bell pepper. Almost really like.
- 20 Wedding Tree Cab - A more savory tea and cocoa cabernet expression that reveals darker blue/black fruits towards towards the finish. Excellent main course pairing wine.
- 20 The Flag Cab - Their reserve cab. Big and tannic, more expected style of current Napa cab. Felt well made, but maybe a little generic, if I had to be honest.
- 16 Bell Mtn Cab - Their flagship cab from a Double Magnum… Perfectly aged and super drinkable. At $80/750ml, let’s go.
RIDGE
Legends. A lot of Ridge gets consumed at home. We did the Century Library tasting and I had mixed feelings about it though. The tour itself was great and it was very cool to see production in progress, but the tasting lineup didn’t quite match expectations. Feels it should have been called a “Age Comparison Tasting” because only two of six wines were technically library and the Monte Bello is an add-on for purchase. The standard tasting is more diverse. All that said, the wines are great regardless of any quibbles with their tasting lineup.
Tasting
- 23 Rose - Similar to Matthiason’s but with a touch more weight.
- 22 Geyserville - Juicier. Fleshier. And not just because of age, but because the fruit itself feels more substantial. Drink now.
- 17 Geyserville - These blends always age so well. Elegant and silky. Plenty of earthy leafy notes.
- 21 Rockpile - Plush. Really elegant. Crazy value at sub $50. Really like this.
- 17 Rockpile - Age has treated this very well. I love this. So pretty. High percentage Petite Sirah plays to my palate. This is probably new favorite blend, but only available at the estate or through the club.
- 21 Estate Cab - Lots of potential but so severely underaged. Like young Bordeaux needs 10 years.
Extras
- 15 Monte Bello - Wine. Of. The Trip. Bonkers. Gorgeous brickish dusty fruit with greener pepper notes on the late mid-palate. So dang drinkable right now, can only imagine how it will continue to age. Wish I had the $450 to buy a library bottle. $35 for add-on cost is bananas, and justifies the cost. Of the wines had through “official” tasting lineups, this was the highlight of the trip.
- 21 Carignan - I thoroughly enjoy this bright expression of Carignan. A little crunchy tannins, but sprightly on its toes.
- 21 Petite Sirah - My go-to. My love. My spirit animal. Petite Sirah is definitely my favorite grape and Lytton Springs always delivers. Intellectually my brain wants Monte Bello, but my heart is here. Picked up a 2016 Library to replenish some of my stash.
STONY HILL
Tell me if there is a prettier estate. Go ahead, I’m waiting. Say what you will, but the Demeine Estates cash is definitely delivering on the luxury. There is detail and refinement in everything you can see and touch. And oh yeah, let’s not forget the wine. High pricetag, but in my opinion worth the experience.
- 19 Chard - Let’s start off talking about glassware. They use both Zalto Universal and Burg glassware. The 19 was in the Universal and it was too tight and closed off, especially in comparison to the 15 in the larger glass. When I switched this over to a Burg, it relaxed and I got some zingy lemon.
- 15 Chard - Now at nearly a decade of age, it’s hitting its Meryl Streep era. Mature and beautiful and better than ever. Give me some slightly funky cheese to pair. Zalto Burg treats this wine well, but there is some notable drop off as it sits in glass.
- 21 Ink Grade Vineyard, Napa, Cab - Dark fruits with some red berries mixed in. Brash muscular, kind of angry, tannins reveal its youthful age. Too young right now but in 8+ going to sing!
- 19 Estate Cab - Less fruit, more brush, wood notes. Less tannic and drying. The George Clooney of wines.
- 19 Late Harvest Semillion - Heyyyyy Yquem, how ya doin? I know sweet wines are not for everyone, but hot damn. Given other Stony Hill prices, this seems like an outright steal. Not cloying. Not overly acidic. Not too sticky. Everything in balance. Lovely.
PAX
Just stopped in for a drink before dinner at their great tasting room at the Barlow!
- 23 Trousseau Gris - it’s getting hard for me to tell rose wines apart at this point, but I like it. Has a malty backbone like a sour ale.
- 22 Nellessen Syrah - Coastal vineyard. Served chilled and is so lovely. Very light blue and blackberry jam with a faint sprinkle of black peppercorn. I’d want this in a can for a hot summer picnic.
- 22 Griffin’s Lair Syrah - A stark contract to Nellessen. A loud Syrah that needs more age to come together and loosen up a little.
NEWFOUND
Very cool new brand with a cozy tasting room in St Helena. Matt and Audra are industry vets. Matt was the assistant winemaker at Failla from 2007 until fairly recently. Highly recommend a visit.
- 22 Chenin - 80 Year vines. Ripping acidity. Young and fresh. Pop this sucker right now and enjoy.
- 22 Chardonnay - Big acidity. Green apple. 40 year vines and very small fruit. Lots of character but very young. Lean and mean but in a good way. This has some good maturation ahead of it.
- 22 Semillon - Made in barrels, cigars, ovals. 60 year vines. Slight funk on nose. Meyer lemon. From the same vineyard Matthiason sources from and very similar in the best way.
- 21 Cemetery Grenache - Wow those aromatic. CdP blackberry stem aromas. Very light and pretty but there’s a dense core for structure. Soooooo elegant but bold. This was probably my biggest surprise hit of the trip.
- 22 Placida Grenache - Totally different to Cemetary. Blueberry jam with black pepper. Young and vibrant! Super enjoyable and more approachable for the grenache adverse (ie my girlfriend)
- 22 Mouvedre - Herbs and brush. Black cherry palate. This is a showcase for the grape. Matthiason-esque 13%
PALISADES CANYON
This is a very special estate run by very special people. Steve and Felicia have cared for this property for a decade under the guidance of talented industry vets like Graeme MacDonald and Reid Griggs prepping it for the first release. Dry farmed, head trained, with many old vines. Oxidative Chen and delicate Petite Sirah are two of my three favorite grapes, so this property truly felt like a manifestation of my dream California winery because who the heck decides to base their brand around that pairing???
- 21 Chenin - Not your typical Chenin at all. Death and resurrection oxidative style ala Kongsgaard. 22 in barrel sur lee. Beautiful mouth feel. Substantial but not intimidating. White peaches. Straw. Certainly not for everyone, but very much to my “weird old whites” preferences.
- 21 Cabernet - Comparing to Stony Hill from the previous day, feels like my ideal “best of both worlds” blend of the SHV and Estate Vineyards. Black fruit and brambles but also some rusticity. Silky moderately grippy tannins. The bottle was open for a 36 hours prior to tasting, but Steve didn’t feel there was any degradation. Having not tried a fresh bottle, I have to say it felt very enjoyable, so anyone enjoying their purchase now should try a healthy decant.
- 21 Petite Sirah - Be still my heart. If I was making PS, this is EXACTLY how I would make it - which is to say its an atypical softer execution but doesn’t rob the grape of its personality. Hearty juice typical of Petite but softer with smooth sanded-down tannins.
TURNBULL
A slightly underrated winery in my opinion. I mean, they do get a lot of credit and good scores, but I don’t hear it mentioned that often.
- 21 Franc - Later more ripe picking, so no green pepper notes. Violet floral some blackberry. A touch of raisin. The Cab Franc for those adverse to the pyrazines.
- 21 Leopoldina Reserve Cab - Bright and rustic. Upfront medium opulence with some rustic edges. Wouldn’t age past 6-8. I know Cab isn’t a Provencal grape, but this makes me think of sunny days in Luberon. If $300 is the new $150… and this bottle sells at $150, I think its a great deal.
- 21 Amoenus Cab - Big bruiser. Tannins way more prevalent but not sandpaper. Built for aging, 10+ years.
MAITRE DE CHAI
Young spunky team. Their sparkling chenin pays the bills and it’s extremely good. That said, their still wines are also quite wonderful and compared to many of their Napa neighbors, very underpriced. Or in today’s climate, lets say they are fairly or, even still, slightly underpriced. Everything was tasted from barrel, except sparkling chenin.
- Chard - Matthiason vineyard. Light and sharp at this stage but will obviously bottle well. Very high acid.
- Sauv Blanc - Yeasty saison beer like at this stage. Skins are prevalent. I love a light textured SB as opposed to a high acid Chard.
- Carignan - 70% from the legendary 80 year old vines. Speaks for itself.
- Chenin - Green. Light. Effervescent.
- Older Chenin from the quasi-solera - Softer. More mouthfeel. Should be bottled on its own!
- Cab from a new vineyard - 40 year vines, dry farmed, organic. Huge promise.
- Zin - Own rooted. So much silky fruit. We were laughing because we think this would make for an absolutely killer Nouveau bottling.
- Sparkling Chenin - There’s a reason this $40 bottle is their money maker… it’s freaking crushable.
And that’s all folks! Thanks for reading!
Edited for some typos and clarity