I understand that it is in vogue to trash Australian wine in general, and particularly Australian Shiraz - in retrospect, I am just as guilty of this narrow-mindedness as anyone else. However, I do agree that these broad generalizations are founded on a history of consistent precedents of criminal flabbiness and vulgar ripeness. But deep down I know that this can’t possibly be the case for all the wine produced down-under - so, are there any enlightened members of this Board who have discovered and enjoyed some elegant examples of Shiraz in recent memory? Is there anything worth seeking out? There has to be something out there!
I had a 1994 Penfolds St. Henri last year, and it was really outstanding. This is their premium shiraz that they age only in casks, not barriques, plus Penfolds has never really gone into an overripe style in the first place, so it was a very focused, balanced syrah with great ageing characteristics.
I had a 2002 St. Henri a few months back, and while balanced and enjoyable, I still found it to be fairly ripe. Tasting note:
- 2002 Penfolds Shiraz St. Henri - Australia, South Australia (9/14/2011)
Popped and poured the first 2 glasses and decanted the remainder. Consumed over an hour period.
Dark purple in colour with a full body. Plush texture in the mouth with a heavy glycerol component. On the nose, there were aromas of ripe blackberries, cassis, tar, earth, mint, eucalyptus, with hints of herbs, tobacco and vanilla. Nicely subdued oak for an Australian wine. The palate was all dark ripe fruits, with great balance, mouthfeel and finish. There is a touch of heat on the finish, but not unpleasant. The amount of Cabernet characteristics that came through were surprising, despite only having 9% in the mix.
While I would probably not buy this again at the purchase price, this is an excellent example of what a low to mid level Australian Syrah should strive for. At $30, I’d be all over this. Regardless, an enjoyable experience. If well stored, I suspect this could hold on for quite a while. (90 pts.)
I think to find true elegance in Australia, you may have to look to pre-1998 bottlings, which as I understand is before the rush of producers heavily manipulating their wines to achieve the astronomical RP scores.
I was just going to say, I liked the '05 St Henri as well. My AFWE/Burgophile friend really liked 2001 Greenock Creek Seven Acre.
Had a Clarendon Hills Piggot Range 99 Shiraz - reminded me of Cornas. Posted a note on the WP forum. Lovely stuff and really strutting it’s stuff now. Initially very much new world, but as it developed the classic NR notes crept in, bacon fat, olives bright cherry notes, and very moreish. Only one more bottle. That’s the other thing about good Aussie Shiraz, it’s built to last.
Yarra Yering Dry Red #2 - Shiraz/Viognier blend, very old world styled and could be a dead ringer for a low/mid range Cote Rotie if served blind.
+1 as to Clarendon Hills. They’ve been labeling their recent offerings “Syrah” as opposed to “Shiraz,” I assume to emphasize their atypical style (for Australia, at least).
Tahbilk, Mount Langhi Ghiran, Wendouree, Rockford, and Henschke come to mind as balanced examples of Shiraz (however close that may seem to Northern Rhone syrah).
Oh, that will likely cost him or her membership in the club! ![[wow.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/7/7d450e9830889c8943b674446a21b7254cad657e.gif "wow"){kind=small}
(“The 2001 Shiraz Seven Acre is an opulent hussy boasting magnificent fruit concentration, enormous body as well as length, and surprising elegance and purity. As always, the fruit and vineyard character dominate because no new oak is utilized in these offerings.” 98 points, The Wine Advocate)
Giaconda shiraz is the most Rhone like Aussie shiraz IMHO…
I feel that many producers have also changed back in style in recent years perhaps at least partly in response to the perceived backlash, with much more elegant wines, less jammy, and less American oak (or just less oak), and more pure fruit.
Some really lovely shiraz out there, much of which never hits US shores…
As the AFWE guy who loved the Greenock Seven Acre - I would say it was damn near the least elegant wine I’ve liked in the last 12 months. But it was not oaky and showed fabulous varietal character - was SO unmistakeably syrah. And wasn’t pruney, or flabby. Just BIG. I liked it in spite of the lack of elegance because everything else was there.
Greenock Ck still makes big wines, high alcohol, and the style hasn’t really changed much at all, but the wines do often have nice fruit purity as you say…
Greenock Creek is far from Northern Rhone like IMLTHO. Agree with Paul, Giaconda is perhaps the most ‘Northern Rhone like’ as well as the likes of wines from Clonakilla and Shadowfax.
I don’t really see the point in Australia trying to imitate Northern Rhone, any more than I see the point in trying to make California pinot which is identical to Burgundy. But I do think, as with California pinot, there would be an overall benefit to bringing the style back towards a more moderate place as compared to where it was getting 5-10 years ago, with better acids, less new oak and more moderate alcohol levels.
Paul, you indicate that this is happening, and that many of the producers who made a more moderate style in the past just weren’t exported widely to the US (something I always suspected was the case to some degree). Do you have some specific examples on those two fronts (producers who have changed their style, and good Shiraz that you would recommend that doesn’t typically make it to the US)?
That’s a fair point; I guess I’m looking for an Australian Syrah that expresses its terroir but that is elegant and balanced; not just an Australian Syrah imitating a Northern Rhone Syrah… I just automatically equated elegance with the Northern Rhone, much like I automatically equate elegance in Pinot with Burgundy.
I will see what I can track down from the recommendations above.
I think the subtle change in styles has happened amongst a lot of producers, I recently had an '09 Wendouree blend that was quite approachable and open for such a young wine, with lovely pure fruit, and a far cry from my recollection of any of their wines at such an age, and apparently the straight shiraz is also excellent. Even in the Penfolds portfolio they have broadened the range of styles with the shiraz they make, with wines like the RWT using french oak, and the St Henri seems to be more elegant than ever…
More shiraz also seems to be coming out of the cooler/higher altitude areas in SA, like the Eden valley, a recent Shaw and Smith ('08?) shiraz comes to mind, a quite spicy and lively little number. A Michael Hall (I think) shiraz I tried in a tasting recently also was another fine example,and Henschke now also make a shiraz from Tapa pass (never had it though). Jeremy will no doubt know a few more pertinent examples.
Also there is lots of variety in Shiraz from Victoria and Western Australia as well, usually they are all pretty far way from the overblown/jammy type of wine. I had a lovely Yering Station reserve S/V '02 the other day, a beautiful wine, and am usually a fan of Yarra Yering as well.
I buy now a bit less as I still have a bit in the cellar, but usually always buy Rockfords, Giaconda, Clonakilla (love the straight shiraz), and pick up bits and pieces of things like Wendouree, Jasper Hill, Torbreck etc. from time to time…
Agree with what Paul has said.
If you want to drink a St Henri that is drinking well now try 1996 or earlier vintages. 2002 is just too young and immature. Older ones I have tasted and liked included, 1990, 1991, 1986, 1976 and 1971. In fact we are opening another 1971 St Henri next week. Will let you know how that is travelling.
For younger wines on currently on the market, try a Shaw and Smith or Langhi Ghiran. They have done quite well. For some reason The Giaconda Shiraz seems to perform much better under cork than under screw cap. Castagne and Battley are other two Beechworth producers who are capable of making fine shiraz but not with the same consistency as their neighbour - Giaconda. I like the current Yarra Yerring shiraz (2008) - its a ripper.
Clonakilla makes a shiraz/viognier and a straight shiraz; both lovely. Opinions differ as to which is the better of the two.
Craiglee shiraz is a St Joeseph/Crozes Hermitage cross. ![[cheers.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/0/0ff9bfcdb0964982cd3240b6159868fbdf215b1a.gif "cheers"){kind=small}
I did a Henschke Hill of Grace/Mt Edelstone versus La Chapelle dinner ( including 1990 ) and nobody( surprisingly ) could pick the Henschkes versus the La Chapelle. So there you go, Henschke is Northern Rhoney I suppose.
I drink a lot of both and I find a good Australian Rhone look-alike tends to be a lot cleaner in many cases.
Had this earlier this year and what a revelation. You can still find it on WSPro for less than $20!
2002 Longwood Estate Shiraz
3/9/2011: Oh my is this good. Dark to the rim, very old world nose with pepper, meat, cassis, dark fruits, little barnyard, savory notes. Yes it is full bodied but not a fruit bomb and not over the top. Very smooth with nice fruit and more savory flavors. Liquid velvet and a long, long aftertaste. 14.5% alc and throwing a ton of sediment. This wine is peaking now.
There’s a lot of very good, elegant Australian wine that’s a far cry from the Grateful Palate/JSM-advocated blueberry goop that shows up on these shores. Some very distinctive wines that show a unique terroir imprint and character, though certainly not Northern Rhonish in flavour.
Henschke used to make some tremendous wines, but I stopped trying/caring when the prices went to ridiculous levels.
In Victoria, Mount Langi Ghiran is probably closer to the N. Rhone in flavour than anything else - incredibly pure, bright and peppery; Giaconda’s a bit pricey but worth it and the old Best’s Bin 0 and Seppelt Great Western Shirazes are tremendous, particularly with some age. Also like Craiglee and Hanging Rock’s Heathcote wines.
From NSW, worth seeking out Brokenwood Graveyard Vineyard Shiraz, though like the others it really requires some age.
Wendouree is something totally unique - nothing remotely like the Rhone in flavour or style, but singular, incredibly elegant and well structured wines (though recent comments on the 09s make me wonder if I’ll be able to open them before 10 years old and not be overwhelmed by tannins - as I was with a 99 Shiraz/Mataro not long ago.)
Though for elegant, finessed Aussie wines that are remarkably old-world in style - the best examples I’ve found are not Shiraz, but the Quintet Cabernet blend and Pinot Noir being made at Mount Mary.
I’ve been blown away by Clonakilla. Really great style of Syrah.