Mutated Tasting Success - Uncle Lou, Chinatown NY, 1/4/24

Four of us were supposed to dine at & Sons in Brooklyn and buy aged American wines off of their list. So seven of us dined at Uncle Lou in Chinatown and BYOB’d 12 bottles, 11 of which ranged from good to great (one was corked).

Thanks to Victor Hong for recommending the restaurant and ordering the food. The service and food were both outstanding. While some brought their own stems, the restaurant provided decent quality extras as needed.

We had five board members there, I ask the others to please also post. Besides myself and Eileen, the contributing members were Joe and Julie Grassa, Victor Hong, Jeff Grossman and Jay Miller.

Notes in random order; we passed everything around after the lazy susan became too overloaded to spin. Brief imprecise notes. I am not sure of a few of the vintages, please correct me!

1994 Liparita Cabernet Sauvignon - Classic Napa Cab. Refined black currant, plummy fruit, tannins resolved, polite, New-World friendly, clearly Napa despite a nice hint of tobacco. Rated 92.

2015 Selbach Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Feinherb Ur Alte Reben - Decanted 2½ hours ahead. Lovely fragrant aromas with a faint hint of petrol the only thing showing age. Flowery, mature, moderately sweet. Fine. Rated 91.

2006 Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino - I think opinions were very divided on three excellent Italians. This offered nice balance and density, some pronounced licorice, a tiny bit acescent, but still very good. Rated 90.

2003 Elena Fucci Aglianico del Vulture Titolo - Kudos here to the producer for a very credible wine in a blazing vintage. There are black cherries behind prunes, this amazingly retains some freshness, but finishes a little dry. I think others liked it better. Rated 88.

1998 San Giusto a Rentennano Percarlo - A brilliant wine, youngest and best of the 3 Italians. The flavor profile is almost Nebbiolo-like; lots of roses, but tobacco instead of tar. The heft and solidity are pure Sangiovese, echoes of fine Bordeaux in the structure. Rated 94.

2011 Carlisle Zinfandel Russian River Valley ‘Martinelli Road’ -
Surprisingly this opened stolid as much as solid, with all of the fruit and components, but shut down. This opened over time, it’s fine but just wasn’t in a very good mood. Rated 89.

1993 Ravenswood Zinfandel Sonoma Valley ‘Old Hill Vineyard’ -
The aromas were fully secondary, no hint of excess age. The palate offered roses, brambles, then currants. This bottle did the Zinfandel to Claret trick exceptionally well. Not just polite, but elegant. Rated 93.

2012? Scherrer Zin Alexander Valley - This was a pleasant glass, but closed and rather simple. I don’t think it was corked, but it was muted. Rated 85?

2020? Raul Perez Bierzo ‘Vizcaina de la Vitoriana’ - This had lovely aromatics, rather delicate and floral. Almost contradicted by considerable heft in the palate, some serious weight I don’t associate with Galician red. A bit disjointed today, still a pleasure to drink and should have years of improvement ahead. Rated 90, up to 4 points of improvement possible. I do not understand this wine.

2004 Moreau Chablis Grand Cru ‘Les Clos, Clos des Hospices’ - Stunning fresh aromas of flint, cactus and other flowers, sage, straw. The palate was rich and weightless, the balance unreal, the finish almost eternal. There is both sinuosity and simplicity. Very great wine at peak. Rated 98.

2019? Voge Cornas - [I am uncertain of both vintage and any further designation] - The aromas were lovely, already showing some secondary character. The palate was rich with black cherry fruit, not showing the development of the aromas. Rich and satisfying, but clearly will develop nuance. Rated 91, will improve 3 - 5 points in 10 years.

WOTN: Chablis, hands down.
Runners-up (in order):
Percarlo
Ravenswood
Liparita

Thanks to everybody for a wonderful evening.

Dan Kravitz

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Great notes @Dan_Kravitz

For me the original wines of the night were:

2015 Selbach Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Feinherb Ur Alte Reben - incredibly expressive. beautiful color. Explosive tropical fruit in the form of pink grapefruit and lemon. Zesty acidity and perfect amount of sweetness to balance it out. Rated 4/5

2003 Elena Fucci Aglianico del Vulture Titolo - It still felt quite youthful with black cherry, blackberry, plumb, and a touch of prunes, as well as leather and licorice on the palate. This is still quite tannic. This saw about 3 hours of air, 1 of which was in a decanter. Rated 4/5


The 3 below were not far behind for me on night 1.

2006 Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino - I sampled this wine a few hours before heading to the dinner and it seemed a bit tight, but perhaps more than I realized. I gave it a quick double decant for sediment, and shortly after poured back into the bottle which was left open for an hour or so.

Quick notes at the dinner: dark cherry, licorice, tobacco, still too tannic, feels younger than my previous bottle from 3/27/22.

This made a pretty huge swing by day 3, at which time it was prime drinking Sangiovese. Aged in a mixture of French and Slavonian Oak in varying sizes, this stays true to Sangiovese with dark cherry, tobacco, dried herbs, and a touch of tomato leaf, but also offers notes of licorice, and a hint of mocha. The tannins were tamed and it fell into balance. If it tasted like this on day 1 it would have likely been my wine of the night.

1993 Ravenswood Zinfandel Sonoma Valley ‘Old Hill Vineyard’ - Dried and raisiny blackberry and plum, with some cinnamon and sweet tobacco.

1994 Liparita Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain - Dark cherry is still salient, but this wine is quite tertiary with lots of mushroom, as well as tobacco.

Some photos. I missed the Raul Perez and the Cornas.










what’s the corkage policy at Uncle Lou?

So nice!

Uncle Lou charges $20 per bottle, but if you ask they will revise that to $20 per person, which is what we paid.

Dan Kravitz

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There was something off with that bottle of Scherrer. I brought it. Because a bottle from the same lot opened a few weeks ago showed beautifully. This showed Almost nothing which is what lead me to suspect low level tca.

The Moreau Chablis was unquestionably my WOTN. I loved it at the La Paulee verticals about 15? Years ago and it’s only gotten better.

The Ravenswood was my favorite red, rich and complex.

I continue to be fascinated by the Raul Perez wines but I agree that, while good, this showed quite young. I wish I had a handle on aging curves for high quality Mencia

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I’ve been drinking a lot of the Perez wines, including the one you guys had and tend to agree on not knowing where they will go. I opened a 2010 Ultreia last year thinking it might have some development but alas it was more integrated, but fundamentally the same components that I see in the young wines.

@Dan_Kravitz you win a prize for using a word I had to look up…acescent was a new one to me. Apt usage.

Cheers,
fred

I am also a fan of Raul Perez, not that I’ve had as many as I’d like. His Atalier Rias Baixas is a go-to for me, although recently the price has gone up considerably. This is the second Bierzo I’ve had from him and I simply do not understand the wines. I will pick up another bottle to hold for five years, see what happens.

Dan Kravitz

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I’ve really been liking the Castro Candaz wines - Finca el Curvado and A Boco do Demo. They are worth a look too.

fred

Thank you, all.

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I was going to say, because your note, Dan, doesn’t accord with any of my experience or views on notes on old Scherrer (a 2009 tasted in 2022 was in my WOTY list for that year).

So jazzed to see that note on the Chablis—I was able to acquire a very recent vintage of that cuvee, very excited to try…at some future point!

Mahalo nui loa,

Mike

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@Dan_Kravitz what did you think of the Falkenstein? Trying to understand your riesling palate.

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Assuming that might have been the corked wine, Dan? :cry: Rare enough perhaps in a Ries?

The Falkensteiner was irredeemably corked. One sniff was more than enough. Sorry, Jeff meant well and it should have been a beauty, the few '21 Mosels I’ve had have been really good.

Dan Kravitz

Thanks, Dan. Ah, I’m sorry to hear that.

Mike,

The Sherrer could have had low level TCA, but it was definitely off.

Glad you got some of the Moreau. Talk about a producer who has fallen off of the radar!

Dan Kravitz

For sure. At a 14 tasting a while back, his regular Les Clos was only beaten by Raveneau and Dauvissat Forets bottles

Bummer, I was excited to hear your review of that.

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2019? Voge Cornas - [I am uncertain of both vintage and any further designation] - The aromas were lovely, already showing some secondary character. The palate was rich with black cherry fruit, not showing the development of the aromas. Rich and satisfying, but clearly will develop nuance. Rated 91, will improve 3 - 5 points in 10 years.

Your recall is pretty good, Dan! It was Voge 2019 Cornas “Les Chailles”, the young vines cuvee. I’m booking-up on recent Rhone wines because I’m going to the Marche in Ampuis in a couple weeks and want my palate all primed.