To which some might answer that even a stopped watch is right twice a day.
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I can’t imagine how Frédéric Engerer at Chateau Latour would have reacted, but it would not have been pretty. A two star Michelin, when Montrose and Leoville Las Cases are rated higher, would have been incredibly galling. And Bordeaux winemakers take these things seriously, hence the screams and lawsuits every time there is a new Saint Emilion classification. Latour has tried so hard to differentiate themselves from the other first growths both commercially and in the bottle. It is utterly ridiculous to think of it, as anything, other than a top rated wine.
So many other stupidities, but this one for me is the absolute proof that they have absolutely no idea what the hell they are doing. Such a moronic classification from a publication as prestigious as Michelin, does harm to their own brand, and because it has such a wide audience, it is more damaging than if they had just not put anything out there.
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WK posted here a few months ago that he has perceived microbial issues with the last few vintages and the wines have not maintained the run of quality that they showed from 16-20. Hence dropping them from WA reviews. Haven’t tried the more recent wines myself so I can’t weigh in. But that is probably at least a part of it. (Though they are not estates I would by default expect to see on this sort of list.)
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All 3 of those estates?
Here’s what he said:
That’s a very good point - but I wonder how involved he and Yohan Castaing were with the Michelin classification? There is no mention of the latter on the TWA website (nor for that matter is there any confirmation of WK’s departure).
No clue as to their involvement other than the inference — as others noted upthread — that Montrose and Conseillante in the top echelon over several 1ers is at least consistent with WK’s scores over the last few years. And the burg drinkers similarly seemed to think that the burgundy rankings largely reflected his tastes.
Seems like this called for having the wine analyzed before making such a speculative comment in a formal review.
Is this a serious comment?
I think this ranking is probably about as useful as the 1855 list: if a château is here, it’s likely very good. If a château isn’t here, it could still be very good, and perhaps better than those ranked at the top.
I talked to an importer who’s been in the Bordeaux wine business for many years who believes Palmer is, today, a 1st Growth and Margaux a 3rd. Everyone has an opinion, and the Michelin list is one more of them.
One thing I do applaud is Las Cases ranking in Michelin’s top group. St-Julien is my favorite village, and the fact none of its properties was granted Premier Grand Cru status was never right.
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I guess this is the try to establish a new classification because the ranking of 1855 can hardly mirror the situation of today.
The absence of Latour raises questions as the ones of Leoville Poyferré or Ducru Beaucaillou. And I would add that in my opinion Chateaux like Sociando Mallet or Phelan Segur are as good or even superior as some of the estates rewarded with one grape.
Frankly: for me it counts most what is in the glas. And this changes from vintage to vintage. So a 2013 Bordeaux is what it is – a wine from a bad vintage most likely not up to a 3 grape grade even if the label says Chateau Montrose. Montrose got 89 points in 2013, Sociando Mallet 92 points in 2014. This shows the problem with the 3 grape system for a wine drinker.
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Apart from the fact that this was so poorly done, Michelin is somewhat hampered by the three star system. Had they been able to use five stars, it would’ve allowed great wines such as Sociando Mallet etc to be featured,and perhaps a much more nuanced version of the list.
Any list will be a problem. It’s what makes wine so endlessly fun, and caters to taste all over the spectrum. I am sad with an important institution has so completely butchered their first version, and worse, given the fact that it’s Michelin will give it far more credibility than it deserves.
I am much more disturbed by not understanding the methodology. It’s not restaurant reviewing, where rightly they fear that the Michelin inspector once identified will get special treatment. What you have is a bottle of wine; it’s got a cork in it. There can be no funny business, so why all the secrecy and gobbledygook? The basic questions of who, how, where and what criteria are being used remain. If they are looking for credibility, then within the limits of this being opinion, and therefore by definition cannot be objective, at least tell us how they arrived at the classification.
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No doubt the odds on Michelin adding a fourth star are getting higher.
I see at least a few exceptions. You would actually do better following the 1855 list than this one, which is pretty embarrassing since they had an extra 171 years to get it right.
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Do we know the methodology? Is this a ranking based on the most recent vintage(s)? A vertical of the past 10 years? Something else?
A friend of mine who should know says that Latour declined to participate. Apparently you had to opt in to be considered?
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nope
it’s based on the now
To my knowledge they’ve not disclosed how they determine these ratings. The whole venture is bizarre. I haven’t encountered a single positive opinion about any of this and I’m also not sure who a Michelin wine guide is for. In its current form, casual wine drinkers are not likely to reference these general scores nor are they likely to be exposed to it. And enthusiasts will never assign authority to this guide.
So as far as Michelin in the world of wine…
“What would you say you do here?”
How has no one else mentioned the fact that Figeac received 3 stars? I”ll openly say that I enjoy the wine but haven’t had any modern vintage of it (last 10 years). I’m a little shocked that such an austere and old school wine would be in that heady of a territory. Has it changed that much? I always felt its detractors called it thin and green while its proponents would call it an old fashioned wine usually worthy of maybe 2nd growth status.
Am I out to lunch?
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