Was watching this old video by @William_Kelley about the appellation hierarchy being reconstructed rather than revealed
he mentions lower standards via
poor clonal selection of chard/pinot (I think this is the least likely factor to be changed)
higher yields
lower standards of viticulture (I’m guessing this would be with regards to pruning, cultivation, sprays, weeding, deleafing, green harvesting… Lots of stuff. Basically just being in the vineyards,
less optimum picking times
less careful sorting, less careful pressing, shorter macerations, lesser quality oak, shorter elevage
It made me remember a remark from a producer in that book by raj parr, the atlas of taste, who was very proud to tell raj that he treats all his appellations with the same care… I can’t remember the name though
Can anyone share which producers are proud to say this and are willing to invest the time and money to do it?
JMT Bouley told me he loses money on his Bourgogne because he makes it with as much care as his full range. Also said he loses on his Haute Cotes. This would be his cellar pricing, not secondary pricing (as I note the Haute Cotes has jumped up in price last couple vintages… '21 “Vibrations” - the name he added to it - was pretty quaffable!).
I think a deal of realism is required.
If the rain’s coming, where are the growers going to send the pickers? To the best plots.
But in fine, unhurried vintages there is a chance to afford great care to the less hallowed terroirs.
But it’s inevitable that the Grand Crus will receive more attention to detail in the vineyard, more rigorous sorting, picking when the grapes are deemed to be optimal, see the best oak etc etc
But there are Bourgogne’s that are consistently good. Roumier BB springs to mind, as does Arnoux’s Pinot Fin.
Having said that my contact with Bourgognes is dimishing, preferring to look for value in Mercurey, Rully, Macon etc
Many great produced Bourgognes, my favs
Reds:
Koji domaine (expensive)
Charles Lachaux
Roty Pres. (used to be in Gevrey, but was de-classified) is crazy value, but needs a bit of time in cellar
White
PYCM - crazy value at release price, just secured 22 ~40 euros
Dujac bourgogne blanc