May 2025--Burgundy, Paris, Vienna, Salzburg, Bodensee, and Alsace (Oh my)

Travel, Wine Tourism, and Restaurants Forum
1

~3 weeks
Hi all,

I am looking for advice from all of you trip planners. In May of 2025, HRH and I are taking our grown daughter and her husband (both age 34 at the time) on a little European journey. He has never been so we want to give him a great experience. Even though we have traveled in Europe many times, we have not been for about a decade so I am open to lots of advice. Our daughter attended SCAD as an illustrator, and spent a semester in Provence, so art will need to be highlighted on the trip. My wife and daughter speak French; I speak travelers French and travelers German. Since I was a singer, my pronunciation is good.

Beaune (3 nights)
It looks like the TGV no longer goes directly from CdG to Dijon, so we are planning to rent a car. We land at CdG, pick up the rental car and drive to Beaune. Either on the drive down, or the drive back to Paris we will hit Chablis, Semur, Châteauneuf (en Auxois), and maybe Noyers. The problem with this itinerary is that we will only be in Beaune for three nights, with two of the nights being Sunday and Monday, but I think that our son-in-law will enjoy the slow pace at the beginning of the trip. I hope that La Ciboulette is still open on Sunday, and that Ma Cuisine is still open on Monday, but I welcome other suggestions. I want to keep restaurants in Beaune so I don’t have to drive after kir/vin/Marc… I will reach out to some old contacts to try to schedule a few tastings; I refuse to pay the current tariffs at places like Marché aux Vins, Bouchard, and Château de Meursault just so our son-in-law can see a cellar.

Drive to Paris (4 nights) We like to stay in the 5th, near the Mouff and will rent an apartment. We always do a dinner at Balzar for sentimental reasons; I need one more restaurant. The kids probably will not want to drop big bucks for a starred experience so early in the trip (doing that next).

Fly to Vienna (3 nights). We are renting an apartment near Naschmarkt. Our daughter will probably want to spend a day at the Kunsthistorisches Museum; I love the Bruegel room there. The kids want to do a Heurige night (Zahel?); we are also planning on Steirereck for a big meal.

Train to Salzburg (3 nights). HRH and I are staying at Hotel Schloss Mönchstein. I have wanted to take her there since I stumbled into the lobby on a college trip. This is our 40th anniversary so it seems like the right time. Our meals will probably be a beer night at Augustiner, Bärenwirt, and maybe Glass Garden since we’re staying at the castle. Anyone tried it?

Train to Innsbruck for lunch, then train to Friedrichschaffen so we can bus to Meersburg (2 nights). We love Meersburg, especially since you can’t get there from here (Hotel zum Bären).

Ferry to Konstanz, train to ZĂĽrich, train to Colmar to pick up car so we can drive to Riquewihr (3 nights). We have never been but I have always wanted to stay in the village. I have scoured all of the old Alsace threads, but welcome new input regarding tastings, restaurants, and sightseeing (maybe HĂ´tel Restaurant Saint-Nicolas).

Train to Strasbourg for the day, and the evening TGV to CdG, and an airport hotel (prob Sheraton) before our flight home.

I am not opposed to classic Berserker thread drift, since I am still brainstorming.

2

Salzburg Cable Car is fun.

3

Regarding Vienna, may isn’t the best season for heurigen, but it’s very easy to get down to Grinzing to check out the ones that are open,

I would definitely check out Demel’s and Cafe Central and also try to get some doner, which is delicious and a bit different than it is in Germany.

A couple sort of places I really like to spend time are the schonbrunn gardens; if you wander up the hill there’s actually a little cafe there that isn’t ever busy and is a nice place to sit, the Belvedere is also a favorite; obviously not off the beaten path since the Kiss is there, but neat. I really like the brutalist Karl Marx hof in the 21 which have been converted to modern apartments, the hundretvasserhausen, the power plant painted by Klimt, and the gasometer apts which are also neat.

4

In Vienna, we enjoyed the Albertina Museum very much as well. I would think about trying to squeeze another day into Vienna. There’s a lot going on there. In Salzburg, going to Augustiner Brau is essential - literally the best beer in Europe. I would also suggest stopping by at Augustiner when they open at 2 just to see all the local folks that are our age coming in for an afternoon pint in their traditional dress.

1 Like
5

Beer out of the wooden barrels. So awesome

6

In Vienna don’t miss the Belvedere - go for the Klimt and in a similar vein the Secession is worth a short stop and it’s near the Naschmarkt. And of course the Kunst Historisches is worth a stop especially check their special exhibits. Not art, but the Museum of Military History is very well done and there’s some interesting art as well.

We really enjoyed the VolksOpera (even more than Opera at the Staatsoper) and there is a cute winebar nearby Glasweise that was a great after theater stop. We also enjoyed dinner at Labstelle

Demels is a favorite for a mid afternoon pick me up - especially the finger sandwiches. For breakfast - try Cafe Museum and reserve ahead. And if you are looking for schnitzel, Cafe Imperial has some of the best.

We had an interesting dinner at Steiereck - lots of amuse bouches, a fantastic bread cart, amazing wine list, and little cards that describe each dish with the ingredients - a nice touch. But my favorite was dessert - I ordered the Orchard Fruits and they brought about a tray of different variety of apples and a sorbet from each - I chose my favorite and then they provided a dessert around my choice. It is an experience and complicated.

I’m so glad we returned to Vienna as our first trip was early 90s - it’s a great city. Our last trip we spent five nights and I thought it was perfect.

7

Seems more wine than art. And pretty roundabout.

Stay in Paris first, then Beaune, then Alsace. Not sure what you are gaining with all the backtracking.

You can fly home from Vienna. If necessary, Vienna to CDG and overnight (don’t try same day if it’s two separate tickets).

I think you are cramming too much in, when you are skipping over great art in some of the places you will be in. Perhaps Meersbruck is really worth it, but an extra city just for a lunch is gong to leave you exhausted (at least it would me).

In general, in Europe, the place you are is as nice as the place you are going to, so take time to smell the roses.

2 Likes
8

did they ever do CDG to Dijon? Thought it was always out of Gare De Lyon for the TGV? (at least for the last 10 years)

9

the good old days…

10

As far as Paris restaurants:

Juveniles for very good value and very good food and wine

L’Ami Jean for a great meal and very memorable time.

1 Like