We have a new and exciting release today of Sylvain Pataille’s 2022 burgundies: pinots, chards and aligote! There might not be anyone more in demand in Burgundy at the moment in this price range than Sylvain’s wines!
Not all Aligotés are created equal: Aligoté Vert, the modern clonal selection, is the high-yielding version; Aligoté Doré, the pre-clonal version, is so fantastic you wouldn’t believe it is the same variety. Both have high acidity but the comparison ends there. There is both a complexity to the acidity of Aligoté Doré and a complexity to the fruit that surrounds it, that is in another league altogether.
Aligoté Doré is actually very rare. Because there isn’t a single nursery proposing it, the only people who have it are those who have very old Aligoté vines. De Villaine, Comte Armand, Michel Lafarge, Pierre Morey, Nicolas Faure, and famously Jean-Marie Ponsot because it is in his Premier Cru Monts Luisants, are a few of the domaines who produce it. But its greatest champion, with four single-vineyard bottlings, is Sylvain Pataille.
As I have said in the past, I always try to have a few Pataille at home to scratch my Burgundy itch and not kill the budget! Pataille is a producer over the years I have dabbled with and have always liked, and for the region, he is the most in-demand producer at the moment (and one of the most in all of Burgundy). His single vineyard wines are in such high demand, and we get so little of them, we have to allocate them. That was the case for this wine as our supplier got scary low quantities of it in 2021. BUT, not with the 2022, as that was a bumper crop and we have enough to offer to the mailing list and are doing so at a VERY special low price that we sharpened the pencil A LOT to do so!
A GREAT article on Pataille was published this past May and gets to the heart of why Marsannay, he and Aligote are having a moment that ius just getting started! Read that here: LINK
Click HERE to purchase these wines.
| Mix | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| Aligotes | On 1 | On 6+ | Qty |
| Pataille Bourgogne Aligote '22 | $ 32.99 | $ 29.99 | 15 |
| Pataille Bourgogne Aligote Auvonnes au Pepe '22 | $ 64.99 | $ 61.99 | 1 |
| Pataille Bourgogne Aligote Les Champ Forey '22 | $ 69.99 | $ 64.99 | 8 |
| Pataille Bourgogne Aligote La Charme aux Pretres '22 | $ 83.99 | - | 4 |
| Chardonnays | |||
| Pataille Marsannay Blanc '22 | $ 59.99 | $ 56.99 | 7 |
| Pataille Marsannay Chardonnay Rose '22 | $ 86.99 | - | 7 |
| Red Burgundy | |||
| Pataille Bourgogne Rouge '22 | $ 39.99 | $ 37.99 | 21 |
| Pataille Marsannay Clos du Roy '22 | $ 86.99 | - | 6 |
| Pataille Marsannay Rouge '22 | $ 54.99 | $ 51.99 | 15 |
| Pataille Marsannay Rouge le Chapitre '22 | $ 86.99 | - | 6 |
| Pataille Marsannay Rouge le Chapitre '22 1.5L | $ 199.99 | - | 2 |
| Pataille Marsannay Rouge Longeroies '22 | $ 86.99 | - | 8 |
Click HERE to purchase these wines.
Bourgogne Aligote 2022
******* out of 5***
88 pts Jasper Morris
In bottle. Mid lemon yellow. A fine tangy fruit on the nose, crunchy and classy, a little bit of almond paste, very long. Just a lovely example, straightforward by Sylvain’s standards but so persistent. Drink from 2024-2027.
Variety: Aligoté Doré
Vine Age: 52 years old on average
Terroir: 60% from Champ Forey (limestone and gravel soil), 40% from Auvonnes (clay, marl soil with small stones)
Viticulture: Certified organic, biodynamic methods
Vinification: Directly pressed, indigenous yeast fermentation (2/3 in older barrels, 1/3 in tank). Aged for 12 months, minimal sulfur, added only at bottling.
Bourgogne Aligote 'Les Auvonnes au Pepe’ 2022
(90-92) pts Vinous
The 2022 Bourgogne Aligoté Auvonnes Au Pépé, named after the lieu-dit on marn soils, has one of my favorite bouquets from Pataille: endearing lemon thyme, pear, and white peach aromas blossom in the glass. The palate is well-balanced with a crisp bead of acidity. It is lightly spiced, but what makes this wine is the lip-smacking salinity on the finish. Very more-ish. - By Neal Martin on November 2023
(89-90) Jasper Morris
Mid lemon and lime with a salty white fruit on the nose. Clean white orchard fruit on the palate with a slaty note behind. Good length. May need longer to express itself fully, at which point it could leap ahead of its stable mates. Drink from 2025-2030. Tasted: November 2023.
Variety: Aligoté Doré
Vine Age: Panted in the 1930s
Terroir: Slope facing east, 250-meters elevation, clay and marl soils with many small limestone rocks
Viticulture: Certified organic, biodynamic methods
Vinification: Vertical press, indigenous yeast fermentation. Aged for 12 months in older barrels and demi-muids, minimal sulfur additions only at bottling.
Bourgogne Aligote ‘Les Champ Forey’ 2022
5 Star Wine
90-92 pts Jasper Morris
Fuller yellow, with the grape skin and apple character of very good Aligoté. It is worth spending time over the nose. This is just immaculate, with such intensity behind and just a little wood. Seems ready to bottle whereas the 2021 needed 24 months. Very long behind. Effortless! Drink from 2025-2030. Tasted: November 2023.
Size: 0.3 ha (0.74 ac)
Variety: Aligoté doré
Vine Age: Planted from 1932 to 1961
Terroir: 250-meters’ elevation, east-facing, gravelly limestone soil.
Viticulture: Certified organic, biodynamic methods, goblet trained, 14,000 vines/ha.
Vinification: Pressed with a vertical press, ambient yeast fermentation, aged for 12 months in used oak barrels, minimal SO2 added at bottling.
Etymology: Champ means field. The land must have belonged to a family named Forey. Only 75 cases of this cuvée are produced each year.
Bourgogne Aligote ‘La Charme aux Pretres’ 2022
Jasper Morris
A little deeper in colour and with a touch of oxidation at the moment, which will disappear. Slightly drier behind, with its classical tension. Less my style of wine but with interest. Dried peach skins? There is a slight residual bitterness, which may derive from the clay soil, Sylvain suggests. Drink from 2025-2030. Tasted: November 2023.
Variety: Aligoté Doré
Vine Age: 72 years old on average
Terroir: 280 to 320-meters elevation, south/southwestern exposure, mostly limestone (crinoidal and Comblanchien) soils with some ostrea acuminata marl, shallower at the top of the slope
Viticulture: Certified organic, biodynamic methods
Vinification: Directly pressed, indigenous yeast fermentation in older barrels, minimal sulfur only at bottling.
Marsannay Blanc 2022
(89-91) pts Vinous
The 2022 Marsannay Blanc is a blend of several parcels. It was fairly reduced on the nose when I encountered it. The palate is more promising—much more—finely balanced with perfectly judged acidity, tangible mineralité, and a delicacy on the finish that I appreciate. Give it 12 months once in bottle. - By Neal Martin on November 2023
Size: 0.17 ha (0.42 ac)
Variety: Chardonnay, Chardonnay Rose
Vine Age: Planted in 1949, 1951, 1989, 2009, and 2012
Terroir: Blend of 5 different Marsannay parcels including Blungeys and Clos du Roy
Viticulture: Certified organic
Vinification: Gentle pressing, indigenous yeast fermentation. Aged for 18 months in barrel (1/3 new), low sulfur additions only at bottling.
Marsannay Chardonnay Rose 2022
Chardonnay Rose is a genetic mutation of the Chardonnay grape specific to the village of Marsannay. Sylvain Pataille first noticed the mutation in 2002, when he acquired his Blangeys parcel, and found some surprisingly pink grapes at harvest. From 2002 until 2005, his Marsannay Blanc was 100% Chardonnay Rose from Blangeys, then he began to blend in Chardonnay from other parcels to complete the cuvée.
(87-89) pts Jasper Morris
Fuller yellow. Some character to the nose, with some spice, don’t expect roses in the profile though. Good tension, a wealth of white fruit, feels like skin maceration but it is the Chardonnay Rose grape character, with a saline finish. A delicious if slightly unusual wine. Drink from 2025-2027. Tasted: November 2023
(88-90) pts Vinous
The 2022 Marsannay Blanc Chardonnay Rose, which Pataille likened to Pinot Beurot, has a strict nose with touches of dried lemon and orange rind, but overall, it is quite minimalist in style. The palate is lively on the entry, with a touch of CO2, an attractive texture, and a touch of chai and chamomile towards the finish. Fine. - By Neal Martin on November 2023
Variety: Chardonnay Rose
Vine Age: Oldest planted in 1949, propagation in 2009, 2013-14
Terroir: Originally Les Blangeys, now multiple Marsannay parcels
Viticulture: Certified organic, biodynamic methods
Vinification: Indigenous yeast alcoholic fermentation. Aged for 15 months in 3 to 4-year-old barrels, minimal sulfur added only at bottling.
Bourgogne Rouge 2022
Vinous
The 2022 Bourgogne Rouge has a delineated and attractive bouquet, a little backward initially but opening with brambly red fruit and forest floor scents. The palate has a real “crunch” to it, more of a textural Pinot than one with obvious fruit flavors. Delicious. - By Neal Martin on November 2023
Size: 1.07 ha (2.64 ac)
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vine Age: Planted in 1956
Terroir: Classic clay-limestone soils
Viticulture: Certified organic, biodynamic methods
Vinification: 0-15% whole-cluster pressing, indigenous yeast fermentation, gentle extraction. Aged for 10-12 months in barrel (15% new), low sulfur additions.
Marsannay 2021
(90-91) pts Jasper Morris
A lovely glowing mid red, with a fresh strawberry note, plenty of energy, and very good acidity. A lovely and lively wine with a very long finish. Drink from 2025-2029. Tasted: November 2023.
(88-90) pts Vinous
The 2022 Marsannay Rouge is a mixture of Domaine and négoce wines (from Pataille’s father). Initially, it is a little timid, but it opens nicely with aeration, bringing flinty black fruit with the 80% whole bunches imparting a light pepperiness. The palate is medium-bodied with granular tannins, fresh and vibrant, finishing with a touch of black olive. - By Neal Martin on November 2023
Size: 2.40 ha (5.93 ac)
Variety: 100% Pinot Noir
Vine Age: Planted from 1950-1980
Terroir: Blend of multiple terroirs across the village appellation
Viticulture: Certified organic, biodynamic methods
Vinification: 30% whole-cluster, indigenous yeast fermentation. Aged for 18 months in older oak barrels, low sulfur additions at bottling.
Marsannay Rouge Chapitre 2022
5 Star Wine
92-93 pts Jasper Morris
Decent red purple. The nose though is spectacular, ultra welcoming plums and dark raspberries, quite stunning fruit right across the palate with a gorgeous balanced deep red fruit. Brilliant fruit acid balance. Unmatchable. Drink from 2028-2035. Tasted: November 2023.
(90-92)pts Vinous
The 2022 Marsannay Rouge Le Chapitre, one of the only cuvées that had been racked, has a pure black cherry and boysenberry-scented bouquet that opens nicely in the glass. Fine delineation—one of the most powerful. The palate is well-defined with blackcurrant and bilberry fruit. A vertical Marsannay with a strict finish. It will need two or three years in bottle. - By Neal Martin on November 2023
Size: 1.05 ha (2.61 ac)
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vine Age: 1/3 of vines planted each in 1950, 1980, 1990
Terroir: Moderate to sleep slope, facing east. Light pink, gravelly (grèzes litées) soil. 270-300-meters elevation.
Viticulture: Certified organic, biodynamic methods
Vinification: 100% whole-cluster pressing, indigenous yeast fermentation. Aged for 18 months in barrel, low sulfur additions only at bottling.
Marsannay Rouge Clos du Roy 2022
(92-94) Vinous
The 2022 Marsannay Clos du Roy has a very well-defined bouquet with black cherries and wild strawberries, hints of inkwell and brine joining the chorus line with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, taut and fresh, with a very elegant, poised finish. About as good a Marsannay as you will find in this vintage. - By Neal Martin on November 2023
90-92 pts Jasper Morris
A hedonistic deep purple color. The nose is quite backward but obviously all the fruit is there. A very dense red berry fruit, minerals behind. Still unknit but on the road to becoming spectacular. Drink from 2028-2034. Tasted: November 2023.
Size: 2.25 ha (5.56 ac)
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vine Age: Planted in 1952, 1965, 1978, 2001, 2003-6
Terroir: Moderate slope facing east to southeast. Gravelly (grèzes litée), slightly reddish, iron rich soil (“Rabbit Earth"). 270-meters elevation.
Viticulture: Certified organic, biodynamic methods
Vinification: 100% whole-cluster pressing, indigenous yeast fermentation. Aged for 18 months in barrel, 5-6 months blending and settling in stainless steel tank, minimal sulfur additions only at bottling.
Marsannay Rouge Longeroies 2022
5 Star Wine
91-93 pts Jasper Morris
Bright deep purple. A spectacular bouquet, too much fruit to be able to keep it all in one glass, yet beautifully harnessed. Magically intense with a wonderful interplay between the peppery energy of the stems and the magical intensity of the dark red berry fruit. Drink from 2028-2034. Tasted: November 2023.
(91-93) pts Vinous
The 2022 Marsannay Les Longeroies offers open red cherry and raspberry coulis scents on the nose—one of the most generous at the moment amongst Pataille’s 2022s. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, slightly flinty red fruit and fine delineation, finishing with impressive focus. Plenty of energy coiled up in this Marsannay. Excellent. - By Neal Martin on November 2023
Size: 0.83 ha (2.05 ac)
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vine Age: 2/3 planted in the early 2000s, 1/3 planted in the mid-1950s
Terroir: In Bas des Longeroies; Moderate slope facing southeast. Well-draining, gravelly, light reddish-brown to tan soils. 275-meters elevation.
Viticulture: Organic (certified Ecocert), biodynamic methods
Vinification: 100% whole-cluster pressing, indigenous yeast fermentation, gentle extraction. Aged for 18 months in barrel (15% new), low sulfur additions only at bottling.
Click HERE to purchase these wines.