Thought I would submit this thought to this community of such knowledgeable wine people: who is the best producer of Malconsorts? (Subjective, I know.)
How would you compare the differences between the various producers of this wine?
Look forward to the answers.
Totally subjective. For me, Dujac, and I love the regular De Montille.
Cathiard gets my vote.
Meo
I love it Karl. Four posters, four answers. Mine, although I’ve only had it a couple of times, is the de Montille Christaine cuvée.
I’d love the Meo also if they made it. I have to say that despite Malconsorts lofty reputation I’ve never had a truly great example that’s close to maturity and that includes several bottles of '99 and '02 Cathiard. A Burgundy fanatic acquaintance of mine is convinced that Malconsorts needs at least 20 years to reveal its full potential.
I can explain the part about the lofty reputation and maturity. Dujac and De Montille only started in 2005, as they bought out the Moillard holding that at best, made pleasant Malconsorts. LeMoine is in a similar boat, I don’t know what the first vintage was, but the earliest records I can find was also 2005.
Lamarche has always been criticized of a low bar for quality, and what they are doing now is also much better, but also recent changes (really starting with 2008). Clos Frantin has always been nice, better than Moillard, but never stellar. Hudelot Noellat I can’t speak to the quality, but has always been hard to find, this could be the one producer that has a good, mature vintage out there, but I feel like this has never been a stellar bottling until recent too. I’m just not a fan of the Potel/Roche Bellene wines, and Dominique Mugneret is very disappointing. That one in particular could be a lot better.
Circling back about Cathiard, Sylvain’s style is very ageworthy, so most vintages are going to be very young. I had an epic 89 Andre Cathiard once.
Before it shut down (and obviously before it was mature) Cathiard’s 98 was stellar. But i have never had a mature bottle of malconsorts.
Maureen, I agree with you. Do you have an opinion on why so?
Carlos
Oh, I have had quite a lot of mature Malconsorts – and many really fine ones … old Clos Frantin (now Bichot) can be marvallous … 1985, 1982, 1979, 78, 76, 71 …
Also Grivelet (the former owner) made fine Malconsorts (1957, one of the best wines of my vintage … and 1962 and 64),
Another producer is/was (the late) André Cathiard, father of Sylvain, who first made M. en metayage (Cathiard-Moulinet), later purchased the parcel … 1990 is still great, 1979, 1978 …
Sylvain made great M. – and especially 1997 has been fully mature and fine … and 2000 is similar, 1999 will be extra when mature eventually. I´m not sure if his son Sebastian is still on the same level … vintages since 2011 are missing the „special something“ …
Moillard (-Grivot … also Thomas-Moillard) made very traditional ageworthy M., nothing for young drinking, but if you taste 1966, 1969, 1971, 1976 … mmmhhh … (if the bottle is in good condition).
This parcel has been sold to Dujac and Montille in 2005 … and please note that there has always been a part of Les Gaudichots in it (already at Moillard), and still is in Dujac … but all still too young for me.
I´ve not had many mature M. from Lamarche … and 1976 and 83 were good, but not great …
Hudelot-Noellat makes his M. in his usual elegant style, and it is always one of the best 1er crus (with Beaux-Monts and Suchots …)
Malconsorts was a favorite among negociants (I guess Moillard sold a lot, but maybe also Clos Frantin …) – and I´ve had fine bottles, e.g. by Vasseur (some relation to Moillard), Ladoux, Jaboulet-Vercherre and others … from the 60ies to 80ies …
Also Potel made fine M. (2002, 2003, 2005 …) … and Le Moine (2007, 2009 …)
The judgment is wanting on Dujac and Montille since all are too young, but I have been quite disapointed with Dujacs 2007 … simply too light …
At the moment there are 6 proprietors: Bichot, Montille, Dujac, Cathiard, Lamarche and Hudelot-Noellat.
it is crazy how the cathiard has skyrocketed in price. i was also very surprised to discover the vines are only ~35 years old.
regarding maturity, i thought a mag of 2006 dujac several years ago was surprisingly open and somewhat lacking in structure especially compared to the 2006 montille version.
You wouldn´t seriously call a Mag. of 2006 Malconsorts “close to maturity” - even if it was kind of “open” through a period …
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not fully mature but surprisingly ready compared to the montille which was very tannic and structured. i guess it is down to producer style. but for me the 2006 dujac is not a wine for extended aging. also compared with the 2006 dujac beaux monts it seemed loose and blousy.
As far as I´m concerned Dominique Mugneret never made a Malconsorts - only “Au Dessus du Malconsorts” which is a different vineyard above M. - and of lesser quality imho …
Agree that the 2006 Dujacs are lighter than Montille´s (who favours a powerful style … also in his Volnays), but they (Dujac) are superior to the 2007s … I still think even the 2006 Malconsorts/Dujac is far away from (what I call) maturity - and can go (and will improve) for at least another 7-10/12 years …
Right!
And explains why it’s so often as disappointing as it is.
Cathiard gets my vote.
I have a few vintages of the elusive Hudelot Noellat, and a case + of the 1999. A really good wine, with some of the elegance I would expect from a Grand Cru candidate. Comparing to the Dujac which I know fairly well, the Dujac is slightly more complex, the Hudelot more intense. Prefer the Dujac, but marginally.
I am a huge fan of Cathiard’s Malconsorts. On release the '02 was one of my favorite young Burgs ever. Since then it has shut down hard. I look forward to trying it in 2022. Very unfortunate how the price has skyrocketed.
Dujac and Cathiard for me. FYI - the 2015 Dujac Malconsorts is the best made there per Jeremy - after tasting a couple months ago I agree. I’ve been able to try several vintages from the 60s from Villamont and Moillard which have been fantastic if sound bottles.