I was inspired to try these after reading Jim’s post on the 2016:
On paper, Malartic-Lagravière sounds like the sort of wine to send me running for the hills - quite modern, quite oaky and made with the help of Michel Rolland. Well, that’s why one needs to keep an open mind, because it’s actually very good, and so is its second wine:
La Réserve de Malartic Lagravière - Pessac-Léognan 2014
Blackberries, plus their leaves, a hint of oak and vanilla, then some red fruits on the nose, then a moderately spicy attack of the same, joined by blueberries and plums midpalate, before a cool, elegant finish of blackcurrant. Very stylish, very classy, not at all overdone and just a delightful wine. Still going strong but probably best to drink up over the next few years. 91 pts
La Réserve de Malartic Lagravière - Pessac-Léognan 2015
Blackberries again on the nose, but it leans much more towards blackcurrants, with some blueberry and sour cherry. Much the same fruits in the mouth, but very crisp and fresh, not at all like many other 2015s. Much more volume than the 2014, and still in its infancy, even if it is drinking very well. This is impressive for a second wine. 92 pts
Malartic-Lagravière - Pessac-Léognan 2014
Very similar to the 2014 Réserve in terms of the aromas and tastes, but with more of everything. Very deep and compelling, but without losing its essence, which is incredible elegance and finesse. Perhaps slightly more peppery than La Réserve, but a lot classier. 93 pts
I had started with the two Réserves over two evenings, not intending to open the top wine, but curiosity got the better of me. I was rather expecting that the Réserves would be closer in quality to the top wine, or even identical, but even if compared to the 2015 La Réserve, the gap in quality was less obvious, it was there all the same. The tannins are finer, the fruit is more pronounced, better defined, and the mouthfeel is just on a slightly higher level.
The general style of the wines is modern-classic, nothing overripe nor lush, just well-made and well-judged.
All three wines are highly recommended. La Réserve 2014 cost 15€, the 2015 18€ and the ML 2014 38€. For me the best value is the Réserve 2015, which is ridiculously cheap for the quality, but the ML 2014 is worth every penny too.
But money is money, and I’m not sure I won’t stick to La Réserve in the best vintages in the future.