I opened all bottles but the 2010 about 3 to 4 hours before we got to them. For reasons beyond my control, the 2010 was only opened about 2 hours before tasting. All bottes were sampled and I recorked them all for transport before opening them up again at the restaurant.
The tasting order ended up being: 2011, 2002, 2004, 2005, 2008 and 2010. With time and air, we could (should) have swapped 05 and 08 but overall it was a proper sequence.
Château Magdelaine 2011
Some red berries in there and I really get a kick out of the 2011. The cool herbal (mint, licorice) profile matches the savory elements (earth, cassis leaf, slight tobacco leaf) and when you get that red berry acidity on the finish it kind of brings it all together. Some minerality shows up on the finish as well. Not the best but a damn fine wine and perfect to get the tastebuds going. I really enjoy this vintage and the price makes it super attractive. Get it while you can.
Château Magdelaine 2002
On paper, this was the worst vintage. This is my third bottle of this vintage. The first one was underwhelming, the next two still had something to give. More fruit than the 2011 (red berries) and some aromatic red florals, leather on the backend. Nice bright acidity, fine powdery tannins but missing some length on the finish compared to the following vintages. I would drink up if you have any left.
Château Magdelaine 2004
One of the guests had the 2004 as their favorite of the tasting. It’s more complete than the 11 or the 02. It’s also on the red fruit spectrum (red plums showing up, some stewed berries) and it’s got nice composure from start to finish, no hollow point. Some tertiary goodness (earth, leather and touch of funk) that provides the depth and a nice long and bright finish. The tannins are still there to liven up the whole and there is a lip-smacking mineral aspect to the finish but not as present as the 11. Good wine.
Château Magdelaine 2005
Whereas the others pretty much remained constant through the tasting (the 04 might have gotten better revealing some added florals on the nose as time went by). the 05 really showed better as time went on. We’re going on the dark berry spectrum here and the tannins seemed to get bigger with air and time in bottle. It was structured but open early on and as we revisited this vintage, the tannins became more and more burly. It’s got enough of everything (fruit, acidity, tannins) to improve with time as the oak is still sticking out a bit. This is gonna be a smashing bottle of wine in a bit of time. Very good and one of the tasters had it as their favorite on the day.
Château Magdelaine 2008
My favorite on the day and it also got another top vote. This was the most harmonious of all six vintages today. Red plums, red currants, ripe raspberries, the exuberant nose might lead one to believe this will be too ripe or fruit forward but the palate is very well behaved: some earthiness, some leafy brightness, weighty mid-palate with assertive tannins but enough fruit to wrap them up. Long finish. Complex, layered and very good wine today.
Château Magdelaine 2010
This also got two top votes to tie with 08 for crowd favorite. Dark colored, dark fruited, broody tannins, heady spices, it’s a bruiser. Yet, everything that’s there in spades started coming together at the end of the tasting. I think this will develop very nicely indeed. Hold on this one or give it a ton of air but this has the stuffing to become a very complete, complex and shining Magdelaine. My last glass of this really turned me into a convert, I think 2010 is really good and is only going to get better.
In retrospect, all wines delivered and provided a great view into the different vintages. I love it when a vertical truly does vary from vintage to vintage. Otherwise, where’s the fun in a vertical. I’m still holding on to memories of the 86, 90 and 98 as my favorites but it was fun to check in on those “youngsters”.
Now can someone please tell me why the heck this got absorbed into Belair-Monange!! 
Since the ladies were not part of the six tasters at lunch, we went back to my friend’s place and opened another 08 and 04 (each one our respective favorites on the day). Those were PnP but we enjoyed them over the course of the evening. They showed accordingly to the lunch bottles but the evening 04 was a tad better than the lunch one: more evolution, more savoriness and bright red berried acidity. Very good. The 08 was delicious again.
Also,
Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus 2017
No dosage, 100% from Vertus. This is all about salinity and chalkiness. There is a slight creaminess on the mid-palate (malo induced?) that adds to the complexity and texture but otherwise this is tight and lip-smacking. Good.
Disclaimer: we sell this.