Montrachet and Musigny was our theme for a splendid lunch yesterday.

2009 Jacques Selosse Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Millésimé: Generous and complex and really in the zone. Notes of brioche, backed apple and intense citrus. It has a gentle oxidative nuttiness and fabulous depth. There’s a chalky base and superb length.

2005 Domaine Etienne Sauzet Montrachet, Grand Cru: Probably a bit more advanced than it could be, but within tolerances. There’s some Tarte Tatin and spiced peach aromas. The palate is deep, rich and layered. It has excellent underlying structure and a finish of sappy orchard fruits that drives on and on.

1978 Marquis de Laguiche (Joseph Drouhin) Montrachet, Grand Cru: Very golden but also very, very good. It has a core of tinned peaches and all sorts of interesting spice and truffle nuance. It is layered and the introduction of a dish of abalone cooked with butter and shallots brings out the wine’s saline minerality and opens up the powerful peach fruit flavours. It has great complexity and each sip unlocks something else that engages the senses.

2004 Bouchard Père et Fils Montrachet, Grand Cru: From magnum this was in magnificent condition. The colour has all sorts of green tinges and the nose was as fresh as a trout. There were whiffs of white peach, preserved lemon, celery salt and smoky mineral. The palate is direct and explosive. There are layers of spearmint cream and orchard fruit flavour and a touch of aniseed spice. It has supreme balance and such fabulous drive and length.

2009 Vincent Girardin Le Montrachet, Grand Cru: On from the get go. Plenty of brown spice to the nose along with white peach and spiced pear. The palate is rich and powerful but carrying no excess weight. It has an unctuous feel and spice notes linger once swallowed.

1961 Faiveley Musigny, Grand Cru: Sadly, this was riddled with tca. It was a good looking bottle with excellent fill and colour.

1972 Faiveley Musigny, Grand Cru: Magnificent! It was a little meaty on first inspection. A 6 hours Audouze and she was singing. It had a wonderful nose of pine needle sap, truffle, black cherry and violets. In the mouth it was deep and powerful yet light on its feet and possessing a stony mineral base. It built through the palate, fanning out on the finish with flavours lingering for a long time.

1962 Domaine Jaboulet-Vercherre Musigny, Grand Cru: A wine at its apogee. Complex aromatics of smoked meats, decaying rose, black earth and spice. The palate has a core of vinous sweetness and all sorts of complex and savoury nuances. It is silky and voluminous, with structural elements that have all but folded into the wine. The finish is delicate and so persistent. Lovely stuff.

1961 Château Doisy-Daëne, Barsac: This was so good. Complex aromatics of apricot, lavender, lanolin and toffee apple. It had just the right amount of sweetness in the mouth, with refreshing acidity as a counterpoint. There was a touch of vanilla and cinnamon and a finish of citrus rind. Orange cake with vanilla bean ice cream was this wine’s friend.


Well done.


As a surgeon, M&M to me refers to “Morbidity and Mortality” conference. It sounds like only the '61 Faively Musigny qualified.


Hi Warren,

We had a few medicos at the lunch, who universally pronounced the '61 dead on arrival.


Sounds like a brilliant lunch. Thanks for the notes.

What did you eat?

Hi Brady,

Gougères with the Champagne. Yumbah Abalone in butter and shallots with the older Montys. Ricotta stuffed courgette flowers with the younger Montys. Maggie Beer’s pheasant pies with a pheasant jus with the Musignys. A piece of Comté for cheese. Orange cake with vanilla bean ice cream with the Barsac.


Mmm, the food sounds great too! Makes the wines so much better.

Very solid lineup. Happy holidays.

M&M–wow, I could lose myself in these wines–probably only get One Shot in my lifetime to try them.

Thanks Nick, compliments of the season to you.

John, after such a big lunch, the next day I wasn’t Slim and I was looking for somewhere Shady to lie.