Our monthly lunch group met at our designated venue, The Santa Barbara Club, and dined in our private, dedicated Library Room. Our wine theme was Spanish wines to celebrate the return of our beloved Monica Nogues who has a wine import business, Think Global, here in SB, but resides in Spain. She represents many esteemed wineries in Spain including R. Lopez de Heredia,
Chef Humberto rose to the occasion as usual with a fabulous menu to pair with our wines:
First Course
Chilled avocado soup with crab and tomato croutons
Second Course
Mar y montaria paella
Third Course
Lamb stew with fingerling potatoes
Cheese Course
Manchego
Dessert
Flan y churros
We had 5 wondrous and refreshing starter wines which were quite appropriate on a very hot summer day:
2006 MESTRES CLOS NOSTRE SENYOR [the vineyard] GRAND RESERVA BRUT NATURE CATALONIA CAVA- made from 60% Xarel-lo, 20% Macabeo [Viura in Rioja] and 20% Parellada; I purchased this after consulting with Monica a year ago and this was my first time to taste it; yellow gold colour; the nose and the taste were 2 different worlds; I got a bit of an oxidative note along with fresh cut grass, hay and must in the aromatics, but bright acidic lemon lime and orange fruit in the taste; it was full bodied, rich and more expressive in the glass with time.
History shows Mestres’ was first a wine négociant in 1312. There are still documents dated 1567 in place. In 1607, documents show them as vine growers and owners naming the vineyard: “Heretat Mas Coquet”. Their winery was started in the early 1600s and finished in 1861. I find it fascinating that they are still owned by the 30th generation of the family.
They were the first producer to register the word CAVA in 1959, aiming to inform the consumer that this was a sparkling wine aged in a cellar, using the words “wines made in cellar” (vins de cava). They were the first ones to produce a cava “non-dosage” in 1945, Visol (only wine).
Today, they still use traditional methods taught by their ancestors including long ageing in caves, the youngest of their wines aged 20 months in the cave. All of the wines in their cellar are Reserva or Gran Reserva.
The are left to be full and rich and aged completely - the wines undergo a natural stabilisation process during their long ageing, so that the crystals, which form, can then be disgorged along with the yeasts. This is why 100% of their production is aged using cork, and riddling and disgorgment is done by hand for all bottles.
NV MESTRES LOS CUPAGES de MESTRES RESER4VA ESPECIAL ROSE BARCELONA- 50% Trepat, 30% Monastrell (Mourvedre) and 20% Pinot Noir; the colour was a pure rich pink; the nose and taste was redolent of fresh red raspberries noticeably lightly sweetened; some clove and strawberry also comes in; this is so refreshing and enjoyable and in no way would I get this as a Spanish sparkling rose and that’s how little I know about Spanish sparkling roses, this was really good.
2006 R. LOPEZ de HEREDIA VINA GRAVONIA CRIANZA BLANCO RIOJA- 100% Viura [Macebeo]; the use of oak and intentional partial oxidation effects this wine in every aspect with a yellow gold cloudy hue, a bit of nuttiness and honeysuckle to complement the dried apricot and peach fruit and an almost chewy, viscous texture; there’s some herbs, hay and lemon in the background; its full bodied and yet easy on the palate.
The Crianzas are aged 4 years and racked twice a year and fined with fresh egg whites. Additionally, this release was bottle unfiltered in November of 2011.
2007 R. LOPEZ de HEREDIA VINA BRAVONIA CRIANZA BLANC RIOJA- this was so different from the 06` with the nose dominated with coconut, chamomile, minerals and citrus notes which continued on and were joined by honeyed dried pear, apple and peach fruit; this was also full bodied, rich and had bracing acidity which should ensure longevity.
2008 R. LOPEZ de HEREDIA VINA TONDONIA GRAN RESERVA RIOJA ROSADO- the label stated this was a “sample”; 60% Garnacha, 30% Tempranillo, 10% Viura that was fermented together; again, it is slightly oxidised; the colour has a copper orange red tint; the nose was so inviting and the wine delivered with mild and rich toasty red fruit as well as nice floral notes; I got sone strawberry and a mild hit of red cherry with a touch of talc; this is a really nice elegant wine that is even better with a chill.
First flight of 3 reds:
2010 MUGA PRADO ENEA GRAND RESERVA RIOJA- 80% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano; very young, vibrant dark purple colour with expected youth and vitality throughout; its got all of the makings for a huge treat once more evolved; even as big as it is, there’s a gentleness in the wine that allows for enjoyment early on; the soft tannins allow for the smooth texture to carry the spicy, toasty, ripe blackberry and black cherry all the way to the back end.
2009 SENORIO de P. PECINA GRAN RESERVA RIOJA- 95% Tempranillo, 3% Garnacha and 2% Graciano; here’s another youngster running wild and rampant across my palate, but there are some redeeming qualities to enjoy at this early stage; coconut and vanilla jump out of the glass upon nosing followed by oaky, liquorice laden black raspberry, red plum and cherry on the palate; the tannins are soft and easy in this full bodied wine.
2011 P.M. MORTERA BLANCA CLUB de COSECHEROS RESERVA LA RIOJA ALTA- some new oak influence in the nose and taste along with wild cranberry and sweet red cherry all the way through; its full bodied, has lots of layered depth, has good mouthfeel and finishes with more oaky notes= talc and sandalwood.
Second flight of 3:
2005 R. LOPEZ de HEREDIA VINA BOSCONIA RESERVA RIOJA- Im a big fan of this bottling having just had the 04 and many earlier releases in the past year; its been hyped to be more “Burgundian” and relatively speaking, I guess that’s an appropriate statement; red fruit dominates this wine and in this case its cranberry, cherry and wild raspberry accented with spice and liquorice; it has a wonderful mouthfeel and taste appeal; its made from 80% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacha, 5% Mozuelo and Graciano.
2004 R. LOPEZ de HEREDIA VINA TONDONIA RESERVA RIOJA- this was very good giving up wonderful vanilla, leather, spicy dried red fruit carried in a medium to full body in a soft, tantalising textured medium which was silky smooth and so easy on the palate; the texture gave it an element of elegance, yet the wine possessed some thrust with firm tannins; as history would suggest, this will evolve toward maturity for many years to come; it`s close to being balanced; a blend of 75% Tempranillo, 15% Grenacha, 10% Graciano and Mazuela.
2005 R. LOPEZ de HEREDIA VINA TONDONIA RESERVA RIOJA- 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, 5% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo; in comparison to the 04`, this had more power and pizzaz and yet still had some grace and charm; spicy, vanilla, toasty red and dark fruit are carried across the palate in a pleasing silky smooth texture; it has layers upon layers unfolding, each one revealing a new and unexpected treasure.
Third flight of 7:
2005 VINA CERRADA GRAN RESERVA RIOJA- initially I got some earthy, medicinal character in the nose that fortunately dissipated and gave way to nice cherry fruit enhanced by dollops of spicy blackberry and blueberry fruit with some hints of leather and liquorice; it had nice balance, good feel and length.
2001 FAUSTINO GRAN RESERVA RIOJA- 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano, 5% Mazuelo; dark purple colour; this showed it has evolved nicely and moved into a fine state of excellence with inviting aromatics, a pleasant taste profile, a great creamy mouthfeel and a long, sustained finish; more specifically, it gave generous amounts of fresh and rich red and black cherry with a supporting cast of clove, vanilla, tobacco and spice. One of my favs on the day.
For those familiar with this bottling, it is readily recognised by its frosted glass and wire security. The very distinct label has a 1641 portrait of Dutch merchant/trader Nicolaas Van Bambeeck done by Rembrandt. This particular portrait was chosen in order to symbolise the family’s passions for both art and commerce.
1980 R. LOPEZ de HEREDIA VINA TONDONIA GRAN RESERVA RIOJA- noticing the vintage, I expected this to be evolved and at least having a secondary fruit profile, but that was not the case as this gave wonderful fresh, vibrant primary red and black cherry, plum and blueberry with accents of spice and liquorice; it had a marvellous texture and welcomed length; the colour was an unexpected dark red purple with no bricking or ageing signs. When I reviewed all of the wines at the end, this was my first vote for WOTD, but another vote comes up later.
2005 MUGA PRADO ENEA GRAN RESERVA RIOJA- 80% Tempranilo, 20% Mazuelo, Graciano and Garnacha; I was very happy to have another bottle of this consistently fine release as we had the 10 earlier; this was sooo good and followed 2 winners to complete the triad; its very young and energetic and yet has grace and elegance; blueberry, black cherry and black currant fruit dominated the fruit profile with help from vanilla, chocolate and talc; it had remarkable balance at this young age and promises to give great joy down the line.
1999 PUELLES GRAN RESERVA RIOJA- this had a still youthful colour; in the nose and taste there is lots of oak influence providing vanilla and sandalwood accents to the delicious cranberry and red cherry fruit; it had a soft and smooth texture and enough structure to sustain it for the long run; very nice.
1994 CUNE [CVNE] IMPERIAL COMPANIA VINICOLA del NORTE de ESPANA GRAN RESERVA RIOJA- CVNE in Spanish is the abbreviation for Compania Vinicola del Norte de Espana; this is quite youthful as have been almost all others on this day, even the 80` LdH; leather, chocolate and spice add to the ripe, mature expressions of blackberry and black currant with a dollop of cedar coming in late; it was rich and lush on the palate and had a long, palate pleasing finish.
1995 R. LOPEZ de HEREDIA VINA TONDONIA GRAN RESERVA- 80% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacho, 5% Mazuelo and Graciano; 12% by vol; OMG, this just had it all; the colour was a still youthful vibrant dark red purple; the nose had such welcoming aromas of spices and fruit and suggestIve of a a big and full throttled wine which as it turns out was misleading; it has some power, but more finesse; its silky texture added to its allure; this is elegant and stately at the same time; spicy and leather infused red cherry, red berry and cranberry are most evident with a hit of ginger late; I just have to call this my tied WOTD with the LdH 80.
Fourth flight of 4:
1970 BERBERANA CARTA de ORO RESERVA RIOJA- this comes from this winery founded in 1877; we finally have a wine showing some age both in colour and taste; tertiary dried red fruit prevails in the nose with leather, spice and a bit of sweetness on the palate; it was medium bodied and faded rather quickly at the end; nonetheless, it was enjoyable and I appreciate it gave all it had.
I`m omitting notes on a wine that’s label was somewhat illegible other than to state it was a “light red wine from Rioja". The one who brought it mentioned it was at least 50 years old. The label was for sure.
2006 PEREZ PASCUAS GRAN SELECTION GRAN RESERVA RIBERA del DUERO- finally a wine from RdD and a good one at that albeit really young, spunky and highly energetic; it had a deep dark purple colour to warn of the intensity of all to follow; the nose had sandalwood, leather, liquorice and chocolate infused blackberry, blueberry and plum; it was full bodied and had a viscous texture; although good now, it needs a lot fo time to balance out and come together.
2008 AALTO RIBERA del DUERO- another spry youngster that is full of energy and has all of the stuffing to please once it has at least reached puberty; it has serious black and blue concentrated fruit, smooth tannins and a backbone of acidity to go the long distance.
Our 2 dessert wines:
2014 CUNE [CVNE] COMPARIA VINICOLA del NORTE de ESPANA MONOPOLE CLASICO BLANCO SECO RIOJA- I believe this is made from 100% Viura, but there may be other white grapes blended in; I also think I heard it is first made in concrete tanks before being aged in stainless steel so this is an anomaly for this day as it would be one of a few with no oak involved; everything was somewhat muted, but I did decipher some minerality and fresh cut white flowers amidst some spritziness.
ALVEAR PEDRO XIMENEZ 1830 SOLERA- 500 ml; 11.5% abv; the oldest and most concentrated sweet wine from Alvear, circa 1729; It is made of sun-dried grapes with a subsequent oxidative ageing which follows the criadera and solera system with few extractions and only replacing the decrease of wine in the bottle; it was inky black like molasses and the taste and texture emulated black molasses even more; when I went to pour it, it almost came out in drops; a little drop will do ya.
Wowza! If tasting through 24 Spanish wines in conjunction with eating 5 sizeable courses isn’t a challenge, taking notes and conversing around the table certainly can make it such for most folks and on this day, me. And I loved it and always learn so much just writing up the notes and researching some of the background information.
And now its time to continue to re-hydrate before a big deal dinner [last night] celebrating Mick Grammers return to the West Coast with serious top class wines next up.
Life is good.
Cheers,
Blake
