When we returned from Italy in January of this year, no sooner did we step into our home did my son ask if we could go back to Italy soon. I promised him that I would make it happen, and so two weeks ago we were on a plane to Lugano.
We had not visited Lugano in ages, and it was good to return to a city that I have many fond memories of, especially at this time of year. Lugano is eminently walkable, and one can see just about everything in the city center in two hours. There is a festive spirit here during the holidays, as evidenced by the number of people that congregate in the Christmas market located in the main square eating, drinking and socializing in the evenings. That the entire city is lit up simply adds to the comraderie.
The most stunning sight we experienced occurred one morning when a light rain created a mist over Lake Lugano and the surrounding mountains. We took an afternoon boat cruise, and when the boat returned to dock at dusk, the way the lights of the city reflected on the lake with the mist hanging overhead is a sight I shall not forget anytime soon. Hauntingly beautiful.
We stayed in the Luganodante Hotel, and if you arrive by train, its location cannot be equaled. From the train station one takes the tram that lets you off right in front of the hotel. From the station to the tram to the hotel, it took 5 minutes! The Swiss and the Ticinese know a thing or two about hospitality. The service at the Luganodante is impeccable, as is the breakfast spread they put out in the morning. Iāve never seen anything like it.
Seven nights in Florence were next. The first half of December, January and February are the only times we travel to Italy during which time the only language one hears is Italian. The iconic Ponte Vecchio was empty of visitors morning, afternoon, evening and night. The Palazzo Vecchio, Duomo, Piazza de la Repubblica, Pitti Palace and all of the sights that are crowded during the spring and summer are also empty of visitors. And on the fashionable Via Tornabuoni, the only ones shopping are the matrons of Florentine aristocracy. If you are here on a Sunday, go to the Santo Spirito neighborhood for its outdoor flea and food market and mom and pop trattorie. Tourists do not usually come to this part of the city although its not that far from the city center.
Florence is an outdoor museum as many have described it. If you are a history buff, especially of Florentine and Renaissance history, this is the place. If you adore Renaissance art, this is the place. And just for good measure, one can spend the better part of a day in the Uffizi Gallery.
Florence is decked out in holiday lights from mid-November to mid-January. How beautiful this city is from dusk to evening. Just as the mist hanging over Lugano was unforgettable, the view from the Ponte San Trinita to the Ponte Vecchio is stunning at dusk. It reminded me of the view of the Grand Canal from the Accademia Bridge in Venice.
One eats and drinks very well in Florence. Ditta Artigianale is our go to place for coffee. Not just any coffee, but single origin beans sourced from all of the coffee growing regions of the world. The baristi here know their craft.
What trip to Florence would be complete without two dinners at Pitti Gola e Cantina? I arranged two white truffle meals with Shannon two weeks before arrival. The quality of the truffles is high, filling the room with that particular aroma that is indescribable. Both dinners we accompanied by a 2016 Barolo from Fanti, preceded by a delicious sparkling wine from the Veneto.
My hidden gem is Il Parione, located slightly away from the city center. Traditional Tuscan cooking at a high level, and the cellar is deep. Porcini were in season on both occasions we were there. And lest I forget, the bistecca alla fiorentina is everything it should be - cooked rare (because the Chianina breed of cattle is remarkable low in fat) tender and full of flavor. The owner and his family are nice people, and service is warm and informal.
We rented a spacious two bedroom apartment from the Lungarno Hotel. The building that houses the four apts is steps away from the hotel entrance. Apt. guests receive all of the amenities and privileges of hotel guests except breakfast - daily housekeeping, concierge service, etc. No detail is overlooked here, and service is impeccable. We wouldnāt stay anywhere else.