Let It Gros: Two '12 Bourgogne Rouge

Decided to take test drive of the 2012 vintage with abake-off between two siblings in the Gros clan. I tried two different Bourgogne Hautes de Cotes Nuits last night. They look identical – deep, clear ruby – but their flavor profiles differ significantly:

Gros Frere Expressive nose, with notes of char and saline. Good concentration and amply fruited – sour dark cherry. Crunchy fruit and slightly chewy mouthfeel that reminds me of a well-made cru Beaujolais a bit. Bit of a hole in middle but nice finish with cleansing acidity. Open for business tonight and very good at this level.

A.-F. Gros Bit more muted nose, with hints of rose. Also generously fruited, with a plummy note mixed in with dark berries. Rounder mouthfeel and just a touch more elegance. Not as savory and earthy as the Frere, but just a bit more refined. Still holding something in reserve.

The Gros Frere offers more immediate pleasure, but the A.-F. Gros has more upside in my opinion. The A.-F. 2005 Bourgogne has been singing the past few months (a great cellar defender!), so I’d be curious to see how this unfurls in 5-plus years.

With the short crops these past few years and worldwide demand for Burgundy, prices continue to rise even for these basic bottlings (roughly $35). I kind of feel like I’m trapped between a rock and a hard place at this price point for basic Bourgogne. I can’t help but think that I can get more pinot value and pleasure elsewhere, and save my money for fewer but higher-up-the-food chain Burgs. These feel more like one-offs as outliers/indicators rather than something I would buy in multiples.

nice to Gros a pair.

Matthew, nice notes.

Last week I went to a very good tasting of '12s from Gros Frere, Anne Gros (not AF) and Michel Gros. (if I get time, I’ll post some notes). The overall standard right through the ranges was good. The Gros Frere house style was as you describe for the Bourgogne, a big, expressive, rich, overtly oaked style (but good with it). The star of the show (for me anyway) was the Anne Gros Maupertui, clean, pure and refined (although the Richebourg wasn’t offered for tasting).

The prices of all of these wines are definitely drifting up as you say, unfortunately.

A-F Gros are relatively slightly cheaper here, but I have not tried any of her '12s.

Don’t see it here very much any longer, but I always thought A-F Gros Hautes Cotes offered better value than the Bourgogne.
Great cellar defender.

AF Gros Hautes Cotes ‘10 in stock, $29. Drinkin’ pretty damn well.
I stopped working with AF Gros after the '10 vintage. Pricing just kept rising, dramatically so in fact.
For a Vosne value Bourgogne, from les Croix Blanches: Michel Noellat '12. $23. Vast majority of folks have loved it, I think somebody posted a note about it on Berserkers a few months ago.
Anne Gros just doesn’t do it for me.