I just received three bottles of Vosne-Romanée „Les Gaudichots“ 1er cru 2009 – Michel Saban (Caves du Palais – Nuits-St-Georges).
The bottles are numbered 2016/2017/2018 – and the label reads:
Mis en bouteille au Domaine
pour Michel Saban – Caves du Palais –
Cuvée Privée Limitée - Vieilles Vignes
As I understand it there are some relationships between Saban and Machard de Gramont – so I suppose the wine comes somehow from the holdings of the latter in „Gaudichots“ – most probably bottled at MdGramont … and sold in bottles. I always though they might have sold a single barrel …
Les Gaudichots had originally 5.66 ha.
In 1936 4.63 ha were added to „La Tâche“ and classified Grand Cru.
From the remaining 1.03 ha two parcels with (together) 0.23 ha were incorporated into „La Grande Rue“ (which increased from 1.42 to 1.65 ha) and became also Grand Cru in 1992.
According to the great book „The Pearl of the Côte“ by Burghound Allen Meadows „Les Gaudichots“ now has only 0.80 ha with (since 2007/08) four proprietors:
Regis FOREY (0.30 ha),
Domaine DUJAC (0.24 ha – used for his „Malconsorts“ like Moillard did it before, never declared as Gaudichots),
Machard de GRAMONT (0.20 ha),
DRC (0.08 ha – never bottled by the domaine itself, either sold to negociants or used themselves for the „Cuvee Duvault-Blochet 1er Cru").
Ok – that´s 0.82 ha … (?)
If Saban/MdGramont really made more than 2000 bottles that means he had at least seven barrels with 228 litre (=1596 litre). That means – at high yields of 40 hl/ha – a yielding surface of at least 0.40 ha – double the total parcel of MdGramont.
In addition a tiny parcel of 0.052 ha at the bottom of Gaudichots is classified „Village“ – also farmed by MdG.
Even if he has used this parcel (illegally, which I don´t think) – and moreover he had purchased the total Gaudichots wine from DRC (which I also don´t think) this would not be enough to produce 2000+ bottles.
BTW: there is definitely also a Gaudichots by MdGramont in 2009.
Possibilities:
- the bottle numbers are totally wrong
- the bottle numbers cover all the bottled Gaudichots (also with MdGramont labels), but even then it doesn´t work out …
- the bottle numbers mean the total bottles of Michel Saban (also incl. other Crus) … seems possible …
- Jesus went to the cellar of MdGramont …
Any ideas?
His numbering scheme doesn’t start at 0000? Maybe the 2 signifies something, and you have bottles 16, 17 and 18?
1 Like
Well, that´s an idea … (but who knows … possible, not very probable… )
Thanks.
I’ve been trying to track down information on the semi-mysterious Machard de Gramont’s Gaudichots (I tried a 2013 and it was very good). I returned to this thread because I stumbled over the Domaine du Palais website where they have info about Saban’s Gaudichots: https://www.domaine-du-palais.com/pommard-1er-cru [The website is pretty goofy - that URL might say pommard, but it’s info about vosne romanee]
And there’s a photo of the 2017 in barrel - at least 5 of them. More than I expected.
I visited a few years back. We stated at Domaine du Palais - which has a shop front in NSG near the parking, on the left as you drive into town from Beaune - and also went to the cellar. Information was very opaque and I left with no greater understanding of how they access some of the smarter Crus in the cellar. Sorry to report that the wines were pretty filthy almost across the board.
1 Like
I believe it - there’s something about the Domaine du Palais photos and website that screams the NSG version of a Temecula destination winery - and there’s just about zero info up there about their methods. There was speculation about this being the same wine as Machard’s and based on what I tasted (and other CT notes) I think they’re separate. Maybe they sell some of their grapes or lease some vines? In any case, Machard de Gramont doesn’t have a website, and learning about them is complicated by the attention currently paid to the other Machard de Gramont run by Axelle + Bertrand. I continue to be curious whether the Machard Gaudichots is made with care or a more industrial philosophy.
1 Like
Gerhard (whom I´ve met once many years ago and who is highly educated in wine and especially Burgundy) and seems to be the expert on this matter.
All I can say: if it is correct that Forey owns 0.3 ha, Gramont 0,2 ha, Dujac 0,24 ha (not bottled seperately) and DRC 0,08 ha (the same) – there is usually no way that Gramont can have 5 barrels (with 228 litre each = 1140 litre) of one vintage in the cellar from the own holdings. That would mean yields of 57 hl per ha which by far exceeds the legal amout which is 48 ha for Premier Cru.
However 2017 was a very high yielding vintage, maybe the authorities allowed much more than the avagage annual yields as an exception – others might know.
I´ve had Gaudichots by Gramont and Forey 2 or 3 times – Gramont is/was very good and quite elegant while Forey was more structured, a bit rustic, more concentrated but kind of too young. Both I would not call really great wines.
Never had Domaine du Palais.
1 Like
