For years, this was one of our go to restaurants for great food and reasonable corkage policies. Run by one of the top chefs in the City, Christian Delouvrier, he was an exacting taskmaster, the food was always excellent, sometimes brilliant. Christian retired at the end of last year, and we held our respective breaths. I had one excellent meal there, but somehow our lunches, usually weekly affairs, were a little less frequent, this year.
So yesterday, I went back. We brought wine, a corked Latour 1979, a decent but slightly fruitless Haut Brion from the same vintage, a NSG PC from Potel, the best wine there. But all overshadowed by the excellence of the food.
Served family style, we began with the Charcouterie plate, pates, smoked duck breast sliced ultra thin, salamis all accompanied by cornichons and a fine mustard. This was followed by some glorious snails, perfectly cooked in garlic and finely chopped tomato (not something I have seen before, but it gave the garlic butter, a little counterbalancing acidity).
Three more dishes; the roast chicken of course, arguably the best in NY, rabbit in a Burgundy sauce and a beef stew. Accompanying were plates of fries, cauliflower gratin and macaroni cheese, made with Comte. And a perfect, simple salad. Comfort food certainly, but at its best. Service is good, glassware ample, and the ambience easy. A wonderful place to spend a Friday lunch.