Kevin Tang of the Hong Kong Wine Society organized a small gathering of members to dine with Fabian Schwarz, winemaker of La Magia. Lunch was at a Carnevino, a swish Italian steakhouse on Queens Rd in Central, Hong Kong. Apart from good wines, food and company, it was great to see what my friends in finance get up to over lunch- a few too many before wandering back and doing whatever they do.
La Magia Rosso di Montalcino 2011- This is in a fruity bistro style. Warm, almost pungent sangiovese aromas and flavors. Easy drinking where the bright acidity amplifies the prettiness of the fruit and promoting the wine beyond its simplicity.
86pts
La Magia Brunello di Montalcino 2008- The hot vintage shows up in this wine though the vineyard’s elevation mitigated this somewhat. The aromas mix up well in the glass, a perfumed spice on malty ripe blackfruits. Full bodied with a supple delicacy on the edges, lacks concentration but a good drink all the same. Crafted finish- tannin profile is elegant and the mature vines give a good persistence of flavor.
89pts
La Magia Brunello di Montalcino 2007- This wine evolved with sophistication over lunch; very likable! Cacao and red plums, fresh leather and a vegetal touch. Creamy palate richness with the depth of fruit showing early complexity. Drinking well though will be better in 5+
91pts+
La Magia Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2007- 80% new wood from the best vineyard parcels in the good vintages. Released on the 6th year since vintage. Perfumed and with some polish; a myriad of black fruits with shades of violets and red plums. Closed and needing time to develop.The tannins linger, fine yet persistent.
92pts+
La Magia Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2004 - Very exotic. Nutty-cocoa oak and dark fruits are rather divine. Muscled edges needing a few years to soften, excellent approachability. Fruit rounds out and fills the palate. Excellent persistence echoing the nose.
93pts+
La Magia Brunello di Montalcino 2001- Probably a bit shaken up on a long flight as the palate was gritty and this was a tannic wine on release according to Fabian ( though he wasn’t the winemaker ). The aromas are superb with spicy plum fruit, violets, Turkish Delight which evolve toward a varietal purity. I think this is a very good wine even with the shake up. But it would be unfair to rate it other than to say I would love to try a rested bottle.
I liked these wines as they were not overdone and had elegance and cleanliness. Sure the Riservas showed some wood but it was complimentary in its style.
