On Saturday a group of wine-journalists, wine-merchants and friends came together for the yearly barrel-tasting „Jungweinprobe“ at the estate Keller.
The tasting clearly showed that 2022 is the best vintage ever in Germany for Pinot/Spätburgunder, period.
2023 Riesling was in my view also an outstanding vintage, at least at the estate Keller. Key to the success of the vintage 2023 was to reduce the harvest yield in June. As a consequence you had more concentration, playfulness and less heat stress according to KP.
But as they are my first 23s, so I cannot make a general judgement for all german estates and regions at this stage, but it looks very very promising. Of course we will find out only in 10-20 years how the vintage is ranked among the other vintages at the estate Keller.
Finally, the tasting confirmed my impressions from last year that the son Felix Keller is the bright new star on the german wine-sky. He has this special magic touch regarding sparkling wines, Chardonnay and Pinot.
Vintage report by the estate Keller via Google translation:
„In addition to will and passion, a good bit of luck was also required in 2023 in order to be able to harvest the best qualities, because there were two hailstorms on the 25th.
August and September 12th, with grains the size of golf balls, missed our vineyards by just a few kilometers. As much as we are happy about our own wines in the cellar, we are also thinking about our friends and colleagues, who will have far less fond memories of the 2023 vintage.
Our goal with the 2023 vintage was to further refine our work in the vineyard through even more manual work on the vine. Never before have we stood there for more hours
vineyard than last year. For the first time, we also had to cultivate Pinot Noir plots with planting densities of up to 20,000 vines per hectare exclusively by hand; only an old seated plow that we restored helped with the cultivation. A great feeling!
Since the phylloxera catastrophe around 1850 and its devastating consequences for viticulture, the main issue in Europe (but also worldwide) has been the question of how to produce more wine with less effort. But that wasn’t my parents’ goal when they began planting Riesling vines from the Saar in Upper Hubacker 50 years ago, which produced far less yield but had brilliant qualities. My wife and I have consistently pursued this path with the entire cellar team, and we are very happy that our son Felix also carries this fire within him. How can we help the reputation of German winemaking get back to where it was over 150 years ago? This is the question that we focus on and that we want to align our work with. The most important basics are: respect for the soil, patience, humility, discipline and the belief that nature
gives us many steps as if by itself if we just look closely and observe. It was the same again in the class of 2023, which had no shortage of challenges.
The year started with winter months that didn’t really feel like winter: too warm and too dry. Only half of the normal precipitation fell at the beginning of the year, but we had 70 percent more hours of sunshine than the long-term average (which was at least good for our photovoltaic system!). At the same time, I had an uneasy feeling. Because if the temperatures in February and March are too spring-like and the vines
are lured out of winter dormancy too early, frosts can quickly destroy the first tender greenery. Fortunately, the rainfall increased in the coming weeks and April remained cool and wet. The Riesling vines’ budding was postponed until May 1st, so at least we didn’t have to worry about late frosts. Each year, budding determines the starting point for the vine’s further growth and development phases. The temperatures became significantly more summery from May onwards and we had to hurry to keep
up with the rapidly growing foliage in the vineyard. Blossoming occurred around June 5th for Burgundy varieties and around June 10th for Riesling.
A little later than in recent years. It stayed warm and dry until the last week of July: downy mildew had no chance due to the dry weather, but powdery mildew (Oidium) continued to keep us on our toes. Here, timely spraying with biological agents and a lot of manual work on the vine prevented problems from occurring.
*At the end of July the long-awaited rain finally fell. Just in time, because the vine needs a lot of energy in this phase of vegetation. August was a bitter month for everyone who loves warm, mild summer evenings in the garden while barbecuing. *
A real disappointment. It was too cool and far too humid, but that was exactly what our grapes needed to ripen long and slowly and develop the finest aromas. Just when we had the feeling that we had really done everything in the vines for the next good vintage, a storm front appeared on August 25th, exactly 6 years to the day after the bad hail in Westhofen in 2017. This time the thunderstorm with hail only missed us by a few kilometers, but it caused serious damage in the neighboring communities. Just got lucky again…
At the beginning of September, the must weights for Riesling were still significantly lower than the previous year, and the acid values were two to three grams per liter higher: an almost ideal starting point if September were to play along with lots of sun and little rain. As if on order, imperial weather arrived from September onwards and we were able to quickly start the sparkling wine harvest in Zellerweg am Schwarzen Herrgott. On September 8th we cut the last grapes for sparkling wine in the Rotenberg in Wachenheim and were thrilled with the qualities that flowed from our basket press. From the 8th to the 15th.
The Pinot Noir harvest lasted from September in Morstein, Bürgel, Frauenberg and the Zellerweg am Schwarzen Herrgott. White Burgundy and Sylvaner followed in the best conditions from September 20th to 25th and we quickly approached the Riesling harvest, which was completed with great grapes in the 2023 vintage on October 2nd. A very intensive harvest season, which shows that the harvest window is not getting bigger in times of climate change, but rather smaller. Only with a fantastic team of employees and friends is it possible to always be on the vines when the grapes are perfectly ripe!“
2020 Grand Cuvée Sekt brut nature No. 002
Breathtaking, what a wonderful sparkling wine/Sekt by Felix. Based on 50% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir and 15% Meunier. Such elegant and light at its feet „leichtfüßig/schwebend“. Finesse „Feinheit“ all over with flavors of blossoms. In addition freshness based on a sublime acidity and huge length. Mmmmh…….I could easily drink 2-3 bottles the night.
2018 Zellerweg am schwarzen Hergott - Chardonnay Sekt brut nature
Here we have a new vineyard to the Keller portfolio. Totally different style, much more wild. Quite rough and it is something to chew in the mouth. A real character sparkling wine. Very promising vineyard in the years ahead.
soil of Zellerweg am Schwarzen Hergoot - first clay, then limestone
2023 Riesling „von der Fels“
Clearly one of the best vdF ever made together with 2017 and 2021. Hugely dominated by KIRCHSPIEL in the vintage 2023. Flavors of mint and blossoms. I love the finesse „Feinheit“, elegance and in general the floral characteristic. Of course you will also observe a sublime minerality in the background.
As my friend Michael Quentel correctly stated, this wine is pure „wine socialism“. For only (!) 25€ you will get GG-quality and it is available&affordable for almost everyone
2023 Kirchspiel GG
WOW
I was so flashed by Kirchspiel that I forgot to make notes. On the other hand maybe you’re relieved that I spare you with my superlatives. 
But I can assure you that my fellow tasters next to me were also quite excited by 2023 Kirchspiel GG.
If you have the chance to buy it, don’t miss it.
2023 Oberer Hubacker GG
Quite difficult to taste at the moment. Let us re-visit the wine after bottling.
2023 Abtserde GG
I am a big fan of Abtserde. I will always love the wine for its elegance&finesse. Last year the Abtserde was terrific, but this year it is even a notch better.
I was not alone with that view. In addition an impressive clarity, length and „Feinheit“.
2023 Morstein GG
In contrast Morstein is all about minerality. A huge&deep and dark minerality arrives in waves. Smoky, herbal and the wine is introverted „er ruht in sich“. OM
2023 Hipping GG
Surprise, surprise, the Hipping is ready for business. Already such open and charming right now. Everything is on the right place with lovely salty flavors. Really nice presence on the palate.
I have to admit that in the last years I neglected Hipping a little bit, but this year it is very convincing and I have to praise him.
2023 Pettenthal GG
Very closed right now. Re-taste in autumn.
2023 Schubertslay GG „alte Reben“ - Mosel
WOTN
The structure given by the old vines is mind-blowing. Never-ending length and what a depth and balance. Goosebumps
I think it will be an auction wine?! Go to the auction and take a sip.
2023 G-Max
Very reserved at the moment. Again, re-tasting in autumn.
2023 Sylvaner „Feuervogel“
In contrast to previous vintages much more elegant and slim. Classic charming fruit „Schmelz“ of the Sylvaner grape, but this year more freshness and subtle „Feinheit“.
Really good.
2023 Sylvaner „vom Austernfels“
Best Sylvaner in Germany. The purity&precision and salty minerality makes you speechless. Very limited production and not available on the market.
Rhyolite (volcanic) and limestone (derived from oyster fossils) soils. Only 0.2 ha near the border of the Nahe region, former Neu-Bamberg Schlossberg.
2023 Weisser Burgunder&Chardonnay
Quite wild at this stage, but promising.
2023 „alte Reben“ Reserve
60% Chardonnay and 40% Weisser Burgunder. Great punch, but also lovely creamy. Good minerality and acidity in the finish. Perfect food-wine. BestBuy
2022 Chardonnay Réserve du fils
Dances like a ballerina over your palate. 30% new barrels and 70% used barrels. 7 years old vines. The soil is first clay and then limestone. Fascinating elegance and minerality. According to my french neighbour at the tasting, it reminds him on Batard-Montrachet with the focus on Batard.
2022 Bürgel GG
Now we come to the Reds. As I said before, best vintage ever for german Pinot/Spätburgunder. You could taste it in the quality of the fruit and also more depth&complexity.
Bürgel is always charming&bewitching and offers huge drinking pleasure. In 2022 you will discover more finesse than last years, not only to the vintage conditions, but it seems also to the new french Massale. Always great joy to drink.
2022 Frauenberg GG
What a bouquet, oh la la. Remarkable spiceness and body. More depth and length than the Bürgel before. Fine, fine………
2022 Morstein GG „Felix“
Brilliant. Everything is perfectly intertwined. Freshness, body, harmony&balance and lenght&depth. In addition with a seductive velvety texture. Mmmmh………one of the best german Spätburgunder out there.
2022 Zellerweg am Schwarzen Hergott GG
the next big thing
This relatively new project has BIG potential. Quite a challenging wine with its huge grip&tannins, but there was something special in it that makes me believe it is a legend in the making. Hard to find the right words.
Just for the record from 2018-2021 it was called „Réserve du fils“, but after 5 vintages starting with 2022 it could be called „Zellerweg am Schwarzen Hergott“ GG.
Sorry for my superlatives and enthusiasm regarding my impressions from the „Jungweinprobe“. But there is something special in the making, a kind of transformation process /generation change with the bigger role&influence of Felix which was already noticeable last year. Exciting times ahead.
For me, and this is of course a very subjective view, one of the best vdF, Kirchspiel, Abtserde, Hipping, Schubertslay ever produced together with the Reds.
Bottom-line, another terrific job and huge success by the Keller family.
P.S.
I had a conversation with a good friend who works for one the biggest wine-merchands in Germany. Of course he has also tasted much more 2023er than I did. Anwyay he confirmed my impressions regarding 2023 based on my tasting at the estate Keller.
It looks like that 2023 is a coherent&balanced and polished vintage for the good and Top winemakers in Germany. The acidity is a bit rounder, but definitely does not lack acidity. More acidity than 2022, but not as sharp as 2021. It was the overall feeling that everything is on the right place regarding 2023.
