Don’t see a lot of discussion of JLL here on WB.
I became a subscriber early this year as I was looking for more information on the Rhone. Have Very much appreciated the context he sets in his notes and his Reasonable scoring.
TLDR - More focus on vertical back vintage tastings and book work. Less focus on broad new vintage coverage.
— John’s Note—
VERTICAL TASTINGS, NEW N RHONE DOMAINES, JLL NEWS
1 JANUARY 2025
A happy and correctly bibulous 2025 to all subscribers. I look back here on some of the 2024 work for drinkrhone, and also have some personal news at the end of this email.
VERTICALS IN 2024
I attended three important verticals in 2024. These can be found under the tab WINES & TASTINGS, subtab LEGENDARY RHÔNES, and are a good read for those who like history and context. A vertical for me is not a chance to discover new vintages as it is for most tasters – it is a chance to revisit wines I tasted sometimes decades ago, which allows me to provide an all-important perspective on the evolution of the domaine and its vintages. They amount to displays of the patrimony of the Rhône Valley.
It is often the lesser vintages that are the compelling revelations of such tastings, by the way. Do not be fooled into thinking that only the most acclaimed years are worth buying. Those of you who have read my scribblings for years will know that I am a staunch defender of vintages written off by the wine press blob.
CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE CLOS DU MONT-OLIVET 1988-2022
One of the most consistent, genuine domaines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, whose largely old Grenache-based wines evolve and age extremely well. The 1980 is still in great shape, as is the 1978, wines I have chez moi. The Sabon family never gave into the body building style of the rampant Parkerised years, so finesse has always featured here.
CÔTE-RÔTIE DOMAINE ROSTAING CÔTE BLONDE 1978-2020
With roots in the Marius Gentaz and Albert Dervieux domaines – René Rostaing married Albert’s daughter Christiane Dervieux – this vineyard in four tiny plots amounts to a tremendous heritage just above the village of Ampuis. This was a remarkable tasting, giving full insight to the noblesse of a magical terroir. One of the more dramatic take-outs was how the density had increased from the 2015 vintage, as solar influences increased in years such as 2017, 2018 and 2019.
CHÂTEAU-GRILLET
Since the Artemis acquisition in 2011, I had not visited Grillet. I recall trying to, but not being granted a time or rendezvous. I was probably regarded as dangerous, if the Paul Jaboulet Aîné-Jacques Frey model was to be followed. Then I just let it drift. In the meantime, the vineyard moved to organic, and much improved care.
This was a London tasting that assembled 2014-2018, with the Baratin-Canet family vintages of 2009, 2007, 2006, 2004 and 2001. The Artemis vintages that most fitted their ingrained Bordeaux-style approach were the cool years of 2016 and 2014. Grillets will continue to age well – that aspect has not been lost.
I delved into the history and my experience of Grillet from 50 years ago, so I hope this provides a good read as well.
NEWLY VISITED NORTHERN RHÔNE DOMAINES IN 2024
DOMAINE GOUDARD & FILLES, SAINT-JOSEPH
Well placed vineyards above Tournon. Low intervention winemaking. Promise.
JULIEN MERLIN, CONDRIEU, ST JO, IGP
2022 debut, younger son of François. Neat Condrieu, St Jo blanc, fine IGP Syrah.
BRYAN DELEU, CONDRIEU, ST JO, IGP, VIN DE FRANCE
Based at Condrieu, owns or rents 8 hectares, marked promise across the range.
OLIVIER BERAUD, ST JO
Genuine country wines from above Saint-Pierre de Boeuf.
BERNARD & NICOLAS GARAYT, ST JO, CÔTE-RÔTIE, CONDRIEU
Based at Limony, still planting, 2.1 ha St Jo, 1.8 ha Condrieu. Some promise, more to come.
DEGACHE FRÈRES, CÔTE-RÔTIE, CONDRIEU, IGP
South sector Rôtie at Semons, good address, also IGP Syrah.
ROMAIN D’ANIELLO, ST JO, CONDRIEU
7 ha, above Serrières. Good whites, inc Viognier, also the Papy St Jo red. Works chez Y Cuilleron.
SÉBASTIEN MICHELAS, CROZES, CORNAS, HERMITAGE
Ex Michelas St Jemms, which was bought by Perrin. 1st year 2023. Plot specific approach, organic wines, good quality, also Cornas, Hermitage rouge.
JLL NEWS
2022 was the 50th Rhône vintage I have covered since my debut in June, 1973. I feel it is now time to ease back from attempting to cover as many domaines and wines as possible. My recent October/November 2024 trip meant 21 straight days of work, an immense amount of fact, comment and detail involved. To write that all up will take me three times as long – around nine weeks, with a constant obligation to do what I can when I have a spare moment. Health setbacks, such as in December, 2024, add to the general pressure.
I wish to enjoy more free time, and also to be able to consider updating The Wines of the Northern Rhône, seeing if I can put together a Wines of the Southern Rhône, and look at a book of memoirs seen through the prism of 50+ years of Rhône history. Books, and their legacy, are the next step, just as they were my first step back in the 1970s.
I will continue to visit some prominent or start-up domaines, and conduct verticals, which, as stated above, assume greater relevance when one has the many years of experience on board. For now, I will complete the coverage of each Northern Rhône appellation’s 2023 vintage, and will post a 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape blanc review. Any new tastings will be logged, as usual, under Latest Tasting Notes, the subtab of Wines & Tastings.
For subscribers wishing to call a halt, please go to your PayPal page and cancel the automatic renewal option for the subscription to drinkrhone. I will always be happy to refund anyone who renews by mistake.
If you have any questions, please drop me a line. I will still offer advice or comment to those who contact me henceforth, as I have responded over the decades.
Thank you all for your support over these many years. I hope you have enjoyed the ride as much as me.
BON COURAGE to all from John