I have been meaning to share some travel notes on a holiday trip to Japan (mainly Osaka, Kyoto and Ishikawa pref). My partner is from Osaka and still has a family there, so we were able to leverage some local knowhow. The unusually strong dollar nudged us to go big on several indulgent culinary excursions. I always feel lucky to get an insider tour of an incredible food and wine area. I have spent the last 30 years living in NYC and the SF Bay area and truly feel that Japan’s food/restaurant scene is on another level. Here are a few wine highlights from this trip.
Washu Bar Engawa, in Yamakana Onsen, Ishikawa pref
Stayed at Hanamurasaki, a ryokan in Yamanaka-onsen (also fantastic, especially the food), and left the kids with the grandma just long enough to explore a sake bar. There are local maps of this tourist friendly little town that will guide you up a small path to a walk in closet sized sake bar. The host was welcoming, friendly, super knowledgeable about sake, and was able to communicate in English pretty well if the topic was sake related. We described the type of sake we were interested in, and he put together a tasting menu of 3 sakes each for my partner and me. His selections were totally spot on - a wide range of characteristics, including fresh, unpasteurized, slightly effervescent ones my partner loved (she loves bubbles) as well as full bodied dry sake I very much enjoyed. He was very detail-oriented and made sure we had the best shaped sake cups for each tasting. Apparently some Hollywood people made a trek here and are having him travel to LA to host some sake parties. Also, incredibly affordable.
R-Shamp, in Kita Shinchi, Osaka,
R-Shamp is a counter style Champagne bar that seats around 6 guests, maybe 8, tops. The space is very tiny, clean, and comfy. This is in a kita-shinchi area, not too far from Osaka station/Umeda area, filled with numerous hostess clubs, bars, and expense account restaurants along with more affordable establishments. The area is densely filled with mid-rise buildings each containing dozens of bars. You will need your phone with google maps fully functioning to have a chance at finding this place. It’s worth the search though!
Once you step in you are greeted by Sona chan, the owner of the establishment, who is a serious Champagne-berserker. She studied champagne like a high level academic. She speaks English well and is incredibly welcoming and friendly. She generously popped any under 30K Yen bottle we were interested in and poured a 3.5 oz ‘taste’ for us. Sona also gleefully shared encyclopedic knowledge of each producers’ family history and characteristics of their wines, what she knew of the vineyards sourced from and any peculiarities of the vinification process. Some fun and friendly Somm friends of Sona stopped by and we had some terrific bubbles and lots of laughs. In the end, we got to try 4 different kinds of champagne, including 2017 Vincey. We don’t know where else we could have these by the glass.
Domain Vincey: Oger 2017
Our WOTN. This was a terrific wine. I did not take any notes. Though, I did pick up a few bottles from Flatiron. Looking forward to revisiting soon!
Larmandier-Bernier: 2015 Terre de vertus
Charles Heidsieck: Rose
Champagne Jacquesson 740
Sushidokoro Ikegami, in Senrioka, Settsu, Osaka, x
These days, making a reservation at any renowned sushi restaurant in Japan is very challenging, even for people who live there. We tried to snag a reservation at Jinsei (also super recommended but impossible to get in), also in Osaka but it wasn’t happening. We managed to get a rez at Ikegami, which is a little easier partially because this is way out in the Northern suburb of Osaka.
This is a legit sushi restaurant now run by the son of the sushi chef who founded the restaurant. It seats about 8 people and runs 2 rounds per evening, the menu is omakase only (you can add a la carte after completing the omakase menu). The omakase sushi is amazing, of course - various seasonal specialities sourced from all over Japan, as well as tuna sourced from the most well regarded supplier there. You are in good hand with Mr. Ikegami when it comes to sushi. Also notable is their well stocked champagne collection, which they offer at prices that are basically retail store prices (some may even be below retail). They even had a Salon on the list!
Really a nice trip. Looking forward to returning soon.
