I’ve seen Jancis Robinson at countless en primeur tastings, and there is no doubt she loves red burgundy. So, after the three hottest vintages in Burgundy history, this article screams “look elsewhere!” And when I say screams, I mean in that understated, British, between-the-lines way.
And before Berserkers go berserk over her alternative recommendations, please note they are, for the most part, those that are readily accessible in the UK.
Thanks for posting. To be fair this seems less like an indictment of red burgundy (particularly the “top domaines”, which she admittedly didn’t taste but says “certainly produced some truly memorable wines of both colours”) and more an indictment of what she tasted at a limited number of tastings. Without knowing what she tried, it is a little hard to evaluate, but I don’t think any burgundy lover will push back on the notion that lesser domaines have raised prices to match the top domaines, and are currently a pretty bad bargain.
I don’t know why we would go berserk. Many of the suggestions are good alternatives. Not the selection from Oregon I would have chosen, but both are good wineries, and, as you said, the availability of Oregon wines in London may be limited. On the flip side, I did notice that it was far easier to obtain NZ and Aussie wines there.