We’re visiting our daughter in London in early May where she’s studying abroad and are planning a trip through Belgium then finishing up with a couple of days in Champagne region to celebrate her 21st birthday. Even though she’s already legal drinking age in Europe we thought Champagne would be a fun way to celebrate her US legal drinking age birthday.
We’re thinking of staying in Epernay, seems cute and lots of champagne tastings and other things to do in town. We’ll have an afternoon and full day there before heading to Paris for a day before flying home.
We’re traveling on a modest budget, so many of the recommendations for restaurants and tastings I’ve found searching WB seem a bit rich. Both girls (other daughter, 24, is joining us) have quite a bit of wine tasting experience so we’re looking for something a little more than standard tourist activity. My wife and I have been getting into Champagne the past few years and enjoy some of the better known producers: Taittinger, B-S, Vilmart, Roederer, a bit of DP, but don’t feel we need to visit just these. We’d enjoy a small group tour or private driver tour where we can learn about Champagne and have a mix of big and small producers.
Should we spend our first afternoon in Reims? Restaurant recommendations? Which tasting rooms in Epernay are recommended? Tour guide recommendations? Reservations for tasting?
If you only have a day and a half, driving out of the city centres to visit producers doesn’t make sense. You can visit tastings rooms on the Avenue de Champagne (or just off the Avenue) in Epernay. Making appointments is recommended, but you can simply walk into some of them as well. Gosset would be a good option, I had a nice experience walking into Michel Gonet as well. Leclerc-Briant is appointment only, but you’ll need to head to their cellar at the top of (the very steep) Rue de la Chaude Ruelle, and not at their Le 25Bis hotel/restaurant/shop on the Avenue. Those are some “different” options that I find interesting. Don’t expect to be poured Dom Perignon at Moet & Chandon, BTW.
For meals, I really like Sacre Bistro. Burgers and Champagne? Yes, please! They focus on grower Champagne, and their burgers are great. They have plenty of other items on their menu and it’s a nice space. La Grillade Gourmande is another good option, and reservations are definitely required.
Not sure what your car situation is like, but you can take the train from Epernay to Reims. Depending on which trip you take, it’s only 25-35 minutes in duration. 15 Euro round trip and no concerns about enjoying a few glasses of wine when you get to Reims!
I highly suggest visiting the Cathedral in Reims. It’s a beautiful piece of architecture.
Plenty of lunch options in Reims - Au Bon Manger and The Glue Pot off the top of my head.
We’re driving from Belgium in the morning for our first day there so seems like a good idea would be to stop in Reims for lunch (Au Bon Manger), see the Cathedral, and maybe a tasting before heading on to Épernay.
Hautvillers seems like a nice spot to visit for views and history so maybe first thing in the morning on our full day or a stop there on our way to Paris the following day?
We were there in October, both Reims and Epernay. If you only have a day and a half, I’d recommend not traveling too far, maybe just a day in each town.
I’ll give a strong recommendation to visit Ruinart. While there are several big wineries with really impressive chalk caves, this tour really stood out. They have the most impressive caves; don’t miss it.
Here’s a link to my thread asking advice for Paris and Champagne.
If, instead of a larger producer such as Mumm, Ruinart, Veuve Cliquot, etc you are interested in more personalized visit to a smaller Champagne house near Reims, I highly recommend Aspasie in Brouillet:
Full Disclosure - they were friends of my late father who badgered K&L importers/wineshop in the SF Bay Area into carrying their line of Champagnes, which K&L still does and enthuses about regularly. We were there in 2015 accompanying my father on his swan song last trip back to France. At that time, they had 3 reasonably priced guest rooms which might be just right for your party if they are again hosting visitors. They are 25 km outside of Reims proper in a very beautiful setting:
