2011 Domaine Billaud-Simon Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre- France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru (7/7/2014)
Light yellow colour with green tints. A very fresh bouquet of greengage, lime, crushed river boulder, minerals, rock salt and lychees. A lovely Chablis nose, with a hint of white flowers. On palate, very pure and rich, with good fruit weight and structure, but real energy, tension and focus. Young and primary, a little clenched in the mid palate. Big boned but with a great mineral and acid backbone. Lime, greengage and peach dominated on the palate but food brought out the richness, the flavours moved more tropical fruit. A long, dry, chalky finish. MoT is my favourite Chablis 1er, and this wine is an excellent example. Give it 3-5 years. (92 pts.)
It reminded me of this wine I had a few months ago:
2010 Domaine Billaud-Simon Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir- France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru (12/17/2013)
Infanticide, of course, but I couldn’t resist trying one of these. Colour pale gold. An ethereal, pure, clean but fairly subdued bouquet. Aromas of freshly cut lemons and limes, white peach with metallic notes and sea spray. Silky entry to palate. Vibrant, racy acids, very intense and focused with excellent acid balance. Flavours of lime, wet granite and the marine. Very dry, with excellent mid palate weight, power, structure and length. However a little monolithic now, with the weight but not yet the richness and complexity of flavour of an older Grand Cru Chablis. I believe it has the dry extract and acid backbone to blossom into something very special in 5+ years. At present only 93. (93 pts.)
My hierarchy of Chablis producers has always been: Raveneau (clear, undisputed first), Dauvissat (pretty clear second), William Fevre (probably, a clear third) and others like Billaud-Simon in a group (with Moreau, Louis Michel, Faiveley etc) for fourth. Now, I think I need to revisit that.
For my taste, Louis Michel is in the third tier, maybe is alone there with Fevre in the fourth. I’d also put Picq in the third, given the quality of their Chablis AC. There are some other under the radar producers like Duplessis that I’d put there, too.
I haven’t had much B-S other than the 1996 MdT, which is definitely a worthy bottle; I’ve got one or two left.
I don’t have a lot of experience with old B-S but I have not seen, or heard of, many premox issues with them. Their record on oxidised Burgs is not the worst: http://oxidised-burgs.wikispaces.com/Billaud-Simon
I rate them very highly Howard, beautifully pure wines. I think Raveneau are at the top with Dauvissat and Fevre just behind. Billaud would be in a group with Tribut and a few others just behind.