INAO Approves Six New Grapes in Bordeaux

WINE TALK
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I find this interesting, but I don’t suppose that much will change.

The Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité (INAO) has formally approved the use of six new varieties in Bordeaux that were first proposed in 2019.

The French agricultural governing body has approved the use of four new red varieties – Arinarnoa, Castets, Marselan and Touriga Nacional – and two white varieties – Alvarinho and Liliorila – with plantings authorised for this year.

The varieties were put forward by winemakers in the Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur AOCs (not Pauillac, Margaux etc) in the summer of 2019 as a potential means of dealing with different growth cycles and ripening periods in the face of a changing climate.

Scientists in Bordeaux looked at 52 varieties for potential future use before settling on the final six which were considered particularly suitable for their ability to handle hydric stress and for being later-ripening.

When plantings begin, the new varieties will be limited to just 5% of an estate’s total surface area and no more than 10% of the blend in either red or white.

These new varieties will sit alongside the already permitted varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, Carménère, Petit Verdot for red – and Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris, Muscadelle, Colombard, Ugni Blanc, Merlot Blanc and Mauzac for white.

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I was under the impression that this was old news, but apparently it was only approved just now.

I was not aware of any Touriga Nacional Cru Bourgeois wines, but I’d be very curious to see those. Funny how the tables have turned…

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Three things. The news is that these grapes have moved from experimental to allowed to be used in the appellation. The new grapes are not allowed for single-varietal use. And they are also not allowed to be planted in the major appellations in the Medoc, so they are not at this point allowed for usage in Crus Bourgeois wines. That could change at some point in the future, but that is not the case today.

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This article goes into even more depth.

“Interestingly, Petit Manseng—a late-ripening white grape popular in South West France and often used in dessert wines—was part of the 2019 list, but did not make the final cut. A CIVB spokesperson told me that INAO decided that the grape was too “emblematic” of its Pyrenees-Atlantique origins and chose not to allow its production in Bordeaux in an effort to protect the specificity of the country’s wine regions (similar to how INAO wouldn’t allow Bordeaux to use Burgundy’s signature Pinot Noir or Chardonnay grapes).”

and

“…the new grapes are still officially listed in the national guidelines as 'new varieties of interest for adapting to climate change”—a tertiary group behind the "major’ and “additional” grape varieties. (Their status will be revisited again in 10 years, according to a CIVB spokesperson.) As such, use of the new grapes is limited: Vines can only account for up to 5 percent of the planted vineyard area and cannot account for more than 10 percent of a wine blend. Interestingly, as CIVB points out, this latter rule means that, due to France’s existing labeling regulations, these new varieties will not appear on Bordeaux labels. So their work to battle climate change will go relatively uncredited for now.

In announcing the change, CIVB added that climate change has already caused a shift in which grapes vineyards are favoring, specifically citing the example that the late-ripening Petit Verdot has seen its plantings jump 191 percent as of 2018."

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This still blows my mind. Touriga covering the planet one day.

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Touriga Nacional is particularly intriguing. More than a couple times I’ve had a dry red from the Douro and felt it had some things in common with red Bordeaux.

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Much as Cabernet Franc has an important blending role in Bordeaux but has its origin, and varietal expression, in the Loire (correct me if I’m wrong here), Touriga Nacional is one of the five or six most important elements of the Douro blend but has its origin and varietal expression in the Dão, where it makes very different wines.

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It may have originated in Bordeaux, at least according to this secondary source:

“Early records from the 17th century state that Cardinal Richelieu brought cuttings of Cabernet Franc from the Libournais region in Bordeaux to the Loire Valley.”

Wikipedia’s entry is confusing:

“Cabernet Franc is believed to have been established in the Libournais region of southwest France sometime in the 17th century, when Cardinal Richelieu transported cuttings of the vine to the Loire Valley.”

Perhaps the Wiki editor meant to say Richelieu brought cuttings to Libournais “…from the Loire Valley.” Which would make the city-vino secondary source incorrect.

So, if it originated in Libournais, I have no idea how or when it got there. If it originated in the Loire, the Wiki entry has an error.

In closing: I do not know. :slight_smile:

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The wine searcher grape variety database thing seems to uphold the Libournais origin. I stand corrected! newhere

Touriga Nacional is still a Dão grape, though. neener

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The first thing I thought when I read the article was: there’s a new Portuguese empire, and you can drink it!

(I’m still loving Alvarinho, but very hard to find in the USA.)

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I actually find the current international interest in Touriga to be ironic, given how some sympathizers of the Portuguese ‘AFWE’ scene lambast its exuberant profile, and prefer to champion more neglected domestic grapes. I heartily disagree for many reasons, one of which being the fact that Touriga was itself once neglected in its native region, because of low yields. Also, unfamiliarity with Portuguese grapes is a roadblock for international sales and having at least one globally recognized variety (out of, like, 250) couldn’t possibly hurt.

I have come across bottles from the most well known Alvarinho producers (Anselmo Mendes, Soalheiro) in several US stores, but admittedly mostly NY and CA.

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Thank you for the recommendations. Cheers!

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I’d add a +1 for Soalheiro. It may be a big producer but I’ve always liked the wines.

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I actually find the current international interest in Touriga to be ironic, given how some sympathizers of the Portuguese ‘AFWE’ scene lambast its exuberant profile, and prefer to champion more neglected domestic grapes. I heartily disagree for many reasons, one of which being the fact that Touriga was itself once neglected in its native region, because of low yields. Also, unfamiliarity with Portuguese grapes is a roadblock for international sales and having at least one globally recognized variety (out of, like, 250) couldn’t possibly hurt.

We need to push Baga. Easy name to remember and pronounce, a bonus to it’s greatness. champagne.gif

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[winner.gif] flirtysmile [dance-clap.gif] [thankyou.gif]

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100% Agree! First thought when I saw that list, “glad Touriga is included”. But my second thought, close behind, “Where’s Baga?!” I’ve had some varietally pure Baga dry red wines from the Dao that were fantastic, though perhaps a bit “hot”. I’d be very curious to try a Baga grown in the slightly cooler, but still excellent climat, of Bordeaux. Third thought, “f_ck, we’re really f_cking up our planet…”

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There’s a theory that Baga may have originated in the Dão, but either way its home is in Bairrada, which is a similar climate to Bordeaux - and it regularly produces wines which are lower in ABV than many classified growth Bordeaux, from what I understand. Whether or not such a rot sensitive grape would do well in southwestern France I’m not sure. In the old days of less advanced viticultural practice it was regularly picked early, in order to avoid the late summer rains, and a lot of its reputation for toughness derives from that. We know better today!



You guys should have tasted this 2015 Messias Clássico Garrafeira I got in a blind tasting. Sexy yet classic, with this flawless balance of fruit, acidity and herbalness which was unmistakably Baga, but wearing a tux somehow. 12,5% ABV. Smashing stuff, I thought - a serious 25-30 year ager, top level cuvee which nevertheless drinks splendidly already. Then I saw the price - 19,90€ - and couldn’t lift my jaw off the floor for like a week. The critic I tasted it started swearing when I told him. I would advise y’all to back up the truck like maniacs, but only 5400 bottles were made and I’m not sure how many were exported, if any.

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You guys should have tasted this 2015 Messias Clássico Garrafeira I got in a blind tasting. Sexy yet classic, with this flawless balance of fruit, acidity and herbalness which was unmistakably Baga, but wearing a tux somehow. 12,5% ABV. Smashing stuff, I thought - a serious 25-30 year ager, top level cuvee which nevertheless drinks splendidly already. Then I saw the price - 19,90€ - and couldn’t lift my jaw off the floor for like a week. The critic I tasted it started swearing when I told him. I would advise y’all to back up the truck like maniacs, but only 5400 bottles were made and I’m not sure how many were exported, if any.

Messias is so very underrated for both Ports and table wines.