This is a very interesting article that not only addresses Roederer`s change in farming procedures, but provides more specifics about their other releases:
Love this nugget at the end. Echoes some things about 1996 that have been said here from time to time about certain wines.
The 1996 vintage in Champagne should have been a dream vintage, a classic, but many producers — Roederer among them — made wines that were not as good as they could have been. It was this experience, Mr. Lécaillon said, that prompted the 30-year study and the subsequent evolution.
Thanks for pointing that part out David as it hit me as well with similar thoughts.
Excellent article thanks for sharing.
I found it interesting that depending on the vintage/temperature they alter their farming practices between organic and bio. It seems like many other big champagne houses have plenty of catching up to do.
I’m not sure what climate change has to do with the changes made. It sounds like they just came to the same realization that winemakers all over the world have come to over the last few decades that quality begins in the vineyard. What is different is 16% of the vins clairs went through malo for the 2008 Cristal.
Yep, I am all in on Monie instead of the Chef de Cave of Roederer.
It’s a fascinating topic.
In the 1920’s (1927 to be exact), the USDA started offering ‘climate zone maps’ to assist farmers with what crops will perform well at different latitudes, altitudes, etc. They called the different environmental areas “Plant hardiness Zones.”
These zones have moved steadily northward for nearly a century and were not controversial, accommodated a warming climate, and were not a political football until some group of idiots decided that the earth must somehow be a planet in devine stasis, incapable or changing because, dammit, scientists are liberal dupes.
A sketch of the history is here: Hardiness zone - Wikipedia
Another history here: Sitemap - Weekend Gardener
The map has become more and more specific and accurate over time, and we have seen the zones move ever northward. So, it’s a mesh of better data and changing environment. (same goes for tropical disease, working their way north.)
2002 was the real turning point for when the kooks took over.
I agree, improved vineyard dynamics is important, but so is facing reality.
Agenda driven oenology?
Good article, thanks for posting.