Haven’t posted for a while on HKWS events, I’ve missed a number whilst being on holidays and I don’t write them all up. This event was superb and I thank Nigel for sharing with us some of the last of his Piedmont gems. It is only a matter of time before greedy collectors start to hoard these wines. For the time being, they are affordable and timeless. Tonight I noted a few whispers around the tables of member’s “secret” European sources of these old wines. For me, you only need to drink them once, praying for a good bottle and if you get it, you fall back in time, where a wine is an artisan’s expression from a winemaker sometimes long passed and the wine takes you to the soul of the region.
Corks pulled 230pm. Older wines 5pm. Older wines decanted prior to pouring.
Capellano Barolo 1955- Old and tertiary yet there are beautiful traces of fruit aided by VA. Decaying red roses and a last gasp buzz of red fruits and a leaf. Ethereal in the mouth giving a lovely mystery to the wine. Iron infused acidity and a persistence of smoke and savories.
I’ve just begun tucking a few bottles of wine away from this wonderful old winery.
92pts
2 Firsts, 1 Second, No lasts.
9th for me and 7th for the Group.
Borgogno Barolo Riserva 1955- A mix of an old Chinese tea chest and an old Chesterfield Lounge. Yeast and dry porcini too. The palate is past its best ( I’ve had fresher bottles of this ) but it is still pleasant drinking. I had a mouthful with food and as with all great nebbiolo, it springs to life. Alas, in tonight’s company, it was respectable in the lower end.
88pts
No Firsts or Seconds, and two Lasts.
10th for Me and the Group
Cappellano Barolo 1958- This wine still had a youthful focus on the nose. Quite remarkable really. A black & red fruited mix, with a lift of cherry-menthol. It is amazing how this wine fills out its edges on the palate with a fruit creaminess, then there’s an alluring varietal austerity in the middle, prior a mix of tertiary fruit complexity dancing off toward the long finish. Amazing wine!
95pts
4 Firsts, 3 Seconds, 1 Last
4th for Me and Second for the Group.
Aldo Conterno Barolo 1967- I have a number of these wines back to 61. Aldo didn’t start his new Cantina until 1969 so I think it’s assumed that Aldo and his brother split some of the family winery stock.
This wine got better as the night progressed blowing off a strong caramalized aroma toward more savories and hung meats. Has a pleasant palate richness giving a mouthfilling gratification prior an austerity lead finish of resolved tannin and high acidity.
92pts
2 Firsts, 0 Seconds, 1 Last
8th for Me and 6th for the Group.
Scarpa Barolo 1967- Corked. My second corked 67 in a month! And a fake??? Please look at the photo below and explain the color difference between it and other 60’s wines. The light detracts from the contrast- but gee it was dark ruby-red! Not bad for 40 years.
Sobrero Barolo 1971- A winery I haven’t had much experience with but I will have a good look at when visiting in May. In Castiglione Falletto and its history dates back to 1940.
Wow! A simultaneous cascade of red and black fruits, both sweet and dried, hopefully gives an idea of the wine’s complexity. There’s a herbal lift and just when the fruit appears to fade and breeze of fresh pine reinvigorates the aromas. Complete, bottomless and not a trace of austerity. Balanced and poised leaving a striking impression. Near perfect fruit- who needs modernism? Wow!
98pts
5 Firsts, 2 Seconds, 2 Lasts ( for palate calibration someone rated the corked Scarpa as WOTN )
WOTN for Me and 3rd for the Group.
Borgogno Barolo Riserva 1964- I think this replaced the Scavino in the original line up. We had this wine in the tasting and another over dinner of which I indulged in a couple of glasses. Dinner bottle was fresher and I’ll rate that in the following.
Deep scented and vigorous, dark violet fruit aromas have you questioning the wine’s age. Mushroom and wet leather emerge in the tertiary spectrum. Medium weight and with a delicacy; some dustiness and the flavors mimic the aromatics. Fresh on the finish with just a hint of tertiary nuttiness in the flavor persistence. Instead of fading, on return the wine fills out on the palate near perfectly.
96pts
0 First, 0 Seconds, 1 Last.
6th for Me and 5th for the Group ( I re-rated my points based on the dinner bottles )
Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 1989- This worked a treat in the line up and I’m unsure if it was a deliberate ploy my Nigel. Based on the previous wines, you are firmly back in the traditionalist camp and then along comes this beauty. The oak and fruit are integrated and both show off their attributes in alluring fashion. The fruit is red lollied and the palate flavors are a kaleidoscope courtesy of the fruit/oak mesh. Divine modernism with enough fruit freshness to balance the potentially dry cedar wood notes on the finish.
95pts+
0 Firsts, 0 Seconds and a Last
5th for Me and 9th for the Group.
Giuseppe Mascarello Monprivato 1989- I buy a case of this wine every year now. It is a classic. Mauro told me on a recent visit his 2006 vintage is memorable and it is a shame that my daughter’s birth year was 07 ( no CA d’Morrissio that vintage ) and not 06. His wines can make a grown man weep.
Raw tar & marmite gives a burnt blackberry like dimension to the fruit which mixes beautifully with the mineralized raspberry like red fruits. Regal wine on the palate, it is princely and shows well now but gives a commanding presence to a long reign of maturity. Gently, dusty tannins roll on a long, long finish. I came back for another glass and cherished the flavors which resemble the nose.
Bewildering wine- I phoned my wife and convinced her of our need for a holiday house in Piedmont and its magic must have reached down the phone line as she agreed.
97pts+
3 Firsts, 3 Seconds, 0 Lasts.
2nd for Me and WOTN for the Group.
Cavallotto Riserva Vigna San Giuseppe Barolo 1989- This wine still needs 5 years. There’s some autumnal and treacle like development prying away from dominating juicy red and black fruits. A further five years should help. There’s a grippy back palate tannin rise that needs to soften- further fruit development and secondary/tertiary integration should be magical.
94pts+
1 First, 2 Seconds, 0 lasts
7th for Me and 8th for the Group.
Ceretto Barolo Brunate 1989- Polished, almost varnished red and black fruits, tar and soft rose notes. Sour cherry notes emerge. Very long and crafted wine, a toch austere but comes to life with food.
95pts
1 First, 2 Seconds, 0 Lasts.
3rd for me and 4th for the Group
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