Some years ago, Hermitage was acknowledged as one of the most noble wines of France (known only by the cognescenti), but Crozes-Hermitage was presented as an estsatz version “down there on the plain.”
I’m more than willing to believe that this analysis is outdated and erroneous, but I’d be pleased to learn from someone knowledgeable.
For instance, what percentage of Crozes is on slope vineyards? Is the terroir similar to Hermitage?
What about the whites?
In short, what is the relationship of Hermitage to Crozes Hermitage?
I had a 2009 Domaine du Murinais, “Caprice de Valentin” (a Crozes) for lunch and quite enjoyed it, even if this was not one for the long haul. It was 14% alc./vol., had a good Syrah nose (violets, and even some chocolate) and was broad shouldered and upfront.
I’ve been to Côte Rôtie a few times. I think I should go investigate Hermitage (and possibly Crozes) one of these days…
Alex - i think it’s outdated. I haven’t had many dozens to make a really informed statement, but I have both from say, 1990 and on, and the wines from Crozes are doing quite well. In Napa for example, you have Oakville, and then you have Howell Mountain which starts at an elevation roughly where Oakville ends. But both places can produce structured and tannic wines.
My hunch, and it’s only that, is that given the increased understanding of viticulture and wine making today, many such classifications are outdated. That doesn’t mean all of them are and surely there are some privileged places on earth, but I think a lot of older assumptions can be re-examined.
Without much effort at providing you empirical evidence, I’d say it is NOT outdated or erroneous.
Love older Hermitage and the metamorphosis it generally goes through from ages 15 to 30.
I’ve had some older well stored versions of Crozes (ie: Thalabert) that while delicious and certainly an incredible value in aged syrah, did not hold a candle to older La Chapelle’s, Chapoots & Chave.
The relationship is somewhat akin to village vs. 1er cru (or perhaps GC burgundy).
If using geography maybe Gevrey Chambertin to Marsannay or Volnay to Monthelie.
Like AlexR, I had an 2009 over the last two nights - the 2009 Delas ‘Dom. des Grand Chemins’ [Crozes Hermitage] which was a bit disappointing as this bottling tends to be. I have had this rouge in 1999, 2003, 2006 and this vintage (twice) and for my tastes it doesn’t have enough interest to continue buying. When my local shop put the 2015 on the shelf for $38 (!) it was an easy pass, as I might have been willing to buy it in big/solar vintages if it was at the sawbuck level. This is 13% abv, with a dark garnet color, and light sediment. I find the bouquet to be full of pepper and bay leaves, with a savory palate, and acidity on the higher side, especially by itself. An enthusiast would not confuse with a good Hermitage, although it’s still an enjoyable enough syrah. In my ledger, it get’s a B but has become poor value. I tried it in four different stems, enjoying it the most in Stolzle Zinfandel ones (not pictured).
I think that’s typical pricing for any “lesser” Northern Rhone. Faury’s regular St. Joe is at that price and the VV more. Even the VDP is priced in the 30-35 range. N. Rhone has become trendy and therefore is priced on the upper ends, at least in the states. Perhaps European’s prices are lower but I’d be surprised.
Where does this bottling fall in their Crozes lineup. I’ve only had Les Launes which is serviceable but not exciting.
I am EU based and can find Faury’s VV EU based bottling (different names) for 24€.
The prices are certainly on the up here as well. But it still seem a lot cheaper than in the US. Just bought a few bottles of Franck Balthazar’s Chaillot the other day at 66€ per bottle. Would be surprised if you could get close to that in the US.
Paid 18€ for Balthazar’s 2020 Crozes-Hermitage as well. Good wine that just needs a little time.
The Hermitage Appellation covers 330 acres. That is a lot of territory! Over that acreage there are great differences in aspect, slope, soil, sub-soil, altitude, exposure. It is subdivided into fifteen different vineyard parcels. The fact that parts of it are in three different towns is another indication of how diverse it is. Yields average barely 2 tons per acre for annual production of about 50,000 cases (about 1/4 of it white).
Crozes-Hermitage has almost 10 times the acreage! A soil map of Crozes shows 19 different soil types. Some of the parcels of Crozes are higher than Hermitage, separated by a foot-path. There are certainly a few terroirs of Crozes that have at least quality potential equal to the lesser terroirs of Hermitage. Yields are higher than Hermitage, closer to 3 tons per acre, so annual production in a generous year could be close to 1 million cases.
There are many board members far better qualified than I am to answer your question(s). I would say that with a deep dive into the terroirs and producers of Crozes you can find wines of close to Hermitage quality for a lot less money.
Yes, the St Joseph was kind of a catch-all running for about 40 miles along the west side of the Rhone from Condrieu south to Cornas. There were always a few good producers, but the range of quality St Jo has expanded greatly over the last couple of decades. There are a lot of good hillside vineyards there – some of them old – that have been restored. By contrast, much of Crozes is on a relatively low plain, as you can see from the very rough topographical indications on this map.
Here’s a detailed soil map of Crozes, showing the enormous variation. The sort of rust-colored areas in the lower right are the large, flat plane where the quality is lower.
Great map. Does anyone know where Dom. de Colombier’s C-H vineyards are? (they’re the producer with a little bird on their bottle) I have always liked their (oaky!) examples of this AOC
I can’t find a good topographical map of Crozes, but here’s my mark-up of a Google topo map with the approximate boundaries. It shows how the AOC boundaries encompass both some significant slopes and the flood plain in the south east, where the bulk of the acreage is.
There are a number of very good producers of Crozes - the inexpensive Chapoutier Meysonniers is a killer value in most vintages. Variability is understandably much higher than it is with Hermitage, but once you find a good one you can get a lot of satisfaction for not a lot of money.
My company represented the Cave de Tain. When I sold it, the new owners dropped the agency, which made commercial sense.
Ramon, I know that about 50% of Crozes is produced by the Cave de Tain, but I do not think that Jaboulet has anywhere close to the remaining 50%, my best guess (it’s just a guess) would be well under 20%.
My thanks to John Morris for putting up the map I mentioned showing 19 different soil types in Crozes.
The Cave de Tain makes a parcel selection of red Crozes, ‘Les Hauts de Fief’. The 2015 is better than more than half of the Hermitage I’ve drunk. I’m down to 2 bottles and will cry when I open the last few. That won’t be for a few years. I’ve walked these vineyards many times. I can’t claim to know every parcel they use for this, but one of them I have walked is separated from the ‘Le Hermite’ parcel of Hermitage by no more than 10 feet. It is higher, with the same soil and exposure.
We visited the Cave de Tain tasting room in October. We tasted and shipped the 2017 Les Hauts du Fief. It blew us away. Prior to shipping it was approx €25/bottle. We also shipped home the 2015 Cave de Tain Hermitage Les Nobles Rives (approx €45/bottle). It blew us away. The used Mail Boxes Etc from Valence to ship. Even with the shipping cost, it was a value. A Rocks Syrah from SJR is double the price, let alone Cayuse. Maybe you can order directly from them?
