That’s an important point Stuart. I have heard some people discuss cold soaking as if it is intended to make big dark wines. In fact, extraction without the presence of alcohol (early in the fermentation) is much gentler and does not extract bitter elements. If someone is concerned about the level of extraction in a winemaking regime, I would advise focusing on duration of fermentation more than cold soak. Also other extractive practices like punchdowns, pumpovers, temperature or the use of enzymes (supposedly Jayer used them for clarity not extraction) can all have more impact on how “extracted” a wine seems.
one of his greatest contributions was the resurrection of the premier cru vineyard Cros Parantoux, which was so fragmented with multiple ownership that no grapes were grown. It was used as a vegetable garden, mostly Jerusalem artichokes. Those Jerusalem artichokes were the food sustenance that allowed Mssr. Jayer to survive WWII and he never ate one after the war, being so sick of them. He bought up the various parcels, dynamited out the large rocks and boulders in the vineyard and planted it. Other than Meo-Camuzet, Jayer was the only owner of Cros Parantoux, a one hectare parcel in toto. It’s a great story.
I was fortunate enough to meet him at a Jayer tasting hosted by Martine at Citrus in LA long ago. A diminutive man standing next to the equally height-challenged Martine Saunier, his short height belies his great stature in the Burgundy world. He reminded me of a simple farmer and, as John Gilman noted, one of his primary concerns was the quality of the fruit in the vineyard.
At that tasting, only Jayer wines were served and I uttered a statement which a friend still teases me about to this day, more than a decade later, a statement which has probably never been said by anyone else in the history of wine: when the wine steward offered me additonal Jayer wine, I said, “thank you, but no. I’ve had enough Jayer tonight.” Who else can say he drank Jayer wine until he could drink no more? I’m a lucky guy.
He died of prostate cancer several years ago, sadly a disease that few should die of, as early diagnosis and successful treatment are possible.
Thank you, Alan. And yes, you are indeed very lucky! I hope that there will be a day when I get to taste a Jayer Cros Parantoux but for now I am happy to know of the man.
Funny, just last weekend I purchased Jerusalem artichokes from the Union Square Market. I’m always amused when silly coincidences like his pop up.
As for prostate cancer - agreed. My dad died from the disease @ 57 years old.
one of his greatest contributions was the resurrection of the premier cru vineyard Cros Parantoux, which was so fragmented with multiple ownership that no grapes were grown.
Sorry,…Alan : are you sure about mutiple ownership of Cros Paratoux ?
The size is 1.01 ha and according to Coates, he knows only of 2 owners : Meo Camuzet and H. Jayer ( page 127 of his 1st Edition of CdOr).
The other relevant things about Jayers’ wines I have noted was the quality of his wines in off vintages, as say something like '87, where he actually made pretty good wines.
Secondly, his Premier Cru’s are generally very strong wines (Cros aside in this discussion)…I have had some Beaux Monts and Brulees that are easily a GC equivalent level for the vintage IMHO…
Very interesting thread. I have nothing to add, having only tasted one Henri Jayer wine that I can recall, a 1985 NSG Meurgers back in 1987-88. Double blind at MacArthur’s in DC. It seemed rather big and fruity, almost California-like. I don’t recall guessing NSG, and I’m certain I did not guess Jayer. I don’t think the wine was particularly expensive, but I did not buy any.
Jayer wasn’t big on RP’s radar. The WA covered his wines in the mid 80s with a moderate reception. For example the '85 Jayer Cros P (I agree with Paul Hanna Jayer’s 85s are totally amazing) merited 92 pts. I couldn’t find any reviews after '87 and don’t know if there is a story behind that.
Kim, if you have an iPhone there is an app with those maps. It’s a bit expensive and I felt they could have done a better job with parts of it, but it’s very handy.