Henri Giraud Champagne?

The hyperbole is strong in this one. “Here (the) master of the cellar and of time, gives amazing energy to a fine white wine and opens up a whole new dimension: a suspended space-time in which complexity, fruit and spirituality come together. He channels this fantastic energy, born of the fusion of Champagne’s hundred-million-year-old twin marine terroirs - Aÿ’s chalk and Argonne’s gaize - into a long, saline river, perfumed with subtle aromas. Emotion, carried to its height, borders on the mystic.”
Regardless of embellishment, this is a producer I haven’t tried but would like to. Old and deep reserves, 13 generations of family ownership, BdN from GC Aÿ PN aged in Argonne oak barrels are intriguing. I don’t think I’ve seen any TN’s from this producer. Who’s tried it?

Cheers,
Warren

If it can help …

_Mars 2005 :
Champagne – Henri Giraud – Aÿ Fût de Chêne 1995 :
PP15,5 – LG15

  • Blanc de noirs pour cette cuvée de luxe (et chère).
  • Nez grillé impliquant des exhalaisons de brioche, de fleurs, d’orange.
  • Bouche semblant un peu trop dosée (un peu lestée, manquant de tranchant minéral, d’éclat), opulente, puissante, corsée. Soupçon oxydatif qui confère de la complexité.
  • Il a peut-être un peu souffert de l’ordre de passage (de notre impatience ?), derrière un vin chargé (mais sans violence).

    Avril 2008
    Champagne Giraud Ay Grand Cru fût de chêne 1996 (BdN) : 16,5/20 – 20/4/08
    Fermentaire (cidre, pomme), musc, semblant peu protégé. Aromatiquement peu sophistiqué, virilité et plus embêtant un léger déficit en longueur Un champagne corpulent, primaire, peu folâtre, de repas, qui joue dans le registre de la force plus que dans celui de l’élégance._

Thus far I’ve had one rosé and one white, both NV.

Medium deep peach orange color. Really characterful, expressive, even heady nose with sweet aromas of peach candy, toffee, baked apple, some sweet rosewater and hints of salty licorice. The dry yet ripe and somewhat concentrated, moderately full-bodied palate repeats the notes of the bouquet with flavors of salty licorice, peach, nectarine, steely minerality, some ripe boysenberry nuances and hints of delicate florals. The mousse is crisp and prickly, yet rather short-lived. The wine finishes with a brooding, dark-toned aftertaste that brings out rich nuances of peach candies, dark cherries, licorice, salty licorice, some peppery spice and a slightest hint of tannic grip. The aftertaste is complex and very long.

A wonderful, delightful and outside-the-box rosé Champ with really interesting, even surprising nuances. Though the wine seems not-so-serious with its abundance of candy-like aromas and flavors, it still comes across very serious, structured and impressive. Very unique expression, and I commend the wine for it. Very nice! (93 pts.)

  • NV Henri Giraud Champagne Grand Cru Hommage A François Hemart Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (23.6.2018)
    A blend of Pinot Noir (70%) and Chardonnay (30%). Fermented and aged for 6 months in stainless steel, then aged for a short time in oak barrels before bottling. No designation of base vintage or disgorging date. 12% alcohol.

Pale yellow color. Nuanced, subtly sweet and quite attractive nose with aromas of ripe golden apples, some creamy tones, a little bit of caramel, light smoky notes and an autolytic, toasty hint of brioche. The wine is moderately full-bodied, quite dry and balanced on the palate with flavors of creamy richness, ripe and mealy golden apples, some brioche, a little bit of toasty oak spice, a hint of chalky minerality and a touch of peachy yellow fruit. Balanced acidity, nicely creamy, smooth and rather persistent mousse. The finish is long, mineral and bright with dry flavors of stony minerality, ripe mealy apples, some chalky mineral tones, a little bit of woody spice, a hint of tart nectarine and a creamy touch of leesy richness.

A fine and balanced Champagne, but perhaps a bit undistinguished. I expected something with more emphasis on toast, autolysis and wood, but this was surprisingly classic and - well - rather ordinary Champagne. A fine and pleasurable effort all the same. A solid all-rounder that is priced according to its quality at 39,95€. (90 pts.)

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  • NV Henri Giraud Champagne Esprit Nature - France, Champagne (7.2.2021)
    From a half bottle, no dg information stated. Way more developed on the nose than my past experiences but very nice all the same. Ripe apple, sea breeze, buttered toast and smoke with a rather distinct Sherry-esque oxidative edge. On the palate quite broad with a spry, persistent mousse. Rich with a fairly traditional dosage, i.e. this is by no means brutally dry. I find it well balanced. Flavors are very similar to the nose besides the oxidation which is a bit less prominent. There is good acidity and some bitter tones that bring nuance to the whole. Altogether pleasant and enjoyable, at this price point it is pretty impeccable in its rich, developed yet still vibrant style.
  • NV Henri Giraud Champagne Brut Esprit Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne (30.4.2016)
    The rich, generous nose is irresistible. Green apple, honey, toast, smoke, vanilla, cardamom and yeast. On the palate definitely richer and rounder than your average BdB yet full of salty minerality and marked by high acidity. Increasing the delicious-factor there are spicy and toasty notes and lots of flesh. This is definitely a rebuy for me.
  • NV Henri Giraud Champagne Code Noir - France, Champagne (26.9.2012)
    This is really something else. A really special, extremely bold and exotic nose of cherry, IPA-like orange peel and cola, all wrapped in oak. Very ripe fruit, marmaladeish even. I didn’t like the nose at first, but it definitely grew on me. Wild stuff. On the palate this is one powerful and intense wine. Big, dense and sharp mousse is almost secondary to the wine’s extremely vinous character. On the flavor profile there is that somewhat unsual cherry and orange action. Rich concentration with a persistent finish. Despite being quite a bruiser there’s actually a pretty good balance and this is not a heavy wine. A really funky style, but seems well made. This really is not for everyone but I liked it, although my preferences for Champagne are still totally elsewhere.
  • NV Henri Giraud Champagne Grand Cru Hommage A François Hemart Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (30.4.2012)
    Disgorged 5.4.2011.

Beautiful dark golden color and naturally plenty of very small bubbles. Instantly inviting, delicious nose of baked apple, brioche and stylish, almost cognac-like oak. Thick and gentle mouthfilling mousse. Obvious Pinot-dominated, matured flavor profile of ripe apples with a whiff of citrus and some of that cognac-like oak again. A really rich, smooth - creamy even - and fairly vinous sparkler that indeed reminds of Grande Année but with less structure and intensity. Very approachable, delicious and long, even hedonistic Champagne that offers good value at 34,5 €. Eventhough this was disgorged fairly recently I think this is totally ready to go. Great stuff!

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Here are some of my notes:

2000 Henri Giraud Champagne Grand Cru Aÿ Fût De Chêne Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (12/12/2018)
Nice richness coupled with good minerality and tartness and a dollop of nuttiness. (92 pts.)

2002 Henri Giraud Champagne Grand Cru Argonne Brut - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (8/4/2018)
Hazelnut, rich with just a hint of banana, lots of acidity. Very nice. (93 pts.)

NV Henri Giraud Champagne Code Noir - France, Champagne (6/27/2015)
Allemand, Jamet, Burgs, Barolo, Yquem, and more: Yeasty, lemony, fairly full bodied, seems a bit high on dosage, which I don’t mind. (91 pts.)

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