Henri Bonneau has passed

WINE TALK
21

Very sad, RIP.

Recently I attended a blind grenache tasting. In one flight there was a wine that seemed so different from the rest that I put it aside to be drunk on its own. I’m glad I did as it really blossomed after 30 mins and was the best wine by a long stretch. It was a Celestin from the 90s, glorious wine.

22

This is devastating news. I probably learned more about wine tasting in Henri’s cellar than anywhere else. A lot of his personality is captured in his uniquely personal wines. And a lot of Châteauneuf du Pape’s heritage too.

Henri used to say that diabetes had kept him alive by enforcing moderation on his eating and drinking. So sad it has finally taken him.

23

Here you go:

24

I also seem to recall M. Bonneau being known for not following conventional wisdom with respect to cellar conditions (photo courtesy of Manfred Krankl):

25

Thank you Mark. That IS the picture. You rescued me. Thanks a lot.

26

Miserable news.

One of the greats. Will open a bottle of the 2004.

27

Mark I’d love a note on that 2004, as I’ve only got a few bottles.

28

image.jpeg
Can’t afford much of his wine but this one will
Do the trick tonight (planned on last night but would
Have sucked with the fish)

29

It is actually one of my favorite Celestins. We did a mini vertical with the 2005 and 2007, and this was just about the winner.

It is not a particularly ripe year, so fruit is fresh, and the wine has a smoky, rosemary, spice character. Full bodied, great acidity, and mouth feel. No sense of fatness, and yet nothing is missing. Finish is like every other Celestins I have had, incredibly long. Wine can be enjoyed now, or you can hang onto it for a few years 96

30

Great, thank you very much! I appreciate it.

31

I found an 06 Celestin at a good price and hope to age it appropriately.

32

street kreds from manfred neener ! with all the memorable bottles (albeit burgundy) :wink: we had that week/end - the celestins came out near/on the top.

great quote [cheers.gif]

33

YES is was…albeit at 2am! RIP [cheers.gif]

34

To Manfred:
we have planned a meeting (with a wine-friend from this forum) early summer here in Austria at another friends house - who has a fine SQN-collection and will no doubt pull a bottle from … and in memoriam of Henri Bonneau I might bring one of his wines as a counterpoint. [cheers.gif]

35

In his obituary in the Times, it says that one of his favorite topics of discussion was “the shortcomings of bureaucrats”. [rofl.gif]

I had his 1990 Cuvée Marie Beurrier a couple of times. It’s hard to believe that the Celestines could be even better, but I hope to have the opportunity to see for myself someday.

36

Yes - it´s better still.
From my Bonneau-tasting 10 years ago (28 wines) from 1971 to 2002 …

90Marie Beurrier: This was the darkest of the four in the flight (almost like a 90 Bordeaux) but with a more fruity nose, dark chocolate, sweet and lush in the mouth, very rich in concentration but civilized in structure, on the way to maturity, still a bit primary, very concentrated, 95p

The 1989 + 1990 Celestins had a very similar appearance, except the former was slightly lighter in colour, but showed slightly more alcohol. Both still faily tannic, powerful and very concentrated, in need of another 5-7 years for perfect maturity, it is a matter of taste which you prefer. At the moment 89C seemed to be slightly sweeter on the palate, but 90C had an extra amount of depth and complexity. Splitting hairs: 97p / 98+p resp.

1990 Cuvée speciale was the darkest in colour, showed some overripeness and hints of residual sugar and a somewhat port-like character, but far less than exspected, extremely long on the palate, but with less elegance, and still in need of cellaring, this is a giant in resp of concentration. 95+p

37

I remember tasting the 1989 and 1990 Celestins together, and the group was exactly split down the middle. While we all liked both wines, I preferred the brightness of the 1989.

I have had the 1990 Cuvee Speciale on a couple of occasions, and never particularly liked it. I feel it is not so much Port like, but more a Recioto, with a distinct raisiny profile. Interesting, but not a wine I would buy for pleasure.

38

A group I’m in did 88-90 Celestins in February of 2015. The 1990 is one of the most incredible wines I’ve tasted. That being said the 1989 was only a hair less impressive, and I believe it might actually still evolve positively. The 1988 was drinking tremendously as well. Great wines.

39

Hank:

The last time I tasted with him, Henri opined that the 1989 Celestins was the greatest wine he ever made. I see no reason to argue with that. I expect that the 89-90 comparison with Celestins will ultimately play out the way the 89-90 Rayas comparison has already played out, and that Henri will be vindicated.

Happily, 1989 is my birth year!

Best,
William

40

I´m sure late Jacques and (now) late Henri will continue discussion about their 1989 and 1990 resp. in heaven for a while - I hope they have still some stock left [cheers.gif]