As I sit here on the oceanside in Santa Barbara, in low-40s freezin temps, just wanted to send a very warm thanks for the suggestions. Limited in time, we ended up visiting L’Aventure, on the many recommendations, and of course, Tablas Creek.
L’Aventure was a fun surprise. I had never heard of this winery, and would not have stumbled across it, it being well off the beaten path, nestled in a beautiful valley of steep rolling hills. A modern barn winery and extremely friendly, knowledgeable staff, greeted us. I was eager to try these wines based on the recs, and the very high praise from Jeb of Rhone Report. And the tasting is across the board, including all major cuvees, even the flagship 2010 Estate Cuvee. Healthy pours (and some repours) as well!
Stephen Asseo is the owner/wine-maker. He owned the well-known, though very modern St. Emilion estate, Ch. Fleur Cardinale, and the lesser known but quite good QPR from Cotes de Castillon, Ch. Robin. Learning this, I expected full on modern. Modern, however, that still respected its terroir. I have bought both of these Bordeaux in many vintages, including 2 cases of the wonderful 2005 Fleur Cardinale.
For me, the wines were easily separated in quality by the use of new oak. And there is a lot of that. The flagship 2010 Estate Cuvee (42% syrah, 42% Cab and 15% petite verdot) and the 2010 Cabernet are both 100% new French oak and the Optimus (55% syrah, 27% Cab and 18% petite verdot) was 80% new French oak. The oak is very pronounced both on the nose and palate. Very large-scaled wines, deep, layered, opulent. Lots of great material there. I just could not get passed the oak. Whether it integrates is beyond my country palate to figure out, but at $85 per, I’m not buying. I did not buy.
I did, however, thoroughly enjoy, and bought, three of the true Rhone blends that were matured in 50% new French oak instead. The 2010 La Suite is a blend of 43% grenache, 40% mourvedre and 17% syrah. The 2010 Cote a Cote is 42% grenache, 34% syrah and 24% mourvedre. Now these are not your grandmother’s old grenache. The dark pour alone tells you that. These are also large-scaled blends, but instead of distracting oak presence, you have a strong, underlying core of acidity that keeps these heavyweights dancing on their feet. Both displayed very brite, crisp red fruits, interspersed with the richer darks.
Starting to figure out my taste preferences, the very nice staff opened a bottle not on the tasting menu, the 2010 Sibling, which is 70% syrah, 15% grenache and 15% mourvedre, with 50% new oak. Now we are talking. This was the best wine in the line-up for my palate. Big meaty syrah with nice salinity. Black olives, garrigue and earthiness. Slight creaminess. Simply beautiful.
These three Rhone blends are approachable now. These are modern wines, a bit flashy, but really damn nice. They balance well the otherwise very high alcohol content. Had I seen the numbers before I visited, I might have passed. I detected no heat, however. These wines are big but balanced. Expensive at $75-$85, but unique enough to interest me.
Notes on Tablas to follow, as I sit in my hotel warming up to the 2010 Tannat, which I decanted 3 hours ago . . . .