Haters get your hats out: 2006 Kaesler "Old Bastard" Shiraz (Barossa Valley)

This is out of my realm of experience…I’m generally NOT interested in Aussie stuff, Cali cabs, etc. Just to help someone understand my perspective when I post below, I mostly drink Italian wine, and my favorite whites are Rieslings and the few not-overdone “Orange” wines (Vodopivec, Gravner, Movia), with a few red Rhones (North & South) thrown in for good measure…And I enjoy the occasional Amarone and/or Port. I generally find the combination of sweetness, richness and eucalyptus/mint on Aussie Shiraz to be undrinkable…But the closeout price on this ($45-ish) was too good to pass up so I picked up two bottles in the name of “cellar diversity”…and now I wish I’d gone long.

First and foremost, no apparent heat here, and while there is certainly an element of “sweetness” this is truly a much dryer wine than 70% of Amarones…The flavors of the wine are very reminiscent of port (or a dry Touriga), minus the heat and most of the sweetness. Blackberry, soy sauce, tobacco, dark chocolate, and that specific “port-like” spice (some combo of cedar, sandalwood, and I-don’t-know-what), and a tart/acidic finish. Overall the wine is less “viscous” than less rich/heavy than most Shiraz and any vintage port. I think the salinity (and distinct soy/umami flavor elements) distinguish it from the vast majority of Shiraz I’ve had.

In any event, I don’t buy $150+ bottles of wine at all (unless you’re talking Cerbaiona), and certainly wouldn’t pay that kind of price for this, but this drinks in every respect like an outstanding $50-ish bottle of wine. It’s not a “nice” wine for your pork chop…it’s much more in line with an Amarone–either a finisher/dessert wine (sans sweetness) or a stand-alone wine of contemplation. I’ve got to say, that despite my expectations this is truly an outstanding bottle of wine that I would put in the 95 pt range and would be happy to substitute for an Amarone whenever such a wine is called for. Unlike Amarone, there is really NO “raisin”-ness to this wine.

John, if you’re complementing this wine then everyone can take it to the bank this is a good one! I won’t seek it out, but if I stumble upon it, I’ll grab a few.

Thanks!

Chris

John,

Great note. I’ve enjoyed numerous vintages of the Old Bastard and many other Aussies that languish on shelves. While the advent of the thick, sweet, cough-syrupy Aussie Shiraz that was pretty much made for the foreign market has certainly caused a large part of the backlash, pricing on a number of the really tasty wines is also a problem.

Wines that started out at $20-$30 ended up $100+ in subsequent vintages when the high 90 scores came. I don’t fault anyone for getting what that can, but I’m surprised more folks haven’t rethought their price points more. Pricing has fallen back an little, but not enough to get most people to take a leap like you did. There really are good Aussies out there and a number of them age very, very well - you just can’t get many people to try them.

I read the note and it didn’t sound that good to me. Basically I got that it is a nice cocktail wine or a decent dessert wine. Not my cup of tea for what I want from syrah.