Greek Wine dinner at Taverna Khione March 31st 2026

I don’t usually go to these things, but the menu was interesting and I trust my Greek buddy Marc Provencher. Glad I went!

1st course - Psissa: raw halibut with lemon, olive oil, pickled fennel, celeriac, thyme-roasted tomatos and fried sage… this was excellent, there wasn’t enough lemon juice to ‘cook’ the fish and it was impeccably fresh. The tomatos enhanced, the fennel and celeriac added crunch and the sage was just enough to give a faint herbal hint.
2014 Gentilini Robola - Greece’s indigenous white grapes can be shockingly good beyond Assyrtiko. This was both rich and racy, vividly citric but somehow also pleasingly round. The sage in the dish greatly harmonized the food and wine. Rated 92, don’t know if it will improve but not going downhill any time soon.

2nd course - Kalamaria: Whole squid braised and stuffed with ground lamb, rice and mint… this intrigued me and didn’t disappoint. I had been nervous about the mint, but I could not taste it! The flavors of the lamb and squid complemented and both went well with a piquant red sauce that I am guessing incorporated both tomato and pimento.
2023 Gentilini ‘Iri’s’ Vineyard - This is Mavrodaphne from the Tsigello clone, distinct from the Renio clone used for sweet wines. This is both earthy and flowery, full of red fruits, soft and round with nice heft. In style, it could pass for a really good Cotes du Rhone. Rated 89.5, seems mature.

3rd course - Papia: Pulled braised Maine duck served with a cherry sauce over mashed feta potatos with sage. I rarely see duck in Greek restaurants, here or in Greece. I loved the dish, but I could not taste the feta in the potatos and if you told me this was a Hungarian or German dish, I would have believed you with a big smile on my face. Real Eastern European soul food here, and no complaints.
2021 Tsiakkas Vamvakada - A complete unknown (to me). The grape is Maratheftiko, never heard of it. This was a light fragrant red, with red cherries but also some black fruit hints. It was a little light and lean for the dish (I would have reversed the service of the reds!), but a pleasant glass that I would enjoy more in warmer weather. Still good quality, nicely distinctive. Rated 87, probably fully mature.

The first two wines are from Cephalonia. The last was from Cyprus.

The small restaurant was full and got a little loud towards the end (who ever heard of a restaurant getting loud late in a wine dinner? :innocent:). The rep for the sponsoring importer did a good, and importantly, pithy job explaining the wines. And a Good Time was Had by All.

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Squid stuffed with lamb, it can’t get much better than that.

The food culture across the Mediterranean is incredible and while from a pure food perspective I probably slightly favour Spain, it’s very difficult to beat traditional Greek cooking served with their local varieties.