A quick disclosure - these notes are on a work dinner I hosted for clients and friends with wines from my business. That said, I hope they’re interesting enough to be worth posting on and, as none of them are commercially available, I hope I’m not breaking any rules.
These were served over a seriously good meal at La Trompette in west London.
Billecart Salmon Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru
I really rate this cuvee. Has the laserbeam tension of classy BdB, intense underlying minerality and a pleasing mid-palate richness from time on the lees.
To open proceedings we had a sharpener glass of white Burgundy. I served the Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Folatieres’ 2010 from Domaine Jean Chartron ‘open’ - as in with the label on view as opposed to with the cork still in the top of the bottle. This was rather better than I remembered it. Flattering on the nose with lemon butter scents a nicely snappy mineral core. The texture is taut and glassy and sweet floral tones are followed by a lick of salinity at the end. 17.5/20
Next up was a trio of blind wines. I told the guests that they had 3 white Burgs from the same vintage and then introduced some ‘options’ type questions as we teased out the identity of the wines:
- Batard Montrachet 2011 Domaine Jean Chartron
- Batard Montrachet 2011 Domaine Bachelet-Monnot
- Batard Montrachet 2011 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard
The Chatron was quite forward, attractive and fragrant. It didn’t seem totally convincing as Batard as, although there was a marked mineral aspect to the mid-palate the finish tapered away rather than broadening out as I usually find with this vineyard. The length of flavour was very good though and I suspect this was just a bit young. 17
At first I was a bit disappointed with the Bachelet-Monnot as I usually love these guys’ wines. It started out very reticent and tight. With air, the perfume started to blossom but this remained a tight, linear and very ‘straight’ young white. Definitely showing Grand Cru volume and the mass I expect from Batard, although the focus could nudge you in a Chevalier direction. This really needs time but I think it has the potential to really improve. 17
Fontaine-Gagnard was the group’s favourite, although the ranking for the trio did seem to keep changing through the night. I found the aroma here very smoky, exotic and spicy - much more pronounced and bold than either of the previous wines. On the palate this was broad, complex and multi-faceted. Really exciting, energetic and speaking loudly of Batard Montrachet to me. Perhaps the slightest warmth towards the finish. 18+/20
To ease ourselves into the reds we had a Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru ‘Les Charmes’ 2011 from Domaine Hudelot-Baillet to calibrate our palates. This was fresh and breezy with a cool, leafy edge. I didn’t find any ‘green’ green but there was certainly a crisp element to the fruit giving it a very Chambolle brightness and energy. 16.5
Next up a couple of blind reds along exactly the same lines as the whites. This time, the crew were informed that they had two reds of the same quality level but from different vintages. Options questions included ‘which is the older wine’ and ‘which is from a monopole vineyard’ - not that I’m sure how you taste monopolistic ownership.
- Bonnes Mares 2007 Nicolas Potel
- Grande Rue 2006 Domaine Francois Lamarche
The Bonnes Mares was sweet and evolved but with a slight muddiness spoiling the definition. This seems to be moving towards a tertiary phase and is gaining an earthy, mushroom edge. It’s sweet and full and, by itself, would be very satisfying. Broad on the finish and slightly rustic this was out-classed in this company. 16
The Grande Rue showed very young and tight for a 2006 - a vintage that I think of as being quite approachable at the moment. It really took its time to unfurl. As it did it became classically spicy, musky and Vosne-esque. The palate had excellent volume, spice and energy with plenty of snap and liveliness. There was a slight warmth of alcohol and plenty of punch and grip on the finish. 18.5
This next flight was the main event.
Lupe Cholet’s 1947 Grands Echezeaux still had a densely coloured core. The nose showed a slight volatility and had something of an earthbound quality - as opposed to the ethereal scents of some of the wines to follow. It was rich, sweet and a very good old wine, if slightly low in acid. The finish was starting to dry out and was sustained by the orange rind notes of VA. On it’s own it would be pretty special. 16.5
Clos des Lambrays 1949
From the Cosson era but apparently something of a legend. This had amazing depth of colour still. The mature aromas were a bit funky and leathery - low level brett - but there was no lack of density and also lots of spice. The palate was alive to the point of being explosive. Masses of verve and cut as the wine just snapped and evolved on the palate. This was rich, complete and harmonious. A superb showing and serious contender for the night’s top honours. 18.5
La Tache 1953
Slightly brown and murky colour but just the most sensational aromatics. Rose petals, spice and floral tones. Hugely vital and spicy on the palate but weightless and balletic - in total contrast to the Lambrays’ power and density. Just starting to fray on the finish, but very long and delicate. 18.5
Not wanting to serve wines that might ‘compete’ with that flight we returned to the Billecart fizz with our dessert, then all restraint went out the window and we pulled the cork from my back up bottle - a mag of 1961 NSG Boudots wearing an Averys label. No idea who the grower might have been but the mag was a lot of fun. Sweet, vibrant and very young and fruity compared to the previous reds.
Cheers,
Matthew
