Calera makes one that has some zip, especially when young. It can be pretty mineral-laden and crisp, but with a richness that Viognier should show. It can be quite different vintage to vintage, but has always been interesting.
Melinda and I went Saturday night and had a blast, we sat at the two seats facing the right side of the cooking line. I had to buy a t-shirt as the wood oven was just so warm! Food was fun, well-prepared and they sent us several freebies. Highlights were the fried oysters and Shishito peppers, the goat belly with lobster is very decadent indeed. Wine service really excellent, we had a slightly corked 04 Musar and this was handled with elan. So many places could take lessons from this service staff! All-in with tip and t-shirt was just over $300 for the two of us. Money very well spent!
We also loved Publican and The Gage both David, so thank you very much! Hard to know which dish was best, those carrots @ The Publican or the Shishito peppers @ GatG.