The Wagner Stempel Vom Porphyr is excellent, but not that inexpensive at $35-$40. A great “mini GG” as noted above, and a value compared to most GG’s but more than someone looking for an “introduction” may want to pay. But W-S also make a plain Riesling Trocken that sells in the mid-teens and is a terrific introduction to the dry style. Actually, there’s a lot of good, basic trocken under $20 if you look around. Just pick the top producers. Rebholz makes an excellent one, among many others.
I am of a mixed opinion when it comes to recommending people’s first encounters with certain wines/styles. On one hand, to start too low might be underwhelming, whereas too high is price prohibitive. I often think that it is better to try an A-/B+ example, even if that costs say $35-50, rather than get a $15-20 decent example that doesn’t really show off what is so special about the wine region/style in question.
Lots of exceptions where you needn’t pay so much to get a genuinely exciting example, but…
and where you are located, you are certainly aware that Riesling is not the only interesting white variety—
zB the Weißburgunder Schlangenpfiff from the Kessler boys in Godramstein— or their neighbour Rebholz in Siebeldingen’s WB Sonnenschein GG…
Right you are, James. Rebholz, Becker, Kranz, Münzberg (as you mention), Bergdolt, Müller-Catoir, Meßmer, Knipser, Kuhn, Schaefer, Gies-Düppel, and especially Dr. Wehrheim (Mandelberg GG) make incredible Weißburgunder (Pinot Blanc). In fact, the world’s best come from the Pfalz. And I have no reservations saying so despite the great examples from Austria, Friuli, Südtirol, Oregon, and yes, to a LESSER extent, Alsace.
The best Weißburgunder imported to the US may be from Austria, but have you tasted Bergdolt GGs or the Dr. Wehrheim Mandelberg GG? Unfortunately in the US, they would likely cost around 70USD if they’re imported at all. Hey, I like Austrian WB too, but the Mandelberg is one of the great white wines of the world from any variety -2010 is so taut and mineral and complex, it might be the greatest WB ever made.
The variety seems to need Muschelkalk to show its best, and luckily the Südpfalz has that soil in abundance –most of the Muschelkalk in the Mittelhaardt is of course, planted to Riesling, but Weingüter in the Südliche Weinstraße really focused on Weißburgunder as part of the quality turn-around there, much to its benefit.
I love Weißburgunder and we normally drink a couple of bottles every week. It is very popular here and taken seriously by producers. A tough sell in the US, but maybe that will one day change as well. Or, I can dream.
I think that “best” dry reislings would be the same as saying best Marc Rothko Paintings or best Beatle songs. If its a list of favorites, thats great. Riesling, a grape that makes stunning increadable dry wines needs more friends. I have loved older dry wines, whether from the Alsace or Germany. A perfect wine for some dishes, and always light enouugh to take outside for a picnic. When it is young, it often comes across a bit wet stone flavored, and that doesn’t do much for people. When it mellows a bit (the English used to look for “a slightly brown hock”…not that much mellowing) and served at the right temperature it becomes something special.
Currently I’m having a riproaring success in NYC with the 2011er Weisser Burgunder from Gut Hermannsberg (I sell it)—and this wine manages to be strikingly attractive without any trace of Muschelkalk in the picture, being rather a blend of the Melaphyr and Carbonschiefer from the Schloßböckelheimer Kupfergrube with the Schotterlehm of Winzenheimer Berg…
no doubt, the Dry Rieslings from Dönnhoff are great and espcecially his 2011 GGs are truely impressive. But this Top 10-Ranking by FEINSCHMECKER makes me laugh.
That is a fine Betrieb -they are really turning some heads these days. Nice that you picked them up (and I like the new label -very Prussian!)
Yeah, I’d love to meet up. Though it looks like I’ll only be up there for the day on Monday the 25th. I think my train leaves around 21:00. PM me as it gets closer and we can at the least hit up a couple of stands together.