Germany Wine Trip Report - May 2026

[DavidWalsh]

Arrived in FRA Wed May 20th at the new Terminal 3, breezed through passport control, gathered rental car then sped off to Rheinhessen for a tasting at Weingut Gutzler. Not currently imported into the US.

Gutzler is a small family estate in Gundheim (directly south of Westhofen), that moved from mixed agriculture three generations back and now focus entirely on wine and distillates. Rumor has it, but I could be wrong, this agricultural move was typical in Rheinhessen over the last century.

Known as a Pinot house, they also make fantastic chardonnay (both oaked and less oaked), riesling, pinot gris, cabernet, pinot blanc and rose. With holdings in the famous Morstein Grosse Lage vineyard, they produce both a riesling and pinot noir. Other GG site holdings include Liebfrauenstift Kirchenstuck, Brunnenhauschen and Hollenbrand.

The tasting was hosted by Miriam and we left with the following:

• Morstein GG Riesling 2024 (EU44) Highly concentrated and mineral driven. Nice example of Morstein Riesling at a very good price.
• Liebfrauenstift Kirchenstück Riesling 2024 (EU37) More tropical and stone fruity than the Morstein as this vineyard is warmer than Morstein.
• Dorn Dürkheimer Silvaner 2024 – 91 Years Old Vines (EU23) Mineral driven, if you like silvaner, you will love this.
• Westhofener Riesling 2024 (EU23) Stone fruity with long elegant finish. Great value.
• Westhofener Chardonnay 2024 (EU23) Delicate, soft easy-drinking, elegant chardonnay with little-to-no oak textures.
• Pinot Noir 2023 (EU12!) Their flagship wine. “Selective harvesting, gentle processing, destemmed, classic maceration for 19 days, 12 months in used barriques and 500-liter wooden barrels.” Easy easy easy drinking and enjoyable Pinot - typical Pinot characteristics with fine acidity and freshness.
• Blanc de Noir 2024 (EU10.2) Pale white in color, mineral and soft fruits, balanced acidity.

[DavidWalsh]

Finally in Traben-Trarbach, Mosel after time in Cologne. Stopped at Bungert in Wittlich on the way here for groceries and wine. Recommendation on another string by @Robert_Dentice and he wasn’t kidding when he said there are bottles here, not found in the US - case in point, there are 7-8 Meyer-Nakel Spatburgunder bottles when we only routinely see two in the US.

Next up, Martin Mullen tasting this afternoon.

[WillH]

Thanks for your posts and opportunity to live vicariously. Keep em coming.

[DavidWalsh]

A little late in posting this, however, 'twas a culturally rich, educational and fun tasting at Weingut Mullen last Wednesday. Really helps to set up the appointment beforehand, so that a small family winery can accommodate you and provide someone fluent in English. Arrived at winery in town of Traben and was greeted by Martin Mullen himself, then joined by son Jonas and his wife Susanne - the whole fam-damily! I explained how I came to request the tasting, availability of their wines in the US and recommendations by Wine Beserkers. We chatted and laughed for about 20minutes before Martin and Jonas excused themselves and wine tasting began. I had asked to focus more on the drier styles, and Susanne had suggested that we compare/contrast vineyards, production year and grape sugar level at harvest.

Eleven trocken rieslings tasted in all from Krover Paradies, Krover Letterlay, Krover Steffensberg and Trarbacher Huhnerberg, ending with a 1997 Krover Paradies Riesling Auslese Trocken - tasted over 3 hours!

Weingut Mullen farms ~5 hectares in total, produces predominantly riesling with about 3% Spatburgunder. Fermentation is performed in wooden vessels with no temperature control and no yeast innoculation. Their portfolio is pretty extensive, everything from trocken kabinett to trockenbeerenauslese.

Finally left with the following (all dry/trocken):

• 1997 Krover Paradies Riesling Auslese (mind blowing)
• 2024 Krover Steffensberg Riesling Spatlese
• 2022 Krover Letterlay Riesling Kabinett
• 2024 Krover Letterlay Riesling Spatlese
• 2023 Trarbacher Huhnerberg Riesling Spatlese

As mentioned, this tasting lasted over 3 hours which is incredibly generous for a small family winery to provide their customers. I truly appreciated Susanne’s hospitality, humor, knowledge and openness, even when English words escaped her, German humor and Google were available. These kind of tastings are so very different from what we experience in the US, and why we continue to return and seek out similar experiences.

Thanks to @Lars_Carlberg and @Robert_Dentice for the recommendation. Hope to see @Lyle_Fass bringing some Martin Mullen wines into the US soon.

[DavidWalsh]

On Friday I had set up an appointment at Weingut Vollenweider in Trarbach, with the winemaker Moritz Hoffman. Arriving at the winery, no-one was home but soon a vineyard tractor drove up the lane and Moritz jumped out. We entered the winery, grabbed glasses and water, then sat down to to taste.

Turns out, Moritz and his team have completely changed the website and naming convention of his wines, starting with a Village wine, now named “Mosel Riesling”. This used to be named Felsenfest. The rest of the dry/trocken rieslings are named after the source parcel within the Wolfer Goldgrube vineyard, hence Unterste Jonpfad, Im Schottel, and Im Reiler. The Schimbock Monopol riesling is sourced from adjacent Traberner Schimbock site. This naming convention is very similar to how Clemens Busch does it. Most, if not all of his vines, are grown on grey slate.

Another two hour plus tasting - where Moritz honestly discussed the stresses of farming, climate change, wine making, yeast contact, growing up in the Mosel, international commerce, continued improvements to the wines and winery, and of course, politics! Just not used to this level of openness and honesty!

Europe has had unseasonably hot temperatures these past two weeks. Daytime temperatures in the Mosel reached 29-31C (84-88F) causing vintners to manage excessive leaf growth. This, prior to rain being predicted for next week, forcing vintners back into their vineyards to spray for crop protection. As Moritz mentioned, “this is a stressful time.”

Weingut Vollenweider wines are somewhat different from the “typical” Mosel wines. They aim for “mineral-driven wines that express themselves less through fruit and more through salinity and structure.” This is no BS - it is very on-point. Some are broader in profile due to the vineyard topography, some are more complex due to European root-stock but all strive for minerality, salinity and structure.

Organically farmed, hand harvested, basket pressed, vinified in large oak casks or stainless steel (Mosel Riesling - hence the very slight spritz), indigenous yeasts and long lees ageing. Minimal stabilizing sulfur addition due the low wine pH.

Overall, another stellar Mosel wine tasting, combing excellent wines with very generous, honest, communicative and accommodating winemaker. Really got a sense now, on why Vollenweider’s wines are so unique.

[Rahsaan_M]

@DavidWalsh

Moritz and his team have completely changed the website and naming convention of his wines…
Weingut Vollenweider wines are somewhat different from the “typical” Mosel wines. They aim for “mineral-driven wines that express themselves less through fruit and more through salinity and structure.” This is no BS - it is very on-point. Some are broader in profile due to the vineyard topography, some are more complex due to European root-stock but all strive for minerality, salinity and structure.

Yet another reason why “wineries” are not the same when they go through leadership transitions.

Interesting points about comparisons to typical Mosel. Under Daniel, I always found the wines richer and fruitier, even in the Mosel idiom. So this is a shift?

[Robert_Dentice]

Great reports. This thread should be moved to the main wine talk thread so more read it. The travel thread is more about travel - hotels, restaurants etc. This has so much great wine content! Thank you.

[Robert_Dentice]

@Rahsaan_M

Interesting points about comparisons to typical Mosel. Under Daniel, I always found the wines richer and fruitier, even in the Mosel idiom. So this is a shift?

I think towards the end of his career his wines were less rich and the drys were different than the sweets in terms of richness / weight.

[DavidWalsh]

And when you are feeling somewhat energetic, and wanting to see the vineyards close-up, rent an e-bike. We did from Camphausen Velo & Cafe in Traben-Trarbach (https://www.veloundcafe.de/). Great service.

Day 1, Traben-Trarbach to Bernkastel. Option to return by boat.
Day 2, Traben-Trarbach to Bullay. Option to return by train.

[gavin.f]

Way to go. Keep it up!

[DavidWalsh]

One last stop before flying home…town of Walluf. Stopped in at JB Becker’s Weingarten for a glass of riesling. Weather was perfect as I sipped through 2024 Eltviller Rheinberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken and 2024 Wallufer Berg Bildstock Riesling Kabinett. HaJo Becker was enjoying a glass with a friend. The Weingarten is a very cool concept - bring your own food, buy some wine!