Copenhagen is a small market with limited interest in the new German generation outside of Wasenhaus. So it has not been much of an issue to source other wines produced at minuscule amounts.
There is just no importer right now. 2018 is the latest Dostert wines I can find here.
For those who donât know, Jonas Dostert didnât produce any Pinot Noir in 2021 and has postponed the release of his 2022 Pinot Noir.
@Lars_Carlberg How cool was it to see Ulli with the highest score along with Jonas and Twardowski in the MFW report!
Mosel Wine Merchant, which predates Mosel Fine Wines, was ahead of its time also with red wine, such as from Stein (including Red Light), not to mention Enderle & Moll in Baden.
Just received a newsletter noting that the new wines from Sven Enderle will arrive in a month or so. Pretty excited to try them/it (donât know how many different wines he actually makes).
Super excited to try them. Mine are on the way.
A couple of days ago, I let Mosel Fine Wines know that Hofgut Falkenstein has only two remaining parcels of Spätburgunder, neither of which is a mutation. Both are in Herrenberg, formerly known as Zuckerberg. The parcel at the foot of the hill has young vines, whereas the one on top of the hill, which you visited a few years ago, has old vines. In the future, the style of red wine will be like the 2021 vintage. Johannes Weber might put âSpätburgunderâ back on the label.
So as much as I like Wasenhaus, as much have I been critical of Am Kreuz. But a very good friend of mine blinded me on this tonight. A humbling experience⌠what a wine.
The blind.
The great equalizer.
The dream breaker.
The wallet killer.
The ego buster.
The tear maker.
Yes.
The blind.
Finally getting to some notes from the Spätburgunderstudy. There is more to come!
These are really just observations with some fill in information and knowledge from prior experience with some of the wines. It is hard to focus when you are the event organizer.
2019 Ulli Stein Red Light! Kabinett Trocken
(11.5% abv)
Light, ethereal, vibrant and energetic. A delicious and comforting wine that pairs well with food. Perfect to serve with a slight chill and it gets better with air. I buy and cellar all of Ulliâs Pinots regularly. I am however conflicted because I adore him so takes my reviews with a huge grain of salt.
2021 Ulli Stein Spätburgunder Trocken
(11.5% abv)
Same abv as the Red Light! but more structure and fruit and a decent amount of funk. It is translucent in a way that is really starting to define the Mosel Pinots that I love. It also has a wonderful vibrant and savory quality. Simply delicious is what I have in my notes.
I highly recommend checking out the reviews on Ulli Steinâs red wines in the most recent Mosel Fine Wine article entitled The Story of Red Mosel (Issue No. 69), it is wonderful to see Ulli finally getting some recognition and I would add the highest scoring wine!
2021 Enderle & Moll Liason
(12.5% abv)
From the Vom Boden site âThe âLiaison,â a sort of middle-wine-premier-cru-style, is a blend from younger vines in the Grand Cru sites. âYoung,â it should be said, at around 45 years of age, which the French will often call âvieilles vignes.â
I first tasted the 2021 Enderle & Molls at the Vom Boden 10 anniversary tasting at Die Mosel in Traben-Trarbach. I was very happy to see the wines were clean and back on track. The 21s are high acid and reflective of the vintage. The 21s are wonderfully light and tension filled wines for those who like high acid. The Laison is super energetic and with a wah wah peddle like acidity throughout. I really like it but it might not be for everyone. This is similar to the 2022 Kontakt from Phil Lardot.
2021 Keller Spätburgunder Reserve
(12.5%)
Very young and promising, showing just a tad bit of oak. I have now learned after a few 10+ year old Keller Pinots that these need age. This wine is definitely approachable now but will get substantially better with age. It is full of energy with a zippy refreshing quality whilst also being elegant / regal.
2014 JB Becker Spätburgunder Kabinett Trocken Rheingau (12% abv)
A recent release from the winery. Hajo declassified his Spätburgunders in 2014 and only made this one wine. It has a tad of green, it is rustic and a bit one dimensional. I do like its one note but in a lineup of stellar German Pinots this did not really stand out. Fair priced at around $30 fora 9 year old wine. I think it will get a bit more interesting with even more age.
2019 Weingart Spay In de Zech Spätburgunder
(13.5% abv)
Here we have our first entrant from the Mittelrhein. My first time with this wine. This is ripe and has lots of structure. It is a very high quality wine. It was one of the many surprises of the tasting. I did not spend enought time with it but noted I wanted to seek our more which I did.
A much more detailed note from David Schildnecht confirms my initial positive reaction and desire to try this wine again:
âThis installment of Weingart Pinot Noir leads with that grapeâs savory, meaty side and offers a correspondingly mouthwatering palate impression. Thatâs not to suggest fruit is lacking. Pit- and rose hip-inflected sour cherry penetrates on the nose and delivers satisfying juiciness thereafter. Hints of talcum and vanilla offer restrained and harmonious accents on a finish that also introduces notes of leather and peat while projecting the salinity and meaty savor that characterize the nose and midpalate. At 13.5% alcohol, this is full but exhibits no heatâŚthis 2019 resoundingly confirms the wisdom of Weingartâs having planted Pinot Noir on this steep hillside by his house."
2019 Dautel Oberstenfelder Forstberg Spätburgunder GG (13% abv)
Here we have our first entrant from Wurttemberg, an area where I am surprised there is not more Pinot grown, especially because I do believe there is some limestone. Overall I find this to be a light, nice wine but did not move me in the way that many others did at the tasting. The GG Moniker does not seem to mean much in terms of quality. A friend at the tasting who knows these wines well and is a very experienced taster loves them so I will try again.
2022 Glow Glow Spätburgunder
(12.5% abv; crown cap)
This has a ton funky reductive qualities, most likely due to the crown cap. I am guessing the funk will blow off. It does have a nice juicly fruit character that fights with the funk. It is meant to be served chilled. It is a nice wine with a strong natural wine imprint that would probably be really nice on a warm sunny day in Paris with some charcuterieâŚbut then again what wouldnât! For what it is worth I am a big fan of the light juicy whites from this Domain. The winemaker is married to one of the Brand Brothers so they are a German Natural wine power couple!
2021 Pfeffingen Blanc de Noir
(12% abv)
This is a super delicious wine. Lots of lemon / lime refreshing, vibrant fruit qualities. It is truly fascinating that this came from Pinot Noir and worth trying just to experience this. I highly recommend trying this wine. I need to find some for myself and soon as spring has arrived in NYC.
2018 Raumland Cuvee Marie-Louise Brut Sekt
This was one of the wines of the tasting and a really wonderful suprise. 47 months on the less. It is super complex. A barely yellow mostly clear wine that is vibrant and attention getting. It is so bright and refreshing and dare I say riesling like, especially the minerality. I would describe this wine as more riesling like with bubbles than anthying comparable to Champagne.
2016 Rebholz Spätburgunder
(12.5% abv)
I will be honest despite, loving their rieslings and weissburgunders I have not loved the few reds I have had from Rebholz. This was admittedly the best of the ones I had but it did not change my opinion. It was murky and ripe and just lacked excitement.
2020 Salway Kenkenberg GG Spätburgunder
(14% abv) Unfiltered
I am really liking Salway these days. To me they are more smokey and rustic than Wasenhaus. I think they make a nice addition to all of the Wasenhaus and Enderle & Moll I have in my cellar. And in the U.S. although not much comes in they are really easy to find. A couple of recent entry level wine were excellent. This has a great combination of rusticity and fruit and held its 14 abv extremely well, interesting note 14% abv was the highest out of 75+ wines.
Liaison was formerly called âVillagesâ when I first introduced the the wines of Enderle & Moll to the States.
Thanks Robert! What a tasting and looking to test of the notes! 
Didnât have any of the Stein vintages you had but (not sure if I mentioned up the thread so might be a repeat), the 2018 redvolution I had in January was terffic. Also happy to hear about E&M, missed out on vintages after 2018, but bough some bottles of 2020, 2021 to taste for myself. Will keep an eye out for some of the others as well.
Thanks, Robert. Still waiting to be moved by Dautel as well over here.
For those not on the Fass Selections list, Lyle offered the first, in his words Grand Cru, from Sven Enderleâs new project âVom Keuperâ. Needless to say I am extremely excited about this! I have not tasted it but I trust Sven.
2013 Schnaitmann Simon Roth Spatburgunder
(13% abv)
Another wine from Wurttemberg. This was a very nice wine. Perfect balance. Nice ripe fruit but not over the top. Not showing any tertiary flavors yet despite its age of 10 years. I would like to try more wine from this producer who I am not that familiar with.
From The German Wine Collection site:
SIMONROTH is the brand name for our high quality range of red wines, established with our first vintage in 1997. The term derives from a
medieval settlement called âImmosrodâ, founded at the foot of the Kappelberg. In chronicles, the surrounding vineyards are called âthe best
land of the countryâ. Still, the grapes for these valueable red wines grow in the best VDP-classified vineyard sites.
The soil is coloured marl, reed sandstone.
2021 Rings Kallstadt Unfiltered
(13% abv)
This needs time to come together. At this young age it is very dark, among the darkest wines at the tasting. Very ripe with some oak showing, nice tannins which suggests it will age. I think this will come together in the end.
From the Winery Website:
Estate-grown grapes from vineyards in Kallstadt, where the soils are characterized by limestone.
Vineyard - Buckwheat, radish and clover aerate the soil and attract useful animals. Horse dung fertilizes the soil naturally. We remove leaves selectively and work with low yields.
Vinification - Harvest by hand, second sorting and destemming in the winery. In warm years we add some whole clusters. After a short maceration the crushed must ferments with wild yeasts. Aged in new and reused French barriques. No fining, no filtration.
I had the opportunity to compare two Village Wines from major German Producers a few days ago:
Rings Spätburgunder Vom Kalkstein 2018
(12,5%)
Brick red in the glass, still quite young in color.
Nose is dominated by Strawberry sauce and some dark coffee. With air, the slightly lactic tone disappears, everything becomes more serious, raspberry.
Very pronounced acidity (particularly remarkable for 2018), not at all tending towards breadth, laser beam. But not of outstanding in length. It remains somewhat diffuse in its berry notes. Pepper and a little ash. Ethereal notes, chili.
88 P
Fßrst Klingenberg Spätburgunder 2017
Slightly cloudy, already shows some ripeness, brighter than Rings.
It smells of wild strawberry, red fruits dominate, very clear on the nose and hints of foliage.
On the palette the acidity is fantastically integrated, the wine is very elegant, almost silky, develops a great drinking flow. Red fruit, some forest floor and a little bit of blood. This is fantastic!
91 P
Thanks for the great notes. Furst is hard to get in the U.S. They just signed on with a new importer (Wasserman) so I hope they will be easier to get. Furst is clearly one of the most important producers of Pinot in Germany. Interestingly they went with a Burgundy importer.
2020 Schlossgut Diel Caroline Reserve Pinot Noir
(abv 12.5%)
This was one of the most Burgundian Pinots of the tasting. Deep ruby color. Extremely beautiful wine. Elegant. Balanced. A hint of mineral. Complete wine that was extremely refined. Caroline worked in Burgundy for I think DRC and maybe Dujac and it shows in this wine. Fairly priced at $65.
I would like to try this again with some age.
Enjoyed this last night with some roast chicken. I should I add I picked this up at Dan Posnerâs Grapes Wine Co Store for only $29, it must have been an importer close out because it had the prior importers back label.
2012 Ziereisen Schulen
(12.5% abv)
Enticing aromatics with lots of fruit and iodine. Dark Ruby color with a little murkiness and starting to show just a little age. Excellent balance and quite delicious. I peeked at the cellartracker notes and I was not expecting much from this wine, on the contrary it is very good. Within an hour or so it picked up some tertiary spice, rhubarb and became more complex. One of the better showings from a Ziereisen wine for me and a very good value.
Happy to hear!
In my relatively limited experience of Ziereisen, the (red) wines have required a time to come around. Usually better on the second day.
