Interesting re: Darting. I haven’t had anything recent from them, but this Spätburgunder sounds very intriguing.
So much depends on the terrain and training system. Jonas took over parcels, mostly young vines, from his family winery. He has about 3 ha now. His vines are trained on wire trellis, and he can also drive a tractor in his vineyards, which makes it much more efficient for canopy management and plant protection. If he only had 3 ha on steep, terraced slopes with vines trained on single wooden stakes, he’d be at his limit as a one-man show.
I believe Jonas has three hectares.
I am in the Mosel for the Vom Boden 10 year anniversary party, some quick notes / observations before heading to Paris.
Yesterday there was a walk around tasting at Die Mosel for all of the non Mosel producers so I decided to focus primarily on Spätburgunder.
A few high level observations. I tasted a number of 2021s and similar to the whites it is a lighter, higher acid vintage.
I have never really focused on the Shelter Wines, for no reason, other than it happens. I really liked the wines. I would put them in the slightly rustic camp, similar to the J Walter wines with a bit more fruit. The wines are under $30 in the U.S. which is an excellent value. Also, these are all grown on limestone.
I loved the 2021 Enderle & Moll Laison - it was high acid and zippy! Reminded me of a Jura Pinot.
2021 is also a lighter vintage for the entry-level Wasenhaus, we drank a bottle with slight chill after the tasting that was excellent.
We also ordered a few bottles off the list at Die Mosel:
2013 Jean Stodden Herrenberg Spätburgunder GG - this was very good. It has aged nicely. Not too much oak and beautiful fruit.
2017 Ulli Stein - This was excellent and everyone at the table loved it. Also a great value in the U.S.
2019 Daniel Twardowski Pinot Noix Ardoise - Personally I like this better than his reserve. This was elegant, light and overall really wonderful.
I also started the day at Markus Molitor. Yep left the party at 4:00 AM after a long rieslingstudy with Ulli Stein and was at my 9:30 tasting bright and early at 9:00 am!
I tasted two Spatburgunders:
2020 Graacher Himmelreich - The oak has beeb dialed back quite a bit at Molitor. I really liked this but it does need some age.
2020 Zeltinger Schlossberg * - For drinking today, I prefer this. Lighter and delicious.
told 'ya about the shift at Molitor.
starting w the '18s, things have gotten a lot prettier and not oak obtrusive…
Love the Schlossberg *…all French massale…young vines, but is shaping up to be a beauty.
Thanks for sharing Robert - happy to hear about the E&M, and funny that you mentioned Jura. Can’t remember which vintage (of either wine) but had Labet which reminded me of an E&M, but that’s maybe because that was my reference point, and have to say that at least to my taste the E&M was the better wine with more drive and intensity and at the same time at least as complex.
Like in the good old student days, perhaps the Riesling studies has prepared you well both mentally and physically. Nonetheless very impressive and the party sounds like an amazing time
Has anyone had any experience with Scheuermann?
I’ve tried the Grauburgunder and it’s a pretty nice one.
Word is getting around.
Thanks for posting. Not a bad, albeit short, article. I agree with everything.
I recommend to buy his wines.
Sorry I have not been keeping the thread going! Lots of work and pleasure travel. Rest assured I have been studying Spätburgunder!
2016 Jürggen Von der Mark "One Bourbon, One Scotch, One Beer
From Baden. Very small producer who I believe is a Master Somm. This wine was excellent. Elegant, perfect amount of fruit. Impeccable balance. A joy to drink. I think I paid $43 for this in 2021 from Lyle Fass direct from the domain! I wish I had bought a case.
2021 Philip Reib Rose - Also from Baden. This is a natural style rose that was a little too dull for me. I would try another bottle and curious what his other wines are like. It is $42 in the U.S. which is crazy when you think of the likes of the AJ Adam Rose which I liked 10x more (totally different style) at about $25.
2020 Makalie Chapelle - This was an overall nice wine. I ordered it at Noma. It was just a tad too ripe for my personal tastes. Our table of 6 were split. Half absolutely loved it and half thought it too ripe and polished.
2018 Wasenhaus Bellen - From the same source as a recent bottle that was closed. This was all around stunning. Still very young and needs at least 3-5 more years.
2020 Wasenhaus Bellen - A restaurant purchase so I don’t regret it. But way too young. Still very enjoyable and clearly a serious bottle of wine.
Anyone else drinking Spätburgunder???
Comical for us inmates
Had a few at a good friends bachelor party last weekend.
Makalié, Spätburgunder Rosé, 2021.
Top stuff. Reminded me more of a Jura poulsard. But so delicious with a beautiful salty note.
We had it next to two different 2020 Rosés from Hammelmann. Everyone preferred Makalié.
We also had Wasenhaus 2021 Spätburgunder. My second time with it. I really like it! (See note above). So happy i got 12 bottles.
At dinner we had the 2020 Kanzel from Wasenhaus. Young? Yes! But delicious. A few people who never had a Wasenhaus before was very impressed.
I like them. But they do indeed feel a bit more ripe and fruit forward than something like Wasenhaus. But with their acidity profile and low abv it is personally not an issue
Their base Spätburgunder is a completely different story though. Lighter, more transparent and more on the wild side of things.
Did it reconfirm or change your view of top bottling from them?
It is certainly up there with Bellen and Mohlin. But to be honest then i was too drunk at that point to make a fair comparison
Thanks a great excuse to open a second sometime in a near future
As I still doubt the longvity of the wines, I will certainly drink more top stuff a little younger. I have enough to do so.
With that said then I probably wait another year for the next one. Based on the current 19’s and the 2018’s a year ago then they seem to hit a sweet spot for me at the 19’s current age.
I opened a bottle of the 19 Wasenhaus Spatburgunder at a recent BBQ at home for freinds not into wine - thinking it might ne a bit of a challenge but fun to share - we ended up opening 4 bottles I think.
Only every now and then, and more out of a sense of duty as it rarely brings joy. The new hot names (Wasenhaus, Hammelmann, Markovic, Saalwaechter… ) leave me cold, the old masters rarely deliver. Another case in point:
Good acidity, earth, mushrooms, forest floor. Bland, without class and tension. More Nebbiolo than Pinot. I understand that Ziereisen polarizes, no sympathy points for this bottling. One small glass was more than enough, I had to pull a Claret from the cellar to save the evening.
I will take a Chambolle, any Chambolle, over almost any Spaetburgunder, any time. Unless it is a Keller, or Baltes, or HE, maybe Twardowski.