Very disappointing bottle of 2022 Thörle Hölle Spätburgunder. The 2021 was rich, sexy and seductive, yet elegant, so I was expecting an elevation in the hedonism here, given the vintage. Frankly, I wasn’t sure if it would be too much for me, because 2021 just held the line at my limits.
But the 2022 was more structured, tannic, backwards and difficult (and no change with extended airing). Maybe this becomes charming with age, but I have enough red Burgundy that needs age, don’t need to buy these wines for that!
Will have to re-taste 2021 to see how those are evolving, as it’s been almost a year. Maybe I missed the sexy period for the 2022.
From what I experienced, 2022 was definitely tricky. I either feel that the quality is outstanding or not good at all. 2021 is my go-to vintage right now.
Different topic: PINOT NOIR LANDWEIN
I just came across the 2019 Jancis Robinson article, “Wine’s Salon des Refusés.” My new Baden winery sent it to me. She came to this winery and tasted back in 2019. This was just a few years after launching the winery. I love Landwein from Germany and wineries that make wine based on their terroir and philosophy, and not to please a tasting panel.
RECOMMENDED BADEN LANDWEIN PINOTS.
These wines should be of serious interest to those looking for better-priced alternatives to red Burgundy. (For tasting notes see The beards of Baden).
Brenneisen, Chätsch and Molassefels Pinot Noir 2016
Enderle & Moll, Buntsandstein Ida and Muschelkalk Pinot Noir 2016
Max Geitlinger Spätburgunder and Maximal Pinot Noir 2016
Greiner, Steinkreuz Spätburgunder 2017
Michael S Kintz Spätburgunder 2015
Hanspeter Ziereisen, Jaspis, Rhini and Schulen Spätburgunder 2016 and
Jaspis Alte Reben Spätburgunder 2014
Yes, didn’t love 2022 for riesling. But didn’t find it tricky, mostly just wines that lacked the extra excitement. Have had some outstanding Spätburgunders from 2022 (e.g. Fürst) and this Thörle was supposed to be great, according to the salesperson…
Opened a 21 Wasenhaus Village level a few days ago and it was lovely. Left 1/4 in the bottle and just came back to it and it is just stunning. So elegant, pure and just a joy to drink. Really impressed.
Can you spot it?
A friend of mine poured this 2014 Huber blind for me. It was the last wine of the evening, so no detailed notes, but it was holding up very well and a joy to drink.
I got both a white and red 2023 Malterdinger waiting for me in my wine fridge and is even more excited to try them now. I know 14 was the transition year at Huber and I heard they are even better now.
This instantly brought my mind to the red wines of Emmanuel Rouget from Burgundy, which I have tasted a few times recently. The mix of darker cherries and oak-driven caramel-like notes blends seamlessly and led me there. A very subtle hint of cranberries and a touch of smoke linger in the background.
The palate is already very good, though I would have preferred a bit more intensity on the nose. Maybe time will help with that. But a joy to drink already.
2022 Adamswein Ingelheim Spätburgunder
Tart crisp and backwards. Benefits from a decant to gain flesh and body, although it is an entry-level wine that is not particularly deep. Still, it eventually shows nice elegant fruit with whole cluster spice notes and a crisp delicate side of Spätburgunder that reminds me more of Pernand Vergelesses than Rheinhessen. Curious to taste the higher-end bottlings.
I believe I shared unconfirmed rumors previously about Enderle & Moll - now it’s confirmed. I received a message from Florian that 2023 sadly will be the last vintage of this project.
Due to frost no 2024 wine, and in 2025 (on even downscaled volume) most of the harvest was spoiled or not of sufficient level so no wines were produced.
On a positive note, Florian expressed that he and his partner: “…will certainly continue making wine, but when and where is still undecided.”. But before that they will take a break.
For me as well, much thanks to an article of Eric Asimov. IIRC, you had a part in that as well (thanks!).
A cool experience! Sven comes to Amsterdam every now and then for, what I think is, a yearly event. We haven’t been able to match our schedules, hopefully next time he comes…
