Day 1: Dundee & Eola Amity Hills
Antica Terra
This was some of the most fun I’ve had at a winery tasting. The format is creative and unique. We tasted ten wines, only half of which are produced by Maggie and one of her three brands (Antica Terra, Lillian, The Glories). The others come from the “collective” which include wines from around the world (typically old world) that inspire Maggie, and serve as a fascinating point of comparison to Antica Terra wines.
There wasn’t a bad wine here, and we went from great to stunning across the board. The highlights for me included The Glories Number 1 (2018) which is a Chardonnay blend from sites in Oregon and California. It sounds sacrilegious, and perhaps so, but damn this wine just worked. Stunning complexity, acid, and length, with deep, glass-filling, aromatics.
Then, there’s the “high bar” board which offers up either a taste or a glass of some truly hard-to-get bottles. My eye was immediately drawn to the 1961 Lopez de Heredia Gran Riserva - it did not disappoint. If I didn’t have two more tastings to get to that first day, I would have stayed longer and enjoyed some Dauvissat and Roumier. Such a special and fun place.
2014 Delamotte Blanc de Blancs
Outstanding freshness and acidity here with refined bubbles. Green apples and baked goods with a long mouthwatering finish. 92pts.
2019 Clos Mogador Nelin
A rare white Priorat, with tons of overt slate-y minerality characteristic of the licorella soils. Some fruit, but it’s the minerals that shine here. Really unique wine and unlike anything else I can think of. 91pts.
2020 Antica Terra Aequorin Chardonnay
Stunningly precise and fresh Chardonnay, very Chablis-esque. The vintage worries many, but this wine was perfectly clean and not a trace of smoke to be found. 91pts.
2018 The Glories No. 1
A blend of CA and Oregon Chardonnay that quite frankly blew me away. Complex aromatics that draw you in. Harmony in the balance of acidity, fruit, and some reductive notes that bring layers of complexity to the wine. Wood is used, but judiciously and it’s done perfectly. Couldn’t wipe the smile off my face with every sip of this one. Expensive, but I bought it anyway. 95pts.
2018 Antica Terra Ceras
Dry, hot vintage that delivers greater concentration to the fruit here, but likely trades off some ageability. Stunningly made and blended, which is a hallmark of all Maggie’s wines. Drinking very nicely right now. 92pts
2019 Antica Terra Ceras
A much cooler vintage of the same wine, and it showed. Much lighter in color and body relative to the 2018, but more perfumed, floral, and ethereal. This was my preference, and the higher acid here suggests it’ll have a long aging life ahead too. Loved this wine. 94pts
2016 Domaine de Courcel Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens
I was looking forward to tasting this as a comparison to the Ceras, but found that the wine suffered from some premox, smelling of stale raisins. Not completely flawed, it showed good balance and texture, but I couldn’t get past the oxidized notes, so I’m withholding a rating.
2019 Isole e Olena Cepparello
100% Sangiovese, medium body, bright fruit like cherries and floral aromatics surround the wood. Enjoyed this wine, but found the finish to be cut short, oddly. Still, very good wine. 90pts
2013 Lillian Syrah
Back to Maggie’s wine and this was outstanding. Bought a bottle. Aged perfectly, this leans much more toward northern Rhone style while still having the phenolic ripeness you’d expect from California, but never sweet. I believe the grapes come from the Bien Nacido vineyard. I’ve had bigger wines from BN, so it really shows Maggie’s touch here that she built a more restrained and highly structured, immensely ageable Syrah here. 93pts.
1961 Lopez De Heredia Gran Reserva
One of the more unique aspects of Antica Terra is its “collective” offering, where guests can add a taste of some truly rare bottles from around the globe. When I saw the ‘61 LDH on the board, I had to try it. The wine was spectacular. Still tons of life in it, particularly the acidity which was all there. The fruit gave a whisper and then it was all about soft, Pinot-like floral aromatics that I’ve never experienced from Tempranillo - I suppose that’s all the aging. What a special wine, and a great Father’s Day gift. 96pts.
Bergstrom
We tasted in the Bergstrom home and the site of their namesake vineyard. Stunning views of the Dundee Hills here with beautiful flower and vegetable gardens too. The home belonged to Josh Bergstrom’s parents, and was originally where they planned to retire, but a surprise visit from Dick Ponzi led them to plant vines in the backyard and one thing led to the next.
We tasted four current vintage (2020-2021) Pinot Noirs from Bergstrom - the best from me was their Bergstrom Vineyard wine, which showed both great concentration and balance. It was very good, but perhaps not enough for me to pick up a bottle (but it was close). The thing that did get me to buy was their Sigrid Chardonnay, which could well pass for a far more expensive white burgundy. Some small bites were provided with the wines, each delicious. A serene experience with views to die-for.
2021 Bergstrom La Spirale Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge
The first of the Bergstrom lineup was a touch closed, and may need some time to loosen up a bit. The wine was good, don’t get me wrong, but just didn’t deliver the kind of rich aromatics as others we experienced in so many other wines of this vintage. 89pts, but I could see this one potentially move up with some either air or bottle age.
2021 Bergstrom Le Pre du Col Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge
This was quite good and had more of the full flavors and complexity I’ve come to know from Ribbon Ridge. Didn’t knock my socks off either, but a very well made wine that showed well despite its youth. 91pts.
2020 Bergstrom Silice Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains
A lot has been said about the 2020 vintage and this was the only red wine we tasted from the vintage. I went in with an open mind. There was something about this wine, what seemed like an upfront reductive note you’d more typically find in chardonnay… smoke influence? Perhaps. I’m not totally sure. It wasn’t totally off putting, but not to my preference either. It wasn’t bitter, wasn’t ash-ey, but there was something on this one that I can’t say I’ve tasted in the Chehalem mountains in any other vintage from other producers. I’ll reserve judgment on this one and consider it an enjoyable study in a challenging vintage. Hearing the various ways each winemaker dealt with 2020 was inspiring, and showed the immense creativity of some of these winemakers (more on that later).
2021 Bergstrom Vineyard Pinot Noir
This was my favorite among the Bergstrom lineup. Maybe it helped that we sat in the Bergstrom dining room overlooking these exact vines (and the view!)…. This wine just felt so much more alive and aromatic in the glass relative to some of the others we tasted. Enough structure to age for a decade or longer, but still absolutely enjoyable right this moment. 92pts.
2020 Bergstrom Sigrid Chardonnay
Another 2020 I thought, interesting. The Sigrid is Bergstrom’s flagship Chardonnay, built with a nod to the old world, Burgundian whites. And they nailed this wine. It’s clean, mineral driven, with awesome texture and laser-like fruit and acid to punch in for some mid-palette fireworks. ageable, absolutely. Expensive, especially considering some of the other incredible Chardonnays we tasted next, but we bought a bottle of this one to go. 94pts.
Evening Land
A few days ahead of our trip Evening Land staff called to ask if we’d like to experience our tasting out at the Seven Springs Vineyard (instead of the Dundee tasting room). Yes please!
Seven Springs is full of hills, with grapes at several elevations producing some really outstanding Pinot and Chardonnay (with a little chenin that is likely to be replanted in the coming years). Wind sweeps over those hills, and despite the sun exposure, it can get chilly quick there! Lots of biodynamic practices going on without being overly dogmatic about things, which speaks to a commitment to absolute quality and sustainability.
We couldn’t have asked for a better host in Chris, who made us feel right at home. The “garage” may not be your billionaire’s showroom tasting facility, but it sits atop the vineyard and provides stunning views below - this is the kind of place I want to drink wine.
2021 Evening Land Rose of Pinot Noir
A wine coming from young Pinot vines at Seven Springs. The wine is full of bright acid and complex flavor. It’s a rose built to be a rose and it’s great. Sad to see this potentially leave the lineup, it absolutely deserves to be made and serves a role here. 90pts.
2016 Evening Land Blanc de Noir Sparkling Wine
I didn’t realize Evening Land made a sparkling wine, and I learned that soon, they won’t be, as they’re clearing this one out. It’s too bad, because I thought this was really wonderful. Riddling and bottle work was all done by the fine folks at Ultramarine. The wine has depth and character likely from some bottle age, and the acidity is still going strong. Bubbles are fine, and very champagne like. I bought a couple of these, and keep wondering whether I should get a few more. A nice surprise. 92pts.
2019 Evening Land Passetoutgrain (Gamay and Pinot blend)
Another wine leaving the lineup for future vintages, this one felt like what you get when a brilliant sommelier is part of the winemaking team (Parr). I’m even more sad to see this one go. It’s awesome. A mix of Pinot noir and Gamay that gives a nod to old Burgundian practices. I absolutely loved this wine and had to get a bottle. At the same time I could see how most consumers, even relatively experienced ones, might not understand it and marketing it could be a challenge. 92pts.
2021 Evening Land La Source Pinot Noir
This was my favorite Pinot from Evening Land. Exceptional fruit from a flagship vineyard, made to preserve acidity and structure in the wine. Some new oak here adds spice and helps with that structure, but everything is in check (not overbearing in the least). Showing well even at a young age. 94pts.
2021 Evening Land Summum Pinot Noir
Very similar to the La Source with the structure taken up a notch. More new wood here too. Gives the impression it really wants a decade or more of bottle age, and it may very well go much longer than the La Source…if you’re patient. 93pts.
2021 Evening Land La Source Chardonnay
Great balance here with high acid matching the oak, delivering on that Burgundian style so many aim for. Reductive qualities here show on the nose and are quite welcome in the wine. A very strong showing. 92pts.
2021 Evening Land Summum chardonnay
Again, lots of similarity to the La Source, but unlike the Pinots, I preferred the summum Chardonnay over the La Source in 2021. Similar qualities, but a touch more reductive notes here and laser-like acidity and fruit that suggests this has load of aging potential. 94pts.
2009 Evening Land Summum Chardonnay
Chris discovered a handful of old 375s of their 2009 Chardonnay (storage conditions uncertain), and, as an experiment, we decided to see how these held up. The answer: beautifully. One might expect an over the hill flabby wine considering both the age and the small format bottle, but this wine was alive and well. Acid had subdued some, for sure, but this is still an awesome wine and makes you excited to buy and cellar these wines new. 93pts.