Just took a chilly walk around the lake with my wife and two Goldens, brisk pace in 45 degree, windy weather. Sorry to rub that in, you Northerners! So of course, I need a hearty red to warm us up!
This 2013 Yvon Metras Beaujolais is a total gamechanger for me. Easily the most unique, natural expression of Beaujolais that I have ever had. I was hooked from the nose alone. The color, first, is baffling: hazy/cloudy, ruby, translucent dusty pomegranate. Never seen a proper, young wine of this color. The nose is very fragrant, citrus fruits, florals, game, earth. Sheer texture, light-to-medium body, delicate but underscored by some vicious acid, pink grapefruits, tart carnberries and broth (saline). An interesting juxtaposition of underripe fruits at 11% alcohol but lip-smacking sweetness to the tart fruits. Blind, I would have guessed some geeky, natural, Jura red, sorta like I did that 1999 Thunder Mountain Cab Franc that Tooch blinded me on last weekend. I’m drooling to try the higher-end cuvées now. I would score a distinctive wine like this ridiculously high.
Also enjoying a 2014 Clos de la Roilette Cuvée Tardive, a perennial favorite of mine. Is there ever a bad or even average year? Young for sure, been following for a few nights just to see what I have, to determine how much deeper I go. Always an easy buy of 4-6 given the QPR nature of this wine. The 2014 delivers. So fundamentally different than the Metras. Rounder, deeper expression of dark fruits, meat and minerality. Not as thrilled with the nose, still quite primary, grapy, with a carbonic thing going on. I’m sure it will integrate, but not on par with the palate. Drinks more like a Moulin-a-Vent than a Fleurie, a powerful wine.
I haven’t opened a 13 Metras yet so thanks for the note. I remember when I poured the first glasss of the 12 Bojo and thought WTF it’s a rose but oh it was so much more. Sounds like I have even more to look forward to with the 2013.
Speaking of private moments, my wife just made me watch The Intern with Bobby De Niro. I better score some points or something else for that 2:01 hours of my life . . . .
And BTW, Rene Russo looks pretty damn HOT at 61.
Or, maybe these 11% wines are getting me in touch with me sensitive side . . . .
I love Metras too…and unlike many in CT I’m a fan of his 2012’s. My comment on his wines would be that I ALWAYS decant for sediment and unlike many other wines I’ve found that his wines really need 60+ days for the super-fine sediment to settle into the bottom of the bottle. I always store his wines at a 45 degree angle as it allows me to drink them as soon as I want with the sediment settled a bit more. if you need to get some of the top tier bottles I’d check out Crush in NYC. They always seem to have a good selection…and I’d check out the possibility of grabbing a magnum as these are wines that I want to check in on in 20+ years. I think they may even out-perform many (more expensive) village level Burgs in that time.
This wine still never ceases to amaze me. The coloration appears almost rancid, cloudy, spoiled. Not pretty in any sense of the word. Even the palate teeters on the edge of chaos, but seems to walk it back right at the brink. An incredible melange of sweet, tart and sour, saline, meat, citrus, florals and feral, all at the same time. I’m not really sure how to describe this wine other than saying it’s quite unique.
I decided to pop this wine after drinking last night’s 2012 Dutraive. WHile this Metras is a whole 'nother level - and I acknowledge some might say the opposite direction - I also saw some similarities in lightness, fragrance, coloration and low alcohol, lean tartness.