Remember, Kevin has a very modern palate and tends to rate highest very powerful, high alcohol wines. So, it may depend on whether your palate aligns with his.
On the other hand, there are 2003s that are maturing much better than I ever thought possible. My Burgundy group will be doing a 10 year anniversary tasting of 2009s in the fall, so it will be interesting to see how they are doing.
I discussed the potential of white 2003 with many producers during a visit in march 2006.
Many, including Pierre Morey and Bonneau du Martray, thought that their luxurious wines would however age very well.
Last Saturday, I had an opulent excellent (17/20) Germain Meursault Charmes 2003 (magnum), aging like an excellent Chave Hermitage …
A month ago, an excellent Dauvissat Chablis Forest 2003.
Howard,
Why do you keep on insisting that I prefer high alcohol wines? I like a wide range of wine but I really don’t track % alcohol. BTW, in no way the 18 resembles the 03, although ripe, they are fresh and show no sign of the 03 ripeness.
This is my consumption in 2019, frustrating.
• Burgundy 54.8%
• Bordeaux 12.7%
• Champagne 8.2%
• Rhône 5.5%
• Loire Valley 1.4%
• Alsace 1.2%
• Jura 0.5%
• Southwest France 0.5%
• Provence 0.2%
• California 5.0%
• Virginia 0.2%
• Piedmont 2.9%
• Campania 0.5%
• Tuscany 0.5%
• Friuli-Venezia Giulia 0.2%
• Germany 2.9%
• Mosel Saar Ruwer 1.4%
• Rheinhessen 0.7%
• Nahe 0.5%
• Rheingau 0.2%
• Austria 1.4%
• Castilla y León 0.5%
• Catalunya 0.2%
• Lebanon 0.2%
• Douro 0.2%
The issue for the 2003 reds (in Burgundy) is different with potential tough tannins …
Kevin,
It would be interesting to have, for Burgundy, the statistics for :
2003 reds
2003 whites
2009 reds (I read that Rousseau Chambertin and CSJ performed, I have them in my cellar)
2009 whites
Several winemakers made the comparison to me, one completely unprompted. So I think comparisons arent unwarranted. These were also the most open wines I’ve ever tasted from barrel, which suggests bigger and more alcoholic wines, though I freely admit I’m hardly the most refined barrel tasting palate.
I haven’t tasted with you or read your notes generally, so make no comments as to your palate other than everyone has one.
Thanks again for the write up on this thread.
_Bourgeuil Lamé Delisle Boucard : 2018 wines by the barrel … concentrated, very ripe, balanced, excellent.
14,8° alcohol.
Never seen before in the ages for this family domain.
How will these wines age ?
I had there an idea of how the ripe 2005, 1976, 1964, 1959, 1947 and 1911 did …_
Over the past 15 years or so, you and I have been to a lot of the same wine tastings in the DC area. I have enjoyed being there with you and tasting the wines, sometimes at the same table, sometimes at different tables. Often, I have then seen you post detailed tasting notes the next day or so on this board. My perception is that quite often you rate more powerful, plush wines with higher alcohol higher than you rate more elegant, integrate wines. For example, and this is just an example, you seem to like a lot 2003 and 2009 Bordeaux, whereas I have found many of the wines from these vintages to be too low in acidity for me and not sufficiently fresh for me.
I don’t really care. As I have said in other contexts, you can prefer the wines you prefer. I tend not to believe in “objective” ratings, that almost all wine ratings reflect the taste preferences of the person doing the rating. I was not criticizing your preferences; rather, I was merely pointing out my perception of these preferences to someone who seemed ready to buy 2018 Burgundies based on your recommendation. If he likes the same wines you do, he should go ahead and buy them. But, if not, he may want to wait until he has a chance to taste some of them himself.
To be clear, I was in burgundy in May - that’s what my reactions are based on.
Although, some of the 03s have improved, there is a hint of prune. I also agree on slightly dry tannins.
Kevin,
Same problem with 2003 red Bordeaux, with very often some dryness in the finish (I am looking forward to tasting the opulent and controversial Pavie 2003 soon : both balance and ending).
I recently had a perfect sensual Rousseau Clos St-Jacques 2003 in Paris at l’Astrance (200 euros, same price for the wonderful Clos Ste-Hune 2003, very affordable).
Clos de Tart 2003 tasted blind with my best friends, imagining a solar prune/fig spicy Châteauneuf.
I also twice could not drink the Rousseau Clos de Bèze 2004, so earthy (and ladybird).
I’ve tasted with Kevin dozens of times and never found him to be a sucker for high alcohol wines, or wines that display high concentration. What I have found him to be is open-minded about a range of styles. He calls them like he sees them. A couple of years ago we tasted a bottle of 2003 Pavie blind. I called the wine blind. We both agreed that it was quite a beautiful bottle of wine, with silky tannins, well-integrated (but high) alcohol, and appealing secondary aromas. It had a Rayas-like presentation. We agreed that it was the best bottle of 2003 Pavie we tried, and also agreed that we had prior bottles that tasted like cough syrup and were borderline undrinkable. Other times we have had very low alcohol Bordeaux and Barolo that Kevin has rated highly.
Just as one data point, Howard, Kevin, and I were all at the Chateau Lagrange vertical that Panos organized a couple years ago. Kevin rated the 2002 and 2004 Lagrange higher than the 2003, which seems contrary to the notion that he prefers super ripe vintages.
I agree here. I have tasted with Kevin more than a few times. He has a wonderful sense of what he personally likes and doesn’t give you the opinion of another taster repackaged. I don’t think you can say he loves only higher alcohol, extracted wines. Same goes for modern style. He might like one of these wines at times but the wines are always well integrated and interesting. He is always quite frank with his opinion about what he likes. I find it refreshing. He has a great palate.
BTW, some of the very best Bordeauxs I have tasted have been 2003s. The 2003 Latour is an absolute stunner. You would NEVER pick it out blind as a 2003 if you had preconceived ideas.