First wine memory

I’ve seen a few posts around the first Eureka moment with wine; that moment where the angels congregate and sing in unison the praises of vintage, farming, winemaking and time while one becomes heady with the sheer grace of that magic bottle.

But what about your first moment? What is your oldest recollection of wine in your life?

I was recently talking to a friend about my father and our regular trips to France while a was a youngster. As we were returning to Canada to see family and friends, France was a logical (obligatory?) stop on our way back. It brought back a memory.

My parents had made friends with a lovely French woman who lived in the south of France. Her parents had a summer home in Masmolène, not far from Avignon, where we would often be invited.

Her father had a picturesque cellar, the kind you automatically envision when thinking about an old country cellar: a stone staircase in the garden would lead into a dark, damp cave with an earthen floor. Amidst the cobwebs would be stacks of wine bottles with handwritten markings. There was a small bottling station and a few casks and barrels lying next to it. As a 7 year old kid, this was as close to Merlin’s laboratory as I would get (until later in life where I actually was invited to a sorcerer’s den in Bénin).

My father, who was a Bordeaux and Burgundy drinker, started acquiring Rhône bottles and sharing in casks with our friend’s father who would keep “our” bottles in a corner of the cellar he reserved for my dad.

One summer, as we normally did, we flew in to Paris and drove down to Masmolène. On the way down, we would often stop in villages to purchase some food for picnics. My dad would always grab a bottle of white or Rosé and then the hunt for a quiet spot with a stream or river would begin. I remember this would often test my patience as hunger would gnaw at my young stomach. But the spots my parents found were always ideal. We would park the rental car where we could and walk down to the selected location and setup for our picnic. The bottle was carefully placed in the water, normally lodged between large rocks so the current wouldn’t whisk it away. That was our ice bucket.

We would eventually reach Masmolène to see our friends once again. That one time, I went down to the cellar with my father and our friend’s father. Our friend’s father, would start by showing my dad what he acquired for him while we were away and this was the first time I remember hearing words like Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Gigondas. They were spoken with almost deference. My dad let me choose the bottle for the night’s dinner for the first time. I remember thinking I was part of the circle. I was in this dark cellar, with the two elders and they would trust me to touch those bottles and actually pick one up. Pride. Joy. Magic.

I chose a bottle, gave it to my dad and we made our way up to the house and dining room. That one night, our friends had gotten andouillettes and they were cooking it in their huge indoor fireplace over a fire fed by ceps de vignes and sarments. I will remember that smell for the rest of my life. It was the first time I had andouillette.

We sat to dinner and my father let me taste the wine. I don’t remember what it tasted like. I had a 7 year old’s sip of it. I probably tried acting like an adult and proclaimed it was great. My dad and our friend’s father tried the wine. There was no dissecting the flavor profile and long winded description of that wine. My father and our friend’s father simply looked at each other and nodded approvingly.

That is what I like to remember as my first wine memory.

And then you wonder why I got into wine…

18 Likes

Great memory, evocatively written as well. Mine goes back to Lancer’s and Mateus rose, and the occasional bottle of Zonin Lambrusco I would bring to high school keggers instead of beer. Not quite as interesting.

1 Like

I’m sure there are plenty of incredible stories about those high school keggers though!

Back in 1970s Britain wine for my father was Burgundy or Bordeaux. There would often be a bottle of both on the table for Sunday lunch. My father would ask me which I preferred, and it was always the Burgundy. I have no idea what the wines were, or how heavily adulterated the Burgundy was, but I always picked it out. 50 years on my preferences are still heavily skewed towards classic French wines. I suppose that reflects all those early years of practice.

3 Likes

What a beautiful memroir! Thank you for sharing! Mine is framed by an Italian American family setting in the 1970’s Bay Area. My father always had jugs of Gallo White and Red Burgundy in our pantry. They came out each night during our obligatory family dinners of us eight. He always let us children have a glass from a young age. And I remember enjoying the red. I recall that Parker scored that wine an 85 at some point! But for a more revelatory wine experience, I would have to fast forward to a Christmas I spent in a small village in the Alpes-Maritime during law school years. Friends of my then girlfriend prepared a marvelous spread of holiday savory treats, and we drank various bottles of Rose Cremant and Champagne. It was wonderful and the cold mountain air sharpened my senses and somehow defeated the expected next-day hangover. This is what makes wine so magical - the association of memories and glasses of Dionysus’ elixer.

2 Likes

Great recollection written beautifully and evocatively. Thanks!

My own first memory is more prosaic: I recall on our family’s first trip to France that we visited a vineyard in Burgundy (can’t remember which, I was 5). Down in the cool cellar of limestone rock our host drew samples from barrel with a long pipette. The owner (I presume) looked at my dad with a silent question, and my dad nodded. I got some, and like you, Phil, felt like I was suddenly included in something very grown up. I can’t recall much about the wine except that I liked it!

1 Like

I may have told this story before.

My family were not teetotal, a glass of Bristol cream perhaps once a month, and my father enjoyed an occasional glass of whisky with his friends.

He was a sugar merchant, and at that time was closing a deal with Bass Charrington, the beer people. Instead of a restaurant, he decided to bring the buyer to the house. The guest was a large, self important man, with a high reedy voice. He was also the architect behind the recent purchase of Chateau Latour and a bit of a wine snob.

My father goes to the local wine merchant, and talks about the special guest, and that he would need something equally special. The merchant sold him a bottle of thirteen year old 1955 Haut Brion, but then suggested he serve it blind. Horrible decision.

So my father packs up the bottle, and that evening wraps a napkin around it, and greets his guest. He does mention he plans to serve the wine blind. I go into the kitchen (not turning on the light) and see our guest going into the dining room, look under the napkin, and return to the drawing room.

At dinner, the wine is poured, and the performance begins. The reedy voice, slightly high pitched now has a certain excitement to it. He lifts the glass examining the color. A few seconds of silence, and then lifts it to his nose and takes a long noisy sniff.

“You have done us proud, this is a fine, fine wine”. Another noisy sniff. “Yes”, fine indeed. I will begin with the obvious, although a blend, it is not Merlot heavy, so we can rule out the Right Bank.” My father nodded sagely, like me not understanding a word. He moved on, speaking on for three or four minutes before he had eliminated the Medoc, and moved cautiously to the Graves. It did not take him long to dismiss Leognan which meant he was now looking at three or four chateaux in Passac, and then it was down to two La Mission and Haut Brion. He hesitated a little here, deciding this was too elegant for La Mission, so it must be Haut Brion…

Finally the vintage, a good year and around ten years old. “Ah! I think it is most likely the 1955 Haut Brion”. My father congratulated him, and moved on, not realizing had this been real, it would have been quite a feat.

I may have extrapolated some of the homily from what I know now, but I will always remember the voice, the certainty, the triumph, and the let down. It is interesting that several years later, Roahl Dahl wrote a short story, “Taste” with a similar plot, although the stakes were much higher.

8 Likes

My bris. The wine wasn’t very good

1 Like

I posted about this a few years back in a different context. . .

Circa 1972, at the Du Barry restaurant on Newbury Street in Boston over a dish of frogs legs. Jacqueline and I had been seeing each other for a several months, and my dad invited us to meet him in Boston for lunch. I remember that the dish was a little scary, but surprisingly delicious. My dad ordered a bottle of Pouilly-Fuissé to drink with the meal. My first French food and my first “serious” wine (i.e. not Ripple, Boonsfarm, Mateus, etc.). Seemed very sophisticated to me at the time, something maybe beyond my reach, but also worthwhile aspiring towards. How time flies and things change.

Cheers, Phil!

1 Like

Great, evocative story.

I don’t remember the details, but over 60 years ago, I knew I liked Louis Martini Mountain Red better than Budweiser, Lowenbrau or Bacardi.

A year later at the Monday night poker game, my freshman year in college, a guy won a pot, threw a dollar at the player old enough to buy the wine and said “Next week, buy the gallon of Gallo Zinfandel instead of the Gallo Burgundy; it’s a buck more and it’s worth it.”

I then actually tasted the Gallo Burgundy in my cup, and a week later the Gallo Zinfandel. The light bulb went on. In those days, the gallon of Zinfandel (IIRC $3.99) was probably 100% old vine Sonoma juice.

Dan Kravitz

6 Likes

I hadn’t thought of Lowenbrau in ages! It brought back this memory of the crappiest of diddies that would play on Quebec TV:
Lowenbrau QC commercial

1 Like

yes, I’ve read that story.

2 Likes

The very first would have accompanied a blessing over wine at a family dinner on a Friday night.

My first taste of wine was almost certainly would have come from a grownup’s glass at such a dinner or nipped at a chaotic Seder. Like David, I can report with confidence that the wine was not good, though I have no memory of it.

There is a myth/claim/belief, which may or may not have any statistical basis,*/ that Jews are less likely to become alcoholics than other groups. If true, I wonder if it can be ascribed to the early, regular and generally pleasant associations with its use.

*/ Gene helps Jews resist alcoholism

2 Likes

and you didn’t walk for a year after.

My dad kept a jug of gallo hearty burgundy under the sink for cooking. I snuck a pour. Let’s just say it is a wonder that I developed an interest in wine.

1 Like

I want to see this in the POST YOUR CELLAR PIC thread

1 Like

Golf clap Dr Weinberg!

My family business was womenswear. My uncle Sandy was Bill Blass importer and there was a period of time 60s & 70s where if cloth had that label he had a hand in it.

Big guy, 6’3 or so and pushing 250. Was a Green Beret and black belt. Not my blood uncle, just my dad’s bestie.

Anyway he liked me and I’d get to go to business dinners in Manhattan starting before I was Bar Mitzvah.

He liked HB Blanc and old Piedmonte. When I saw the scene where Micheal smokes Sollozzo and the police captain that shape bottle always seemed very period legit.

2 Likes

My dad kept a gallon of Gallo Cream Sherry in the garage and drank it out of a coffee cup. I became very familiar with that smell. Not all wine stories are happy. I eventually realized he was an alcoholic, but at least he was dry for the final 25 years of his life and saved his marriage.

Years and years ago. My mother didn’t drink but she would have a bit of wine now and then if we had company over. Being German, she didn’t drink much wine at all, but when she did, it was Riesling. When I was about six or seven, she let me taste some and I fell in love with it. And then we had some guests from Europe stay with us and they brought a bottle of this stuff they called Tokay. It was brown and weird looking but my father said we could taste some of it and I thought it was one of the most interesting things I had ever tasted.

Fast foward a dozen years or so and I’m playing softball out in the park one really hot Saturday in August. We thought we were all cool and had convinced the local store owner to sell to us even though he knew we were under age, but he didn’t care because a dollar was a dollar. Later I found out that he sold hashish out of his store, which is why the regular stock never seemed to move. But I had a few bottles of Boone’s Farm. Puked my guts out and swore I would never touch wine again as long as I lived.

But eventually I remembered that first taste and how much I loved the sweet/sour notes of the old Rieslings and that Tokay. Still love those.

1 Like

I remember my mom and dad drinking burgundy and Chablis from large gallon jugs of Almaden!! That was my first introduction to wine in the late ‘70s and early 80’s, 30 years go by before I get back into the wine game when I had my ahah moment, A 2008 Kosta Browne Sonoma County Pinot Noir gifted to me by my new brother-in-law Dan Cozzo. That’s when my new hobby began

2 Likes