FIFTEEN YEARS AFTER: 1996 Barolo Retrospective

WINE TALK
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FIFTEEN YEARS AFTER
1996 Barolo Retrospective

At last I’ve been able to carve out the time from the insane year-end work schedule to collect my thoughts on this tasting, which was hosted at the humble environs at Mount Nebbiolo early last month. The overall impressions of the wines – in a vintage sense – is perhaps best summed up with a few key points:

  1. As we pass the 15 year vintage birthday, a large portion of the Baroli are just turning the corner toward early peak drinking windows, while a majority of the Barbaresco have been in this excellent stage of development for the past couple years. Tertiary nuance expression is blossoming in the majority of wines, but the bigger of the vintage remain in need of at least 5 additional cellar years to hit their apogee
  2. Oak treatments have largely been absorbed in many of the modernist ]As alluded to above, the wines were almost all single decanted in the AM, although a couple (Carobrico & Rinaldi?) which were double decanted back into their original bottles.
  3. If drinking any of these now, my suggestion is Slow O-ing for the day at a bare minimum, and preferably a single decant 6+ hours prior to serving into a narrow diameter decanting vessel. The idea is not to over oxygenate, but rather, infuse just enough O2 to awaken the slumbering giant. You’ll need to decant them anyway for purposes of separating off the sediment, which was present in every wine we tasted, so this early morning ritual will serve two purposes.
  4. The vintage lives up to the hype, but, I remain unconvinced that simply on the merits of its age-worthiness that the wines are somehow “better” or superior to their counterparts from other recent great vintages like ’99.
    As alluded above, the wines were almost all single decanted in the AM, although a couple (Carobrico & Rinaldi?) were double decanted back into their original bottles.

Nebbiolo 1
paired w/ assorted salumi & cheeses

1996 Prunotto~Barolo~Bussia Monforte d’Alba
Bussia Soprana Cru
I’ve long thought this, along with the ’97, was the last great vintages of Prunotto where the thumbprint of Beppe Colla was still evident on the wine and prior to Antinori’s transformation of the house style into a softer, earlier maturing style. Here the Bussia comes shining through with pungent, earthly sotto bosco, cedar and red cherry liqueur melding into an intoxicating cornucopia. Firm and classic, a heft of tannin still holds on and the overall balance is just lovely. A long, great future lays ahead, drink now and over the next 15+ years. 92+

1996 Borgogno~Barolo~Storico-Liste Barolo
Liste Cru
Since the ’96 and ’97 first started appearing in the US market nearly a decade ago I’ve considered this bottling to be Borgogno’s finest and once again that belief was validated. Expressing an intoxicating matrix of morello cherry, anise and balsam pine, with time in the glass this literally detonates with its dynamism. Refined, elegant tannins and a beautiful balance of fruit and acid make this a very successful effort. Liste continues to fly under the radar, but those who have will be very pleased. Another superb Liste bottling on the par with the 2001, but lacking the seductive ripeness of the legendary ’97. No need to pull corks, the future here is as long and promising as the finish. 93+

Nebbiolo 2
paired w/ salumi and roasted brussel sprouts w/ pecans & white truffle oil

1996 Allesandro Brero~Barolo~Poderi Roset
Verduno, Monvigliero Cru
For me, this remains one of the sleepers of the vintage, but alas, this bottle suffered from marked TCA. Shame, shame. Not to be deterred, day before New Year’s Eve I opened another bottle (single decanted and SO’d for the day just as the wines for this tasting were handled) and everything I anticipated was there and rocking!. Hailing from the northern fringe of the appellation, this is a superb expression of Verduno, with the stature of a gentle giant. A sensual dark cherry elixir underpinned with a chalky minerality, anise seed and dried roses, the density of fruit is magnificent, yet it takes on a certain weightlessness on the palate where one encounters stunningly sophisticated T & A. Unfortunately quite poorly distributed in the US and increasingly hard to find. 95

1996 Scavino~Barolo~Carobric
Castiglione Falletto & Barolo, blend of Rocche di Castiglione Cru, Fiacso Cru & Cannubi Cru
The initial aromatic impression was atypically laced with cocoa, if not to dominance, but with ten minutes or less in the glass the chocolate note vaporized as classic Nebbiolo notes came shining through. The blend of Cannubi ripeness with the structural aspects of Rocche and Fiasco play point/counter point as one spends time with this lovely bottling. Showing more classicism than I frankly expected, this is a very complete expression of Nebbiolo, firm and tannic, yet the tannins are not overly drying as one might expect. I can only imagine how ethereal the Bric del Fiasc from this vintage is going to be. 93

1996 Giuseppe Rinaldi~Barolo~Brunate-Le Coste
La Morra & Barolo, blend of Bunate Cru & Le Coste Cru
One of the more controversial wines of the night, mostly attributable to its level of VA, which frankly shouldn’t be unexpected for the venerable house where VA seems to be more routine that I believe it should be. Deeply, darkly nuanced to a point of surprising ripeness, black cherry, violet, plum and a healthy dose of forest floor make this a very masculine Barolo. The palate too is surprisingly rich and amply fruited, so much so that it seems to mask the acidity and gripping tannin. More power and less finesse, if not a brooding hulk in need of at least 5 additional years of cellaring to early peak. One has to wonder how problematic the VA is with this bottling. 94 for me, but I’m sure others feel that’s overly generous.

Nebbiolo 3
paired w/ grilled fillets & super decadent scalloped potatoes

1996 Altare~Barolo~Vigneto Arborina
La Morra, Arborina Cru
Coming off the funky VA-laced Rinaldi, this delivered the goods in every department with stupendous varietal enunciation, intensity, balance and the elegance of royalty. A virtual masterpiece that on this night easily dances toe-to-toe with the other giants of the tasting, if not laying down some moves the others couldn’t match. Absolutely packed with excitement, like the Rinaldi here the fruit is super ripe, yet clean and pure and flaw free, punctuated with bright, fresh acidity and the sweetest, ripest tannin imaginable. There’s not a hard corner to be found, yet the sense freshness, vibrancy, complexity and power make it hard to put the glass down. To call this a masterwork would be understated. 97

1996 Clerico~Barolo~Ciabot Mentin Ginestra
Monforte d’Alba, Ginestra Cru
I recall others finding this more expressive and enjoyable than I, but any way you cut the cake this was the most reticent wine of the tasting, clearly in a slightly stingy, closed down mood. That said, with ample twirling and swirling this giant emerged from the glass, if only for a fleeting moment to reveal another Clerico magnum opus. Dense layers of dark cherry fruit play counterpoint to accents of eucalyptus, licorice, menthol and cedar ebb and flow, this is classic Ginestra at its finest. I’m inclined to suggesting continuing to hold out for another 5 years or so before beginning to pull corks on this precious stone, the wait will be worth it. 95+

1996 Bartolo Mascarello~Barolo
Barolo & La Morra, blend of Cannubi Cru, Cannubi San Lorenzo Cru, Torriglione Cru & Rue Cru
I apparently liked this a good bit more than a number of other attendees, but for me, the unique aromatic expression of Bartolo’s Barolo, complete with its signature minty, herbal tea note, is part and parcel to its allure. Perhaps we could have picked a more finesse driven flight to place it with, but in truth no matter it Flight mates it still would have stood out as the most delicate, intricately woven Barolo, weightless Barolo of the night. This is a highly ethereal wine that is perhaps best savored on its own terms, but on this night I found it showing no lack of sensual allure. It’s just a good thing we didn’t pair this with the Monfortino flight. Well along its development track and certainly in the its early stages of prime drinking. Should go the distance. 93

Nebbiolo 4
paired w/ classic papardelli & fresh shaved tartufo bianco d’Alba

1996 Giacosa~Barolo~Falletto
Serralunga, Falletto Cru
Arrrrgh, corked! Frick, frack!

1996 Massolino~Barolo Riserva~Rionda
Serralunga, Rionda Cru
After a long string of unexpressive, closed down bottles over the past 5 years, it would appear the Massolino Rionda 96 has emerged from its shell in a serious way. Everything about this is Serralunga, from its sense of power and structure, to the expression of its dark, mineral infused fruit, layered with balsam, baking spices and a ferrous-like quality. A monstrous Barolo with many layers of personality, ever-changing and morphing in the glass, if you’ve got this in the cellar and you’re passionate about traditional, classic Barolo, you’re going to be very happy over the coming 15+ years. This feels like it’s just now in the most infant stages of maturity, stay the cellaring course and be rewarded in spades. Mack Daddy! 96

1996 Conterno~Barolo Riserva~Monfortino
Serralunga, Cascina Francia Cru
The much anticipated Monfortino did not disappoint, rather it delivered in all dimensions. In classic form the overall cut is built on a framework of dark, deeply ripe, massively endowed Nebbiolo layered with black cherry, black tea, dark chocolate and a veil of lilacs. Stands out from the pack like an anvil perched atop the dining room table. Packed with muscular fruit that could easily dominate, yet none of the individual elements never loses its sense of purpose or proportion. Of all the Barolo this night Monfortino likely has the greatest upside. Can it ever possibly rise to the standard of the legendary ’78? Only time will tell, but somehow I wouldn’t be a bit surprised. Double Mack Daddy. 97

In addition to the Barolo we had a lovely pair of '96 Champagne and a 1970 Croft Porto as the finale. Gracious thanks to all the attendess and their contributions, bith food and wine: Ashlee Rink, Brad Vanderpool, Jeb Dunnuck, Craig Beal, Paul David & Paul Faraci! For myself THE Tasting of 2011 and we had a number of whizz bangers, not the least of which was the 2001 Ten Years After Barolo & Barbaresco Retrospective.

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Rico, I share your thoughts completly on the Clerico Ginestra. I opened my first of 3 bottles of this at age 10 and was absoutley blown away with its fruit, freshness, power and fantastic cut. I then brought my second bottle to Dave Dalluge’s backyard deck tasting this past October and the wine showed very much like you described. Closed, brooding, and almost “no there, there”. We all agreed this needed more time. Based on that showing, I have no trouble holding on to opening the last bottle for at least 5 more years.

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Great to see you posting Rico. Interesting that you mention Beppe Colla in context of the Prunotto. One of the '96s I have that I’ve been most antsy to check in on is the '96 Poderi Colla.

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Rico,

As always, fun and entertainig notes that give big vicarious thrills. Thanks! dc.

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Great notes of course, Cuzz! I hear Saxon is heading your way. Watch out!!!

I will disagree with this. I think 99, 01, and 04, are more balanced than 96, and will certainly give more pleasure in the next decade or two, but there is something about a huge, tannic brooding vintage like 96 (and 89) that to me makes the greatest Barolos. 06 may be a similar year, but perhaps without quite the consistency (or the Giacosa [cry.gif] ). I just hope I live to drink my 96’s at their peak!

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I don’t know that much about Barolo, but I like Barolo and love the Barolo threads on this board. They are really a lot like the Burgundy threads, but with a smaller group. They are about tasting notes, wines people love and people getting together. The threads are never about points and investment value.

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+1 on both the 1996s and 2006s. I have even more fears about surviving till the latter are in their primes.

But it sure isn’t hard to like the 99s, 01s and 04s!

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Nice notes,cousin.
I guess my biggest surprise was that the Clerico was found to be more reticent than the Monfortino…but certainly anything is possible on any given night.
I don’t know what to say regarding the 96s relative to other “stalwart” vintages such as 99,89,78 or 06…other than,IMO at this time, they retain their own identities and only with another decade passing can one realistically get into the meat of their similarities and differences…
Love me some Bartolo and Rinaldi,but you knew that! [cheers.gif]
Thanks for the detailed report!

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I’m 96 points on this! [welldone.gif]

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Yeah, I’m keeping an eye over my shoulder for Saxon. I don’t even know if I feel like the '99, '01 & '04 are more balanced, I’m simply saying that based on this tasting one wouldn’t come away with a hands down feeling that the wines of ‘96 out class these other great recent vintages. Sure, they may outlast the others, but is that the ultimate measure of greatness? Truth be told, a number of the middling producers’ '96s are hard a rock and a little hollow in the middle, but the guns we pulled for this afternoon did absolutely not disappoint! Rocks stars in every way, although I did feel a big puff of air settle out of my balloon when I stuck my nose in the Giacosa and realized it was hosed. I think if you’d been there Ken you probably would have broken down in tears…sad, very sad.

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Oh yea, well I’m 97 points on that, take that Professor! neener

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Couz, was very much surprised how forthcoming the Monfortino was, there I was prepped to get bitch slapped and instead found a big dose of Monfo love. BTW, it was the first bottle to get drained, News Flash!

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Thanks for the notes on my favourite Barolo vintage Rico. I have found the wines to be impeccably balanced right from the word go with great perfumes and terrific structures. I like 99, 01 and 04 very much but to my tastes 96 is just about the perfect vintage.
Best Regards
Jeremy

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Thanks for the great notes, Rico. Color me jealous.

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I have always hoped for sophisticated T & A to go with my Barolo’s, but it’s unfortunately all too infrequent…Oh… you mean you were using wine terms?

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Jeremy, long time my friend, hope all’s well! As I alluded above, in my now seemingly countless experiences with the 96s, the best of vintage capture those “great perfumes and terrific structures” you mention, we certainly found that in this particular tasting. The wines can be utterly spellbinding. Yet I have found a serious number of mid-tier producers’ wines where the austerity and lack of fruit make the wines very challenging, if not down right unenjoyable, hard and hardly forthcoming, even with the right foods. Poderi Colla’s Barbaresco Roncaglie & Marchesi di Gresy’s Barbaresco Martinenga come to mind as just two examples. I have a very difficult time imaging those wines filling in and fleshing out. I honestly believe wines in that catagory show greater overall balance in vintages like '99 and '01 and moving forward from there given so many winemakers having tweaked their winemaking, essentially improving it. I’m of the opinion that those vintages will show better in a broader sense of the wide spectrum of producers than '96. As a community of obsessed wine geeks it’s easy to focus on the best of the best, that’s what we seem to live to talk about and share, but I think it’s important to not overlook the overall accomplishments of the vintage and not just the greats. MTC.

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That’s an interesting observation about the lesser producers, Rick. It makes sense – there was a wider margin for error in years like 99 and 01, when the fruit was lusher. Frankly, I haven’t sought out the lesser producers in 96. :slight_smile: